Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Hi, I'm new to the site. I'm not a pro just a keen DIY'er. Been reading some great posts about bathroom installations on here. I'm currently building my first wetroom bathroom in my house, a complete remodelling project. Walls moved, joists strengthened, services re-routed, new bulkhead the lot.. Wetroom constructed using abacus elements inline showertray 1800x900 and waterproof (tileable) element boards and sealed with waterproof tape. All good so far. I'm going to be tiling wetroom tray and floor flush in porcelain tile. 800x400 tiles with envelope cuts to accomodate fall in the tray. Things that's bugging me a bit is the installation of the 10mm shower glass screen - Glass will be mounted from the corner of the wall using an aluminium F bracket so that glass sits out onto the tray surface. (You'll see in the photo by what I mean - as the shower tray sits within in a recess). Wall bracket has to be installed prior to tiling. Rubber seal set into the the bracket and glass to be inserted. Which I'm told will be very tight and tough to remove once in place. Which leads me to this next part. I also have an aluminium channel that's meant to be installed at time of tiling which is to be set into the floor and tiled to either side. Now I can see several issues with this. One of them being a massive ball ache getting that installed esp. with the wall bracket that holds the glass securely and then the faf with the tiles. I seen a post by someone on here in 2017 with a reply from 'NickfromWales' surface mounting glass directly onto the tile with CT1. I'm tempted to launch the floor channel and go down that route. Nick, How's the CT1 holding up - glass still secure? Other option that I am considering is to install glass first directly onto wetroom tray using CT1 then tile up to the glass and seal. But then I'll have a potential issue at the base of the glass that could leak in the future with that method due to the split in the tiled floor. I've also got a top mounted support bar to hold glass in place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Tile first. Then CT1 the base to the finished tiles. Imho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Onoff - tks for the quick reply. I'll go down the CT1 route. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 2 hours ago, Kevlar said: I seen a post by someone on here in 2017 with a reply from 'NickfromWales' surface mounting glass directly onto the tile with CT1. I'm tempted to launch the floor channel and go down that route. Not sure CT1 without a channel would look neat. We have ours in a channel glued down to the top of a tray. Looks OK been solid 13 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Temp - did you go for something like this in the photo? But rather than screws you glued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 This is the one I have atm but not keen on using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, Kevlar said: Nick, How's the CT1 holding up - glass still secure? My jobs are mostly for clients And yes, everything I’ve stuck in place is still in place. CT1 is damn good stuff, but you need to use / apply it correctly to get it to do what you need it to do. Edited January 12, 2022 by Nickfromwales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 3 hours ago, Temp said: Not sure CT1 without a channel would look neat. We have ours in a channel glued down to the top of a tray. Looks OK been solid 13 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) this may help and 'll be doing it soon too Edited January 12, 2022 by Vijay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) ?. Pics show CT1 displaced, then cleaned off with baby wipes. Tres bien. ? Edited January 12, 2022 by Nickfromwales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperPav Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 We've also installed a 1800x1400 glass screen directly onto a shower tray/tiles without a channel, with just clear silicone (not even CT1!) and always been fine. In my experience it's actually the channels and little return fillets that end up causing most problems whereas glass straight onto tile or a shower tray gives a very good fit. Don't think I'd be brave enough as the pic above to not have a top screen bracket arm to stabilise it though! Having said that, the OP's channel (the sunken in one) is the neatest solution I've seen if you want to separate the two tiled areas, but seems like a lot of effort when you could just omit it completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 19 minutes ago, SuperPav said: Don't think I'd be brave enough as the pic above to not have a top screen bracket arm to stabilise it though! Yes indeed. One was supplied by Porcelanosa , but the clients wife wanted nothing there for Uber minimalistic look. 3rd storey master en-suite and no kids so they just be careful around it. It was rock solid tbh, and iirc 10mm glass. If it was 8mm and flimsy I would have insisted on the stay bar or refused to fit the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Brilliant! Yup I'm sold, CT1 onto the tiles is the way I'm going to go. Thanks for the advice and it looks like a cracking finish! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Another question - off topic. I've got a 2 part bath panel, laminate finish which is adjustable for bath height (lower panel acts as a plinth on the base). I need to construct a timber frame to suit (which steps back 18mm at the bottom for plinth) and make the panel accessible for later use if required for services, shut off valves etc So, do I fix plinth and larger panel together acting as one panel, hold in place and just silicon around the four edges, cutting silicon at a later date for access. Or, should I fix lower plinth in place to the frame and use clips on the larger panel using something like Keku clips allowing me to pop the panel off. I guess I still need to silicon, so probably defeating the purpose of the clips. Also, I was going to use 100mm adjustable legs with rubber feet, normally used for furniture. Turn them upside down and fix/bolt through upper timber batton to support the bath edge. Is there something else that is designed for this specific purpose? I can see the adjustable supports are used in the off the shelf frame systems but these frame are no good for the two panel system I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vala Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) I did something similar to yourself but used an F shaped channel on the wall and floor. Had to install this all plumb and level and then tiled either side. If you're going to do it this way definitely clean the adhesive as it presses against the track and can cause it to pinch. I used 12mm toughened glass. Had it on some battens and whacked it with a hammer and block into the wall track, then using a suction tool pushed it down into the floor track, after removing the battens. It's very tight in the track, and seems to be very stable and plumb. Some photo's of the finished-ish result, This is the track I used Edited January 12, 2022 by vala 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevlar Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) Hi Vala, great job! That F bracket is very similar to what I've got for the wall. Did you have a full length rubber seal that was inserted into the bracket to hold the glass in place? Also the batton, was that to keep the glass up off the floor channel for install? Did you use a piece of timber held up against the opposite vertical edge when you whacked it into position? - As I reckon its going to be tight getting the glass into the channel with the rubber seal. Edited January 12, 2022 by Kevlar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vala Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) Hi @Kevlar There's no rubber seal. I spoke to Schluter about it when I was deciding how to go about it and they noted they never use it as the track has a specific internal size and you just get the glass accordingly. I went with the 12mm track so got 12mm toughened glass. I did pop a thin bead of CT-1 in the track prior to whacking the glass in, but tbh I don't think that was needed. Its very snug hence having to give it some pretty heavy whacks to get it in! Yes, I just used some roofing baton to rest the glass on, push it up to the wall track tight, and then proceeded to whack it in using the block and hammer. Once it went in all the way in to the wall track, I used a Grabo suction tool on the glass, and then just bounced on that to get it into the bottom track. To give you an idea ion the strength of the track, the glass weights 60kg, and after I had it in the wall track, I pulled out the batons and it just suspended itself there! Its very much fixed in there and would be a ball ache if it ever broke and needed replacing as I cut the last tile on the left to sit over the top of the glass, but hey ho. Cross that bridge if I come to it! You can just about see it in these pics, Edited January 12, 2022 by vala 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 I’m not a fan of going sub-tile-ranian, but that is a nice end result. I’m too much of a fan of keeping the water up out of the floor to ever go with that floor channel, as capillary action will deffo draw water down into that regardless of how tight the fit. If the glass will slide, there’s enough gap for water. May be ok ( for me ) if the floor channel was loaded with CT1 first, which was then duly displaced, but that’s one new trick this old dog won’t get his head around any time soon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vala Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 11 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I’m not a fan of going sub-tile-ranian, but that is a nice end result. I’m too much of a fan of keeping the water up out of the floor to ever go with that floor channel, as capillary action will deffo draw water down into that regardless of how tight the fit. If the glass will slide, there’s enough gap for water. May be ok ( for me ) if the floor channel was loaded with CT1 first, which was then duly displaced, but that’s one new trick this old dog won’t get his head around any time soon!! I see what you mean with 'if the glass will slide, there's enough gap for water. I did put a bead of CT-1 but it definitely didn't displace all out once the glass finally went in. On the walls and floor I went with epoxy grout and packed it right upto the glass before siliconing over. Only edge this couldn't be done on is the inside of the shower area as the track is at the edge of how the shower tray slopes down to the gap at the back for the drain. I'll get a tight bead of CT-1 pushed into this and hope that helps. Maybe wishful thinking is the UFH underneath will help it dry out?, not helpful in the summer time though! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 I wouldn’t beat yourself up, as the tile adhesive is usually cementitious and impervious to degradation. The epoxy grout makes you a brave man and a good effort. Do try to ‘ram’ CT1 into every possible gap, forcing it in with your finger. Don’t panic about excess, as baby wipes get rid of it with zero effort ( just use lots of them once only ). Nice job regardless 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Just as an aside, hitting tempered glass on its edge with a block and hammer is a very bad idea … you can set up stress within the glass that will shatter it at a future point. If you need to get glass into a rubber seal then use a good water based glass cleaner, spray the seal liberally and the glass will slide into the seal. If it doesn’t, then you can use silicone spray on the rubber but it is harder to get it off the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vala Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 (edited) 34 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: I wouldn’t beat yourself up, as the tile adhesive is usually cementitious and impervious to degradation. The epoxy grout makes you a brave man and a good effort. Do try to ‘ram’ CT1 into every possible gap, forcing it in with your finger. Don’t panic about excess, as baby wipes get rid of it with zero effort ( just use lots of them once only ). Nice job regardless Noted and added to the weekend's job list??. Had to go with epoxy for the mitred edges, read up that's the way with them. Then just thought, why waste a bucket, may as well slap it everywhere else. It doesn't half dry quick but the Kerakoll stuff isn't as bad as others to get off especially with their wash and soap products. Been told other stuff is a proper nightmare! Edited January 12, 2022 by vala Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 9 hours ago, Temp said: Not sure CT1 without a channel would look neat.. OK OK I take it back ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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