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Afixing doorframe/architrave


jamiehamy

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9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

For second fix carpentry, 

This nice little compressor 

&

This 16g Brad ( second fix ) nailer would serve you well. 

 

Hmmm.... been hanging my nose over this (just because I like orange boxes...) Paslode

 

But that's £37 beer money saved ..!

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8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

FFX seem competitive 

16g

 

edited to add : air is far more pleasant to use IMO. 

 

I agree, much lighter to use and the smaller body makes precise placing simpler. 

Ive got one of these and its been used heavily and works fine: Link 

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34 minutes ago, Barney12 said:

 

I agree, much lighter to use and the smaller body makes precise placing simpler. 

Ive got one of these and its been used heavily and works fine: Link 

Again, that's a pin gun not a brad nailer ;). 18g nails are extremely fine and great for hardwood and oak etc, but for a good purchase on softwood / MDF I wouldn't go for anything other than 16g.

If your fixing fire doors then I doubt pins alone would suffice as the lining is subject to 30 or 60 minute rating too. Pins would probably suffice if your routinely glueing the full length of the material, but they are very fine with very little 'head'. 

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Quick fit said a non joiner could do this in 20 minutes...took me 2 hours. While pretty pleased with the result I think this system is really designed for retro fitting existing doors.

Pack comes with door, 2 linings/ standards, pre routed for hinge and door plate (exactly same width as the door they are) and 2 x trim pieces....no trim for the head.

I'm fairly happy with the result as the door fits perfectly and the hinge and striker look great being factory made.

Not as good as a pro job though.

IIMAG0910.thumb.jpg.413e3af9e11cf6a4eefc4520c8af0b73.jpg

 

I also bought a standard door lining kit, so 72 for door, 12 for lining kit and 13 for the handle. 97 squids!

IMAG0909.thumb.jpg.51aeb2d4ff9efb0213c72ec11f07e9fb.jpg

IMAG0908.thumb.jpg.6b761d99d67488d3751da6a63079df55.jpg

 

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I'm a bit confused as to why the door isn't wide enough for the lining, and what is going on with the head? I think this door is designed to go into a 50mm metal stud wall with 12.5mm PB each side, hence being so narrow. 

With the surrounding timber work painted white though, I think you'll get away with that no probs. :). I do like the hinges. 

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