Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 I happen to have lying around some 50 x 250....is this too much.... I could cut it down.....Thank you and Good morning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Cut them in half and go at 300mm centres. ? ☕️☕️☕️ ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) @Dee, i have to say that there should be 1:5 sectional detail drawings from the architect. this should all be drawn for you. by headers, do you mean the timber across the width of the opening? if so i'd go with a double 6 x 2, joist spacing at 6 x 2 at 600mm centres especially if the opening is 2.4m. joist sizing as a rule of thumb, 6x2 =12+1 gives a span of 13', rafters 6x2=12-1 gives a span of 11', this works for all sectional sizes. this doesn't work for trimmers/trimming joists simon Edited March 12, 2017 by Simplysimon last line 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 A quick update photo on the weekends progress. I'm getting building control intomorrow for his opinion before we go any further.... If anyone spots anything wrong or missing then feel free to comment.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 top front horizontal, two x 6x2 on edge, one at least, what's happening on the inside holding the old rafters? simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Top front horizontal in the photo is 2x4 but another one to go on top..... So will be 4x4. On the cheek rafters is a temporary brace.... is that what you mean? The front elevation is 2.2 with a 920 aluminium window and all that front sits on the steel you can see in the other photo. The corner posts are made of 2x4 and another at right angle Feel free to put me right! On 12/03/2017 at 18:21, Simplysimon said: Expand Top front horizontal to on the weekends progress. I'm getting building control intomorrow for his opinion before we go any further.... If anyone spots anything wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 unless 4x2's glued and screwed i'd turn 90deg and have on edge, different strengths. i didn't mean the temp brace what will you have supporting the upper rafter ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Upper end supported on brick wall with wall plate ontop (into attic) Did a bird mouth notch. See your point on rotating top timbers 90 degree, Haven't glued anything until BC have been to look NB... We bought the house with planning already granted so we're going with what we have, there are no sectional drawings of any great detail Edited March 12, 2017 by Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 sorry, i meant the, soon to be cut, upper ends of the rafters. have never taught cut hip roof by long distance before, suppose there's a first time for most things, you're about two weeks too early as i'm doing a cut hip roof and could have recorded it, but here goes - do you have a roofing square or do you have any experience of technical drawing? you will really need one method, i suppose laying it out on the ground full size is an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) Yes they will be cut off but ran out of daylight. Roofing square, yes. Technical drawing experience, no. This is the first project that is truly beyond me so it is husband who drives this one. Edited March 12, 2017 by Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 joiner/lecturer, i find it easier to draw it out to scale but it's the same thing with a roofing square, do you have the slotted timber hypotenuse for the square? what will support the cut ends of rafters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 No hypotenuse. Cut end of rafters? You tell me please ? This week I will be filling in the cheeks with vertical studs and the window elevation and making good the old roof (either side of the cheeks) with new felt and battons.... ready for working on the roof this weekend.... Please carry on advising when you have time, much appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Building inspection today and he was very happy with work so far!not a single issue... hooray! ..... Roof now completely gone and one cheek in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 On 13/03/2017 at 17:22, Dee said: Building inspection today and he was very happy with work so far!not a single issue... hooray! ..... Roof now completely gone and one cheek in. Expand Pictures. We like pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 good stuff, dug out a dormer detail from 30yrs ago, first house! dormer walls, 50x100 uprights @400crs with 50x100 top and bottom runnners, double uprights at window openings. 75x200 bridle joist at top cut ends of rafters, trimmers above windows were 2 x 50x200, if you were allowed 2 x 50x100, happy days. simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 @Simplysimon. We've done everything you did upto bridle joist? Could you expand on that please ? BI suggested cutting existing rafters off at top, vertically at bird mouth notch so they sit flush with front of wall plate, then some fixing for peace of mind. @ProDave. I'll post pictures tomorrow... Got too tired wrestling with huge tarps that have a mind of their own! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 On 13/03/2017 at 19:16, Dee said: BI suggested cutting existing rafters off at top, vertically at bird mouth notch so they sit flush with front of wall plate, then some fixing for peace of mind. Expand referring back to your pic yesterday at 13.38 the rafters have been cut and bridled, no birds mouth at top. when you support the ceiling joists with acrow props and cut the rafters, the ends will need to be bridled to carry their weight and the loads imposed on them. these loads are then transmitted to the outer rafters you have doubled up and then to wallplate, walls and foundations. are you using 4x2 or 6x2 for new ceiling joists? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Yes, using 6x2 for the ceiling joists There is a blue brick wall that separates a bedroom from the room that is being created by adding the dormer, The rafters that have been cut at head height, rest on the purlin in the attic above.... I cut them at the bird mouth notch that sat on the wall plate. . . . . . . . ( bedroom wall) Does that make sense or am I confusing everything? I'll post a picture tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 I'll get to the front elevation this week but I'm unsure how t deal with the window surround. I have an aluminium window 920mm wide, I know how to create the carcass opening but how do I 'dress' the opening when the window is in... I can't visualise it... I'll be using hardi board to clad the outside... Sorry for so many questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 you'll need a lead tray under the window, upstands at each end and returned up inside of window needs to overhang outside finish. i'm afraid you're confusing things, could do with some pics as rafters normally only cut with birds mouth at wallplate on ext wall, they normally just sit on purlin. haven't heard of hardie board. found it as cement fibre board for int use, is it the cladding? http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/hardielinea-cladding accessories on the page and i'm sure they would advise on fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 Quick update with photos..... The old rafters are yet to be cut flush with the wall plate as per BRegs chaps suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 I'll get to the front elevation this week but I'm unsure how to deal with the window surround. I have an aluminium window 1000mm wide, I know how to create the carcass opening but how do I 'dress' the opening when the window is in... I can't visualise it... I'll be using hardi lines weather board to clad the outside... Sorry for so many questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 Today's progress, cheeks up, lintel in and the start of the front elevation.... Noggins to go in but I'm waiting for scraps. Tricky getting it square and plumb but managed it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 nice work! The updates are brilliant as a resource for anyone else doing this in future. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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