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Cracked bricks on inner skin of solid wall


Porthole

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Hi there

 

Your help would be much appreciated on this one.

 

We have solid brick walls and the inner skin of bricks is cracked (see photos). How should the inner skin of bricks be repaired? The builder is using mortar to fill the gaps and then going to use Thistle Hardwall over the top then skim.

 

Should hairline cracks be filled with epoxy resin? How big a gap can be filled with mortar? I've heard that mortar shrinks so is this a bad idea?

 

Thank you very much once again!

 

 

 

 

IMG_20220131_202703 (1).jpg

IMG_20220131_202719 (1).jpg

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9 hours ago, Porthole said:

Hi there

 

Your help would be much appreciated on this one.

 

We have solid brick walls and the inner skin of bricks is cracked (see photos). How should the inner skin of bricks be repaired? The builder is using mortar to fill the gaps and then going to use Thistle Hardwall over the top then skim.

 

Should hairline cracks be filled with epoxy resin? How big a gap can be filled with mortar? I've heard that mortar shrinks so is this a bad idea?

 

Thank you very much once again!

I see nothing of worry, carry on. 

 

Just for information, if it was an issue, then "bonding" the cracks with mortar or epoxy would be futile. You need things like HeliFix to stitch cracks. 

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9 hours ago, Porthole said:

We have solid brick walls and the inner skin of bricks is cracked (see photos). How should the inner skin of bricks be repaired? The builder is using mortar to fill the gaps and then going to use Thistle Hardwall over the top then skim.

Assume the outer skin is outside in the weather?

A solid wall and they look old bricks so is the existing motar lime?

If so the wall breathes so the use of Thistle as it is a gypsum product will stop that.

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2 hours ago, Ajn said:

Assume the outer skin is outside in the weather?

A solid wall and they look old bricks so is the existing motar lime?

If so the wall breathes so the use of Thistle as it is a gypsum product will stop that.

 

Would echo this. Looks like lime mortar to me.  If its got no DPC you are likely to create new problems with regular motar and plaster.

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As above, the wall needs to breathe really.  If you can afford to loose the space, I'd batten and dry-line, incorporating a membrane and some insulation if you can.  It will make a big difference to the heat loss and risk of damp, and reduce the risk of hairline cracks in your new plaster.

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10 hours ago, Roger440 said:

 

Would echo this. Looks like lime mortar to me.  If its got no DPC you are likely to create new problems with regular motar and plaster.

Thanks for your reply - do you mean Damp Proof Course on the ground (apologies if this sounds a silly question - we're new to this)? The builders have put a membrane on the ground as new screed etc has been laid. There would just be original slate (I think) damp proof course in the old bricks themselves. Does that help? Thanks

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1 hour ago, Porthole said:

There would just be original slate (I think) damp proof course in the old bricks themselves. Does that help? Thanks

You need to check, slate is fine but don't be persuaded by any thoughts of damp proof injection if it hasn't. It's likely (the wall) been there a long time without problem just consider the implications of covering it.

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4 minutes ago, Ajn said:

You need to check, slate is fine but don't be persuaded by any thoughts of damp proof injection if it hasn't. It's likely (the wall) been there a long time without problem just consider the implications of covering it.

ok thanks 

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