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Advice on hole repair of metal roof


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Hi,

I need to fix a few holes on a corrugated aluminium roof on my shed. Can anyone advise the best way to go about it. Should I try and find similar aluminium, cut them up so they are oversized to the hole and apply them with some sort of roof sealant ? Or I have read about various mesh patches which you also use in conjunction with roof sealant ?

 

 

Many thanks in advance

 

 

 

 

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Is it aluminium, of galvanised steel?

 

You really need to replace the whole sheet, or how about the whole roof, or is it only a short-term fix. 

You'll struggle to find a profile to patch it, that matches exactly, unless someone is still making that sheet. and you'll have an edge along the top that the water will be trying hard to enter get in to.

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It's a shed, and while i am not saying the above is not right, 20 years ago a mate asked me about something very similar. He had no money, so basically i tapped them from inside and ouside to level them up as best i could. gave them a bit of a clean with a bit of sandpaper. squirted a tube of silicone around and through the holes from inside. Went outside, and smeared them almost to the profile of the old tin, but left the silicone a bit proud. Bought a small tin of that ruberised type roof repair, and daubed it over the outside. I have just rang him. Over 20 years later, he tells me it is still good, and has never leaked.

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Thanks for the responses.

 

It is aluminium.

 

It will be a long term fix ideally and whilst it may be at a stretch feasible to replace some of the panels I wouldn't consider all of them as it's a big shed ( 30 x 12 m ) it used to be for Turkeys.

 

Oversheeting sounds like an interesting approach, as that would potentially not disturb greatly what's already there. Perhaps I could then get them over sheets under the ridgeline cover.

 I totally get that the best way would be to replace the roof but that would cost a small fortune.

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if you don't care about the look, could you put a bit of torch on felt over the area?

 

Or can you bang it back into place and use ali welding rods to weld it back up??

Edited by Vijay
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16 minutes ago, pstunt said:

Not really that bothered about the look. I haven’t heard of torch on felt before but wi

l have look.

It's basically just roofers felt, that has the tar/bitumen on the back which they melt and then lay the felt. You can use a heat gun or plumbers torch to melt the backing

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https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-roof-repair-compound-grey-1kg/10990
 

 

I used above successfully. It has fibres in it.  Would agree you’d need to try to hammer split back to close it,  if you can, otherwise roofing flash and or similar just don’t leave a hollow fir water to pool.

if it doesn’t work it’s only like £16 and you can use it for future repairs.  Easier & cheaper than replacing if it does work.  
 

 use a disposable cheap paint brush.  Zero chance of cleaning it afterwards.

Edited by Bozza
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18 minutes ago, Bozza said:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/cementone-roof-repair-compound-grey-1kg/10990
 

 

I used above successfully. It has fibres in it.  Would agree you’d need to try to hammer split back to close it,  if you can, otherwise roofing flash and or similar just don’t leave a hollow fir water to pool.

if it doesn’t work it’s only like £16 and you can use it for future repairs.  Easier & cheaper than replacing if it does work.  
 

 use a disposable cheap paint brush.  Zero chance of cleaning it afterwards.

Sounds like it’s worth a go. Looking at the product there is a recommendation that it can be used on holes in metal corrugated roofs in conjunction with a fleece type material, the type you use to protect your plants from frost. I guess it’s purpose is to act as a support whilst the compound is wet.

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Depends how nice and how permanent you want the repair.

The  fibre and bitumen patching will work but look ugly. You have another hole nearby too. If you had a small piece of the same profile lying around, you could simply place it over and stick it down, and best self-tap screw too. 

Alternatively make a metal flashing to bridge over the damaged area, but that would have to go all the way to the ridge.

 

OR I would expect that to be a standard profile. Try the nearest agricultural cladding supplier. You would not have to change the sheet, just tuck the new one under.

You will need to have the profile info. Height of  the profile and how far between crowns.

 

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