Johnny Jekyll Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 (edited) We have 253mm posi-joists for our build, which will sit on the walls and therefore protrude above into the next row of blocks, so the next row of blocks will need to be cut/notched around them. We would like to use the Tony Tray technique, but to avoid trying to fiddle the membrane around the posi-joists and the notched blockwork, can anyone see a problem with bringing the membrane back in on the next row of blocks above? An overall flaw or perhaps a wall tie problem? See attached photos, hope it makes sense. Thanks. Edited April 11, 2021 by Johnny Jekyll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 tony likes it, which courses will the wall ties be in? where the inside if the tray flaps over the blockwork I pin or staple EML over it before wet plastering this works well at ceiling level or behind the skirting, slightly more concerned about a slip plane one course up and a crack developing. Escape route is to turn the tray 50mm down and fix 150 wide EML over it, 50mm of hermetically sealed to blocks above and below and anti cracking over it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Jekyll Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 19 minutes ago, tonyshouse said: tony likes it, which courses will the wall ties be in? where the inside if the tray flaps over the blockwork I pin or staple EML over it before wet plastering this works well at ceiling level or behind the skirting, slightly more concerned about a slip plane one course up and a crack developing. Escape route is to turn the tray 50mm down and fix 150 wide EML over it, 50mm of hermetically sealed to blocks above and below and anti cracking over it. Excellent thanks Tony. So the EML will hold it in place if using wet plaster. Haven't got the locations of wall ties yet. We may use an airtight membrane (e.g. Gerband or Intello) instead of parge or wet plaster, that's probably another question which I'd like opinions on. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Why not introduce 3 course of coursing brick above joists and brick it back in 300mm from bottom of joist, ie around top of chipboard level. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Thermal bridging, or use bricks with same U-value, different materials = potential cracking Ptrsumr tray goes over bricks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 I meant concrete bricks/brickette/clunkers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Jekyll Posted April 11, 2021 Author Share Posted April 11, 2021 Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 concrete commons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 = disastrous thermal bridging and cracking due to different materials in wall, plus nightmare to cut over top of floor beams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Have you built the wall yet?, what blocks are you using for the inner skin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Jekyll Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 Have updated my drawing further to Tony's advice. joe90 both inner and outer skin are medium dense blocks. Any opinions on parge coat vs wet plaster vs membrane for air tightness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 (edited) @Johnny Jekyll reason for asking type of blocks, aerated blocks can be cut by hand saw, scratch that one. ? Edited April 13, 2021 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 I turn the tray down or up 50 mm cover the edge with EML half on the blocks, half on the membrane and wet plaster to give hermetic seal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Jekyll Posted May 15, 2021 Author Share Posted May 15, 2021 On 13/04/2021 at 18:36, tonyshouse said: I turn the tray down or up 50 mm cover the edge with EML half on the blocks, half on the membrane and wet plaster to give hermetic seal. May I ask a question. Can you recommend a breathable membrane to use for the Tony Tray? A link to the product would be ideal if possible thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 I sent PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruggers Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 On 11/04/2021 at 16:46, tonyshouse said: Thermal bridging, or use bricks with same U-value, different materials = potential cracking Ptrsumr tray goes over bricks Are you meaning that using a grey concrete common brick for a course or two combined with solid dense blocks it will form cracks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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