Stud walls before screed?

[eandg]

Any reason why you shouldn't put your stud walls up before pouring your screed?

[Conor]

That's exactly what we did. In hindsight, we'd do it the other way round as screed drying is now a limiter for us finishing off the house. Will take at least another month or two to be dry enough to fit the wood floor.

[MikeSharp01]

Nope, provided you provision for it, you need to keep plaster board above the screed line and you are happy that the screeding costs will rise. as its a more complex job.

[eandg]

16 hours ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Nope, provided you provision for it, you need to keep plaster board above the screed line and you are happy that the screeding costs will rise. as its a more complex job.

 

Thanks - everything a compromise I guess. We'd have about 20mm from top of the screed to underside of plasterboard. 

16 hours ago, Conor said:

That's exactly what we did. In hindsight, we'd do it the other way round as screed drying is now a limiter for us finishing off the house. Will take at least another month or two to be dry enough to fit the wood floor.

As above, it's a programming/cashflow issue and whether it's easier to rattle the first fixes and acoustic insulation done or UFH and screed - as it stands leaning more to the former particularly as we may be waiting on confirmation of any RHI replacement before getting ASHP in. We're going with LVT flooring which I think will be one of the last things that goes in so should hopefully work okay. 

[crispy_wafer]

I've been following a flowscreed company on facebook, they regularly post pictures of work they do, nearly all of the pictures are new build and the screed is getting pumped in with the stud wall framework already in place.

[BenP]

I don't think there is a right or wrong answer TBH - in our case the internal walls were put up as they were part of the 'stick built' timber frame solution. 

 

It has indeed made screeding more dificult and some of the airtighting details are more complex than if we had put the walls up after screed and VCL! But having all walls up and done was more valuable to us. 

[kxi]

Does it also depend on what the internal stud walls sit on and the floor build up under that thing?

I.e. If your stud walls are sat on a concrete slab with no insulation under it (because your insulation was going on top of slab under screed) then you've got a thermal bridge through the floor.

 

Also raised at 'the other place':

Quote

 

I assume you have the TF kit sat on the floor slab, you will then be installing insulation and screed around it?

 

If that is the case, if you don't dryline first, you will need to provide timber noggings between the studs in order to stop the screed pushing the dpm or whatever into the stud voids and to pic up plasterboard edge support.

 

If you dryline first, then this is not an issue. It is also easier to detail the vcl/dpm/dpc lap and junction for air tightness if you drylin first.

However, either way is possible.

 

I must warn you, however, If your consruction is as above, with the kit sat on the slab, you must be really really really really really careful of the internal load bearing and non load bearing walls. If they are sat on the slab, when you install the insualtion and screed they will be burried below internal finished floor level. If you ever have a leak or something like that, water can pour down into that trench formed by the timber frame. Because the timber is surrounded on three sides by dpm etc, then the moisture cannot easily disipate and can quite easily stay there for an extended period of time. This can lead to decay of the timber sole plates and bottom of the studs. Bad news if it is a load bearing wall.

 

 

http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=4254

[SteamyTea]

2 hours ago, kxi said:

Also raised at 'the other place':

Timber is a man well worth listening to.  Not sure if he still posts.

 

One advantage of pouring after the studs are in, is that the cast area is smaller, so probably less chance of shrinking causing cracking.  Just put a break in by all doorways.