Sloped drive/ gates job.

[zoothorn]

On 22/09/2021 at 19:25, Onoff said:

I've a selection of stainless steel tubes here in different diameters. Happy to send you a length. I could even weld a big flat washer on top. It'd last indefinitely.

 

What diameter is the gate pin?

Ah didnt measure that  ( im away/ stress break/ more n'bour nastiness ) but i did measure my metal 2" tube.. 17mm inside dia, 21 mm outside. Grateful, zoot

[zoothorn]

On 22/09/2021 at 19:25, Onoff said:

I've a selection of stainless steel tubes here in different diameters. Happy to send you a length. I could even weld a big flat washer on top. It'd last indefinitely.

 

What diameter is the gate pin?

Hi Onoff. Just back & to do last bits/ finish this gate pin hole thing. The diameter of pin is 5/8" = 16mm.

 

Im not sure exactly what the idea is here: do I dig a hole, fill with concrete level with ground surface, then put a bit of tape or something over the tube end ( so concrete wont go up it ) then push  this into concrete, put pin down into it to seat its position, overnight-? Then the plate.. erm goes ontop after its set? I cant see what this is for tbh.

 

thanks zoot.

[joe90]

I would dig small hole, insert tube, hold in place with pin on bottom of gate, propped not to move, backfill with concrete/postcrete and smooth as per diagram, to stop water/crap draining into the hole.

[zoothorn]

On 29/09/2021 at 16:07, joe90 said:

I would dig small hole, insert tube, hold in place with pin on bottom of gate, propped not to move, backfill with concrete/postcrete and smooth as per diagram, to stop water/crap draining into the hole.

Hi John. Thanks alot for this, sorry only just spotted the reply. Been so blustery not ideal to keep gates firmly set to do this final job. 

 

So maybe put a bit of tape over the btm of the 2" long tube, insert into a 5" x 5" x 2" (D) hole filled with concrete ? I can nab a big handful of hardcore to mix with my cement & sand.. ithink this makes concrete. Maybe take out the big stones.

 

Then press plate on, smooth of edges off downwards whilst setting ? Im sure simplest job for you, but even this is not so for me!

 

Thanks zoot.

[zoothorn]

@joe90 John a basic question if I may..

 

Im still having trouble understanding mortar, concrete & esp the ingredients. As far as i know, for this small spot/ the pin going into etc like your diagram ( thanks btw, following this ).. i need concrete. I recall making concrete for my cabin pads, but cannot recall the ingredients, or ratios. I can recall we used ballast. Cement. Water. Bit of frostproof. In a mixer. But cannot recall if we used sand too ( & there are two types of sand.. & i have no idea which i have, ideally i forget the sand). 

 

Ok so I have cement, do have sand of somesort, bucket of nicked ballast, frostproof stuff. Googling gives me conflicting sand, ballast either/ or info, & gravel.. & Im lost.

 

Am I simply mixing 1:6 cement to ballast ( + splash of f'proof) ? Is the fine grit in the ballast there to act as the sand, so effectively it is a combination of gravel & sand?

 

Thanks, zoot

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 2021 by zoothorn

[PeterW]

4 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Am I simply mixing 1:6 cement to ballast ( + splash of f'proof) ? Is the fine grit in the ballast there to act as the sand, so effectively it is a combination of gravel & sand?

If the ballast is just a mix of fines and small stones then no sand required. If it’s very lumpy doing 3 ballast, 2 sand and 1 cement by volume will be fine. 
 

Use the frost proofer if you have it but not really needed in October !

[zoothorn]

22 minutes ago, PeterW said:

If the ballast is just a mix of fines and small stones then no sand required. If it’s very lumpy doing 3 ballast, 2 sand and 1 cement by volume will be fine. 
 

Use the frost proofer if you have it but not really needed in October !

Good timing Peter.. just diving in w' your info now. Thanks.
 

(October  now.. but january is round the corner though?) Anyway sorry for my stupidly newbie concrete Q's. The shame..

[Ferdinand]

I usually do these by putting a knocker-post in, then trimming it off at the correct height, and putting in a hook to the gate. You need to make sure it prevents the gate swinging in a dangerous manner (eg over the road).

 

The other item I have used to provide the hole for the monkey tail bolt to fix into is a normal brick with 3 holes set into the ground. May or may not work here.

 

Ferdinand

[joe90]

55 minutes ago, PeterW said:

If the ballast is just a mix of fines and small stones then no sand required. If it’s very lumpy doing 3 ballast, 2 sand and 1 cement by volume will be fine. 
 

Use the frost proofer if you have it but not really needed in October !

Wot he said ?

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

Wot he said ?

B'stard job. No idea howmuch water, so quite a soup.. then lost my pipe tube in the soup. Fell off the bloomin pin when i lowered the sod in. I did a huge great big swear echoed off the valley walls see.

 

I needed a shelf for me pipe to sit on. But used cocktail sticks jammed it to the pin to hold it elevated whilst it hsrdens.. hope it'll work. but what a bodge job! 
 

@Ferdinand thanks that post idea a better idea for holding the bigger gate in place, once open into the drive.. not doing another pin in soup job ever ever everererer again.

 

 

[zoothorn]

Stupidly overkill. Now its going off.. where does this 2" square plate thing go? Or am i too late/ leave the bloomin thing off.

[markc]

Does it have a hole right diameter for drop bar? If so it goes into top of concrete to keep the hole tidy

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, markc said:

Does it have a hole right diameter for drop bar? If so it goes into top of concrete to keep the hole tidy

It has a hole markc ideal for drop bar, but oddly not so the tube can pass through it. So as i couldn't dare put tube superflush into me 'crete, or crete would overflow into it p*ssing on me parade, ive set my tube just protruding above me 'crete, by thickness of the plate, & levelled a shelf for it. Just then to enlargen the plate hole so it'll fit over it. Prolly wrong idea, but couldnt think any other way.

 

[joe90]

@zoothorn thats fine, don’t sweat, it will work as it is, well done, it’s not a bodge job ?

 

(mixing small amounts of concrete is more difficult to get right than large amounts)

Edited October 6, 2021 by joe90

[Onoff]

Fill the tube ends with expanding foam is a trick for next time.....or a cork.....or anything you can dig out later. 

[zoothorn]

11 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Fill the tube ends with expanding foam is a trick for next time.....or a cork.....or anything you can dig out later. 

Hi Onoff. No but the pin needs to go in the tube, while it sets.
 

Hang on.. you mean stick the pin in, & adhere it to the tube, with foam? Anyway nevermind my matchsticks are holding, but its a bit on a squiff. 

[zoothorn]

22 minutes ago, joe90 said:

@zoothorn thats fine, don’t sweat, it will work as it is, well done, it’s not a bodge job ?

 

(mixing small amounts of concrete is more difficult to get right than large amounts)

Its gonna take me ages to get this concrete thing, all aspects. I mean for eg, my cabin pads.. very runny. My extention foundations i had a heart attack in a rain deluge that day when poured.. & the 48 hrs i fretted while jt set.. seemed to exist underwater. The postcrete.. experienced friend said ' oh just quarter bucke5 of water fine' for one of my posts with 3 bsgs of postcrete in.. leaving it looking a dry powder " ive done it hundred times " he said " dont poke it " was bizarre.. when he went I whacked in another bucket full & stirred it).

 

Just cannae get my noggin around it. I wish there was only one 'right' way to do it!!

 

[joe90]

26 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I wish there was only one 'right' way to do it!!

Don’t we all ?

[zoothorn]

29 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Don’t we all ?

Next projects involve mortar... woohoo! And wood. Oh fkaduck some concrete too.

 

Still waiting on the bloomin DG glass for window job, frame ready a month ago. Have to crack on with next mini project then.