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Adjustment of doors


steveoelliott
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Hi Folks,

 

Coming back to an issue posted on an old thread

 

I had a carpenter recommended to me and had them take look... They adjusted the hinge positioning to move the doors away from stops as they were rubbing / catching on the hinge side when closed.

 

This has now been rectified but I am not convinced (I am a layman) of the method. The screws for the hinges are now at angles which I know will be to get bite into fresh timber. But is this the usual approach? Wouldn't one use dowels etc? On one door surround it has even caused the wood to split with the screw coming out of the timber.

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1 hour ago, steveoelliott said:

had a carpenter


I don’t think so!,! Rank amateur with tools!. I always use matchsticks or carve my own wood plugs when moving screws a little. Screws at angles is so wrong.

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I meet a lot of joiners / carpenters in my travels, but so far I have only met one i regard as good enough to work on my own home, and he did some of my kitchen fitting and jung some of the doors, which he made a very good job of.

 

I define "good enough" to work on my house as capable of doing a better job than I can, and it is saying something when a lot of the joiners I see I don't think can do a better job than me.

 

But just moving a hinge over by a few mm is a difficult job.  I would have altered the door stop and taken the hit on re painting after that,

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3 hours ago, steveoelliott said:

Thanks for your candid feedback... I think I need to find a different chap then.

You may still have to move the doorstop in the end. My guess is the new doors are thicker than the old ones.

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When I hang new doors I like plant on door stops (not machined into the frame.) hang the door first then add the door stops using a 1mm spacer between door and stop, people forget the thickness of the paint.

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43 minutes ago, Marvin said:

You may still have to move the doorstop in the end. My guess is the new doors are thicker than the old ones.

 

These are original doors that needed adjustment. I take the point that the stops could do with moving. If that is the only option then I'll take the hit on decorating as and when.

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Sometimes removing and refitting stops causes more work than is necessary though.

 

Looking at the images above, I'd wager the existing paint will not remain nice and neat on the liner when the stops are removed. Often it's the case they split paintwork when coming off, tearing bits of old paint that then requires shitloads of abrasion to flatten up ready for redecoration. That can even happen when you cut along joint line with a nice new Stanley knife blade, so it can be tricky.

 

Shifting the hinge isn't an entire bodge, but it should be neater than that. The small void left at edge of hinge can be filled with a good filler (hard but with some flexibility) and repainted, so you cant even see it has been done. Screw holes should be totally filled with timber dowel and re-sunk properly so they are perfectly flush to hinge surface.

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14 minutes ago, steveoelliott said:

 

These are original doors that needed adjustment. I take the point that the stops could do with moving. If that is the only option then I'll take the hit on decorating as and when.

Or, multiple coats of paint on the back of the stops!, scrape it all off and see it it’s better.

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30 minutes ago, Makeitstop said:

Sometimes removing and refitting stops causes more work than is necessary though.

 

Looking at the images above, I'd wager the existing paint will not remain nice and neat on the liner when the stops are removed. Often it's the case they split paintwork when coming off, tearing bits of old paint that then requires shitloads of abrasion to flatten up ready for redecoration. That can even happen when you cut along joint line with a nice new Stanley knife blade, so it can be tricky.

 

Shifting the hinge isn't an entire bodge, but it should be neater than that. The small void left at edge of hinge can be filled with a good filler (hard but with some flexibility) and repainted, so you cant even see it has been done. Screw holes should be totally filled with timber dowel and re-sunk properly so they are perfectly flush to hinge surface.

 

That would be fine... I figured this is the way it should be done rather than drilling at angles to get some bite into fresh timber.

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29 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Or, multiple coats of paint on the back of the stops!, scrape it all off and see it it’s better.

These have only had a couple of coats of paint... These are new frames as part of the refurbishment 10-12 years ago... They just sit very tight. I suspect whoever hung them didn't follow your practice Joe.

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