JanetE Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 We are now at the stage of tiling our (many) bathrooms/en suites and would be grateful for some advice. When the plasterers boarded up around the Gerberit frames they cut large holes in the plasterboard to save them time. We're concerned that when we tile and hang the toilets there will not be enough support and the tiles may crack. Will we need to fill in the gaps at all or reinforce behind? All the frames are hard up against the plasterboard. I've attached photos of the four offending ones so you can see what the problem is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) That's crap if your loo isn't going to cover that hole. Cut PB off as high as tiling allows (hopefully to the nogs) and replace with ply or backer board with better sized holes. Ply prob be better in this scenario. Edited February 16, 2017 by Oz07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 It's only the 4th one that bothers me. That would benefit from some 12mm ply ( not PB ) with a hard setting adhesive such as PinkGrip. The weight transfers ( pivots on the bolts ) to the bar below the soil / pan connector with the upper section typically only ever seeing compression from the fixings. . Remember that the pan doesn't even touch the wall where your cutouts are so relax, pack No.4 a bit better, and take yourselves off for a vino. NOTE: For others approaching this point ( boarding ) just get a nice template that sits onto the pan connector and mark the other hole sizes & centres. Take the soil and flush plugs out and bung them or tape them up to protect the seals. Let your boarders just cut a 50mm cutout where the centre of the soil is and leave them board the wall WITHOUT cutting out for the various gubbings. Plasterers and boarders are great at boarding and plastering, but lack tools like hokesaws etc so don't expect any more of you leave them uninstructed otherwise. ( and sorry @JanetE as I can already hear you shouting "now he tells us!" ). Edit to add : mark a vertical plumb line on the face of the template so; 1) you get it spot on after boarding ( as you'll have no other visual reference ) 2) you don't use the template the wrong way around when cutting the holes later. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Re tiling, NEVER use ready mixed acrylic adhesive. Ever. Use a flexible powder floor / wall adhesive and make sure the tiles are buttered and the wall is full bed. Plumbers or sparkys diamond core drills will cut through later so up to you how brave you feel, but that's what I use for porcelain. Another cheat is to have two tiles meet at the centreline of the WC so you can nibble two semi-circles out of each tile accordingly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetE Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: It's only the 4th one that bothers me. That would benefit from some 12mm ply ( not PB ) with a hard setting adhesive such as PinkGrip. The weight transfers ( pivots on the bolts ) to the bar below the soil / pan connector with the upper section typically only ever seeing compression from the fixings ( and sorry @JanetE Maybe I'll forgive you Not quite clear what you're attaching the 12mm ply to?? Stick it on the front, tile around it? Stick it behind and fill the gap? Cut it to the size of the hole and attach some way??? Sorry if I'm being thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Watching this closely..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Only this one. Slip a small offcut ( x2 ) of 12mm ply say 80x80mm up behind the PB at the top, one either side of the white flush pipe. ( Screw a 6x100mm into the middle of each piece to make a handle so you can pull it tight against the PB ), then screw through the PB into the ply to make 2 ply patresses which are flush with the front of the blue frame. Cut a nice bit of 12mm ply ( 15mm may be better if the PB is 12.5mm and the skim takes the total thickness of the existing wall up to 15mm ), and make a piece that fills the top gap as best as possible. Apply a bit of neat PVA to the ply and your good to tile. Does that suit, Madame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Just now, Onoff said: Watching this closely..... Branches everywhere. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetE Posted February 16, 2017 Author Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Only this one. Slip a small offcut ( x2 ) of 12mm ply say 80x80mm up behind the PB at the top, one either side of the white flush pipe. ( Screw a 6x100mm into the middle of each piece to make a handle so you can pull it tight against the PB ), then screw through the PB into the ply to make 2 ply patresses which are flush with the front of the blue frame. Cut a nice bit of 12mm ply ( 15mm may be better if the PB is 12.5mm and the skim takes the total thickness of the existing wall up to 15mm ), and make a piece that fills the top gap as best as possible. Apply a bit of neat PVA to the ply and your good to tile. Does that suit, Madame? Got it! Thanks Nick, you're a star Edited February 16, 2017 by JanetE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 If doing this from scratch would it be best to perhaps introduce a noggin above the Geberit frame then moisture resistant plasterboard above and marine ply the entire area over the frame below? I'm not planning on plastering rather tiling the whole wall straight onto the ply / plasterboard. P.S. I've got a nice set of hole saws! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 I think that the main lesson from this is to ensure that your plasters use the bloody template in the first place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, TerryE said: I think that the main lesson from this is to ensure that your plasters use the bloody template in the first place! Chance would be a fine thing! I took the time to space all our socket/switch boxes on ply spacers (where they were on the service space walls) so that they projected out far enough for the plasterers to just put a sheet of plasterboard in the right place, give it a bang and leave an impression in the board for them to neatly make the cut out. I spent ages going around making good every box before second fix, using those plastic inserts that you just stick in the boxes and then use filler to get a neat and sealed hole (these things: http://s243691647.websitehome.co.uk/plasterguards ), as all the holes were just sort of hacked out................ Edited February 16, 2017 by JSHarris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I used 12mm Hardiebacker board but it's tough stuff and I got through a few holecutters! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Looks like I'll be using a couple of sheets of the 900x1200, 12mm Aquapanel I got for the wet room corner then! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 The yellow "plugs" in @JanetE's pics above.....I presume they're "smell" tight and in pretty tight too? I only ask as we've occasional "backing up" problems (involves me down the manhole with a shovel ) Once the loo's in you get fair warning of course. But with me it'll be a case of get the frame in, wall boarded and it could be a while before I tile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 They won't hold back a 'traffic jam', so don't assume so. They're just for protecting the seals during installation times, ( I'd be more worried about them breaking down with UV Ray's ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Don't worry our stacks have yet to be "christened". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Boarders are rough. They're too used to being on a price and having to throw them up. Did any of you have to buy a special waster adapter with those frames. The last one I bought didn't come with some kind of adapter I needed as waste was something like 80mm. Ended up ordering one of gerberit from Germany or somewhere on continent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 The ones we got from Megabad came with a 110 adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 3 hours ago, TerryE said: The ones we got from Megabad came with a 110 adaptor. That's the norm. All the ones I've bought ( even from different suppliers / makes ) have all come 'uk ready'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanetE Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 So I took a piece of OSB which was a bit bigger than the hole. Put a screw in the middle so I could hold it. Put some glue round and screwed it in. Left it to dry. Cut a piece of ply to fit the gap and glued and screwed it. How's that @Nickfromwales?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Roberts your mothers brother ? ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) Looks like we were lucky to have good tackers who only left the yellow fittings protruding from the board, the tiler then did a neat job so the pans fitted fine. Only area where we encountered the above issue was on our downstairs loo where we had splash back glass instead of tile. We were nervous of the pan biting onto the glass so had a decent margin around the pan in the glass template - however this now meant the bottom of the pan would bite onto the pb so we had that section removed and replaced with 12mm ply. All worked fine and I colour matched a sealant around the glass. I've not sealed around the tiled WC pans yet though - looks neat as it is but I guess I'd better do something before long. The yellow bungs are best left in until fitting the pan, as well as protecting the seals, they prevent odour coming out of the foul system - we noticed this after leaving the downstairs one off for a day or two, was not pleasant. One last tip, do you have your flush plates on hand? if they are the clip over variety then your tiler does not need to be super neat around the opening, however we bought the flush variety and didn't realise that they needed a tiled in surround to work until after we'd tiled two rooms. Got the necessary surrounds for the other two and did a swap to get clip over plates for the already tiled ones. Edited February 20, 2017 by Bitpipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 3 minutes ago, Bitpipe said: if they are the clip over variety then your tiler does not need to be super neat around the opening If your gap around the flush plate 'sleeve' is 4-5mm or more, the cuts may well be on show. . I got caught out on the first one I did and had to pull the tiles off and re-cut them. Hadn't grouted them thank feck. Cut them neat, and tight ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Just now, Nickfromwales said: If your gap around the flush plate 'sleeve' is 4-5mm or more, the cuts may well be on show. . I got caught out on the first one I did and had to pull the tiles off and re-cut them. Hadn't grouted them thank feck. Cut them neat, and tight ?? Agree, by 'super neat' I meant within a mm which is what you need for the flush variety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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