painting woodwork - without leaving brush marks

[TryC]

Hi All,

 

I would appreciate any tips on how to paint woodwork - namely the stairway banisters, the spindle area and doors and door frames. I am painting it with the undercoat, and it is left unsightly brush marks. Is there a method to use to avoid these? I'm trying to get it as nice as I can for my mum...but I am crap at painting and general DIY. We were let down from a tradesperson so hence, why I am having to do this myself

 

Any tips would be appreciated.

[Russell griffiths]

You won’t get a finished product with undercoat, you will need to use a primer on the bare wood, then a coat of undercoat, then a very light sand down to get the details right, then another undercoat, then another sand and then two top coats. 

 

There is no short cuts to a good finish, no miracle one coat paint, it’s just lots of work and detailing. 

[TryC]

6 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

You won’t get a finished product with undercoat, you will need to use a primer on the bare wood, then a coat of undercoat, then a very light sand down to get the details right, then another undercoat, then another sand and then two top coats. 

 

There is no short cuts to a good finish, no miracle one coat paint, it’s just lots of work and detailing. 

thank you!

 

I actually have a tin with the primer and undercoat in it, and a separate top coat. I'll do what you suggest thank you.

 

Do I use the same procedure if I am painting over woodwork with paint already on it? A decorator who came in actually advised that I shouldn't have taken off the paint (on the woodwork I had already taken paint off) and said that I should paint over, sand, paint over sand to build up a layer.

 

Can I do this on the painted woodwork as above or is it best to take it all off?

 

Edited May 23, 2021 by TryC

[Russell griffiths]

Everything needs to stick to whatever you have, so every surface needs sanding and then cleaning to remove dust and any oil from your fingers or other contaminants. 

Prime all bear wood, undercoat, sand , undercoat, sand,undercoat, sand. 

Get the picture. 

[TryC]

52 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Everything needs to stick to whatever you have, so every surface needs sanding and then cleaning to remove dust and any oil from your fingers or other contaminants. 

Prime all bear wood, undercoat, sand , undercoat, sand,undercoat, sand. 

Get the picture. 

thank u!

 

What rate of sand paper would you suggest please?

[Jilly]

Rough sandpaper if there's no key, then when you get near your top coat finer stuff. Don't overload your brush and keep watching for runs and putting the paint back in. You may have to do a few coats to get a good finish. Find a paint that's not too thin and drippy (gloss is sometimes), the 'Once ' types have good opacity, but will still need to do more than one coat for a good finish. Also for finer work I would chose one of the brushes that look like a big artist's brush, they have a point and are much nicer to use than a square ended type.

Edited May 23, 2021 by Jilly

[TryC]

1 hour ago, Jilly said:

Rough sandpaper if there's no key, then when you get near your top coat finer stuff. Don't overload your brush and keep watching for runs and putting the paint back in. You may have to do a few coats to get a good finish. Find a paint that's not too thin and drippy (gloss is sometimes), the 'Once ' types have good opacity, but will still need to do more than one coat for a good finish. Also for finer work I would chose one of the brushes that look like a big artist's brush, they have a point and are much nicer to use than a square ended type.

Thanks Jilly! I am using the Valspar Trade Primer and Undercoat, it was recommended to me from the people at the orange shop. I am applying the paint with some Harris paint brushes, the ones that guarantee that it does not loose any paint bristles (this does guarantee doesn't seem to be worth a thing, as it lost bristles almost immediately when I used one of the brushes to apply sealer elsewhere!).

 

Is sandpaper at 140 considered rough?

 

Thanks!

[Vijay]

you can also use a mini foam roller for glass paintwork too on larger areas

[TryC]

Just now, Vijay said:

you can also use a mini foam roller for glass paintwork too on larger areas

thanks Vijay! I was thinking of using a mini foam roller for the top coat actually, not sure if that will go well ha ha.

 

I won't be painting any glass.

[Neill A]

I am a very recent convert to the Johnstones range of water based glosses: their Aqua range. The undercoat is simply awesome and the gloss pretty damn good for a water based paint. It dries quick with no real smell but has just enough time in it to brush out. Although a short fake mohair roller works best. Trick is not too put on too much of either undercoat or gloss in any one go and, paradoxically, don't overbrush it/stretch it out. If you do it loses its shine.

Existing painted wood, use rough paper, eg 40 grit to 60 grit. For keying surface of painted wood I use 60 to 80 grit. For flatting undercoat or between coats probably 120 grade. I wouldn't consider 140 rough at all.

For painting on top of varnish or lacquer try BIN 123 by Zinser: awesome methylated spirits based primer/sealer

Cheers

Neill  

[Vijay]

18 minutes ago, TryC said:

thanks Vijay! I was thinking of using a mini foam roller for the top coat actually, not sure if that will go well ha ha.

 

I won't be painting any glass.

 

use them for the undercoats too, makes life easier and no brush marks

[TryC]

55 minutes ago, Vijay said:

 

use them for the undercoats too, makes life easier and no brush marks

brill, thank u!

[TryC]

1 hour ago, Neill A said:

I am a very recent convert to the Johnstones range of water based glosses: their Aqua range. The undercoat is simply awesome and the gloss pretty damn good for a water based paint. It dries quick with no real smell but has just enough time in it to brush out. Although a short fake mohair roller works best. Trick is not too put on too much of either undercoat or gloss in any one go and, paradoxically, don't overbrush it/stretch it out. If you do it loses its shine.

Existing painted wood, use rough paper, eg 40 grit to 60 grit. For keying surface of painted wood I use 60 to 80 grit. For flatting undercoat or between coats probably 120 grade. I wouldn't consider 140 rough at all.

For painting on top of varnish or lacquer try BIN 123 by Zinser: awesome methylated spirits based primer/sealer

Cheers

Neill  

thank u!

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, TryC said:

I won't be painting any glass.

 

Typo, guessing he meant "gloss". Foam rollers for gloss.

[TryC]

21 hours ago, TryC said:

thank u!

btw, does anyone know if it is best to use a matt or gloss paint on woodwork?

I was recommended the matt paint, and I used it last night to prime/undercoat (it is a 2 in 1), but the end result looks very dull, and even to touch is not so nice.

 

it still needs another coat and sand before the top coats, but it just seems so dull and i think if u were to wipe it with a wet towel it would just come off?

[MrSniff]

Matt or gloss is a matter of taste, as long as it is designed for woodwork. For intermediate sheens there is eggshell and satin. Water-based paints tend to have a lower sheen than oil-based, but are less likely to discolour.

 

For water-based paints a very good quality synthetic bristle paint brush is needed, as is a very light touch for "tipping off", which is very gently running just the tip of the brush over the still wet painted surface to smooth out brush marks. Water-based paints dry quickly, but adding a paint conditioner like Floetrol can extend the "wetness" time.

[TryC]

13 hours ago, MrSniff said:

Matt or gloss is a matter of taste, as long as it is designed for woodwork. For intermediate sheens there is eggshell and satin. Water-based paints tend to have a lower sheen than oil-based, but are less likely to discolour.

 

For water-based paints a very good quality synthetic bristle paint brush is needed, as is a very light touch for "tipping off", which is very gently running just the tip of the brush over the still wet painted surface to smooth out brush marks. Water-based paints dry quickly, but adding a paint conditioner like Floetrol can extend the "wetness" time.

thanks for the advice!

 

The word to describe the paint I've used, the word has finally come to me...it feels like chalk and looks like chalk! a stick of unused stick but 1000000% bigger (hand banister sized).