Conor Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) We have two box beams with 15mm plates welded to the underside to take the floor joists for the mezzanine. It's 6m long and need joists at 400mm centres, and another section about 2m long. Notlooking forward to drilling all those 6mm holes. I only have a cordless drill, I'm thinking I'd need to buy a higher rpm corded drill and a big box of bits? Any other suggestion? (First image is actually of the plate that will take the bifolds, but you get the idea) Edited February 25, 2021 by Conor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 How are you looking at fixing them? Really should have vertical plates welded to the box sections to fix to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 3 minutes ago, markc said: How are you looking at fixing them? Really should have vertical plates welded to the box sections to fix to Think I'll check that with the architect, this was his design and I'm only now thinking about how to go about it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 39 minutes ago, Conor said: Think I'll check that with the architect, this was his design and I'm only now thinking about how to go about it! Good idea, technically the joists could just sit on the shelf, no fixings and be stabilised with noggins both ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 I'm guessing it's for some other design purpose that the architect/SE used univeral columns rather than universal beams where the joists could either be notched into the flange and braced with noggings at the ends or face fixed on packers within the flanges? I'd go with @markc that you could probably just use noggings between the ends of the joists bearing onto the welded flange, but I guess you'd want some prevention of potential uplift. Otherwise, you could bolt timber plates to the side of the universal columns and then use normal joist hangers. Hopefully your architect or SE will clarify this for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Fit joist hangers to a timber ledger and nail the ledger on with Hilti? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 I like notched in so joist sits on steel with noggins in between 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted February 25, 2021 Author Share Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) Architect says set the joists on and use nogins to brace them together. Span is only a metre anyway. there's chipboard then liquid screed on top. I'll screw every other joist in with a 6mm screw just to be sure. Edited February 25, 2021 by Conor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Sounds good to me. Top of timber joist wants to be 10mm proud of the steel beam to allow for shrinkage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 23 hours ago, Mr Punter said: Fit joist hangers to a timber ledger and nail the ledger on with Hilti? That's what we did. Filled in the sides of the I beam and fitted joist hangers. Near/under our Thermal Store we used hangers with long tails that went over the top of the I beam and down the other side. Nailed both sides. Not going anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Hilti gun noggins as @Mr Punter says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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