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Stopping timber from warping


ProDave

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This relates to my thread about long handrail spindles

 

The first 2 were a success so I have bought another 5 lengths of this planed timber with a finished size of about 35 by 45mm and just over 4 metres long.  Each will be cut to make two 1.8 metre spindles.

 

I got the only 5 straight ones out of the rack at TP.  I bought them home and I have laid them on the floor clamped together and weighted down.

 

My plan is to leave them like this for some time, in a vain attempt to stop them becoming a bunch of bananas.

 

Will this work, will it persuade them to stay straight, or will it just delay the inevitable and they will just bend like a spring when unclamped?

 

If it is likely to work, how long should I leave them clamped like this before using them?  If it won't work, anything else that might?

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I would put slithers every so often between them known as sticks to allow air to circulate, raise off floor and leave for a couple of months if in a heated space, longer if I heated and clamped and weighted but allow air to circulate with them restrained nicely, five clamps 

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The answer depends on the quality of the wood and from which part of the tree the wood is cut. The closer to the centre of the tree, the lower the risk of cupping , warping, bending and twisting.  Quarter Sawn is the phrase you need to look for.

  • Lay flat
  • Sticker at even spacings - using clean evenly cut wood (paint,  for example, transfers to the sticker to wood very easily)
  • Place the stickers at even intervals vertically
  • Cover with a sheet of OSB or similar to keep some direct sunlight off
  • Weight the sheet of OSB evenly
  • Try and ensure a steady airflow over the wood
  • A little damp makes no difference
  • Wait ; year or so easy.....

And watch some of it bend, warp or twist anyway. But if you follow the above, then there will be a good deal  more straight stuff worth using.

 

I had over £1000 worth of Siberian Larch waiting outside for a year, or more. Covered and stickered properly. Little bits have warped here and there, one or two bananas.  Whizzed through a thicknesser, it's come up beautiful. Bent grain has made the last meter of 4 meter boards deviate by 20mm in a few planks. 

The same treatment for scaffolding planks repays the effort.

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In my experience if you buy wood that has warped in store it will keep warping.

 

Best trick I've found is to run it through the table saw and glue the bits with the curve back to back. Not ideal though.

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16 minutes ago, Temp said:

In my experience if you buy wood that has warped in store it will keep warping.

That's why I bought the 5 straight ones and left the bananas for someone else to fight with.  I am hoping that these have been there a while (probably not a common or high demand size) so the fact they are still straight was a good sign.  They were in a covered but unheated and well ventilated shed at the merchant, now they are in a dry warm house so giving them chance to acclimatise to their new surroundings.

 

Also does painting them with woodstain and effectively sealing the surface help or hinder the chances of stopping them warping?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Buy shorter timbers, they are less likely to warp. Plus go to a proper timber merchants that can machine the edges square and true. Yes i know you can buy ready planed timbers, but a proper machine shop will put the timbers over a surface planer first to get 2 straight/square edges and then through a thicknesser to get the opposite edges parallel. 

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Well an update.

 

I bought the wood from where I could find something suitable.  I have searched the area and visited loads of timber merchants and non really inspired me.

 

After about 3 weeks clamped together I unleashed them, and made 4 more spindles from the straightest ones. the rest I cut roughly to length then clamped them together in shorter lengths for another week.

 

All now made and fitted and all seem straight, though one has twisted slightly.

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On 11/11/2021 at 13:36, Temp said:

Best trick I've found is to run it through the table saw and glue the bits with the curve back to back. Not ideal though.

That would be like sticking two bi-metalic strips together, back to back.

Isn't that basically what glulam is?

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