Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Hi We've got a large picture window in our single storey extension (which was built around 18 years ago). There was a decorative sacrificial timber above the window on the outside which I removed today. I wanted to put spacers in so that it wasn't butted up tightly to the wall, so that the water would drip before reaching the window and running down the glass. Anyhow, I expect to see a stone or concrete lintel behind the wood but instead there's a row of bricks. Didn't seem right to me but then I don't know much about such things and so just wanted to check it out. There seems to be a DPM between the two rows of bricks. And there's some big gaps as well where there's no mortar between bricks. Do things look in order or might I have a problem with this? Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Is that just a steel lintel which has been rendered underneath? All looks fine. Plenty of bearing either end. I think the vertical gaps are weep holes, so leave them as gaps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 Thanks Mr Punter. Yeah, I can see what you mean RE the weep holes. On reflection the gaps are so empty that it seems obvious they were left like that rather than anything having come out. As for the steel lintel, where would this be? Behind the brick? Can't see anything steel up there, but then I don't really know what I'm looking for either! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 It’s probably a catnic lintel, get a strong magnet and see if it will stick to the underside of the render, that will prove if there is any steel in there. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 Never heard of that before... I found a weak magnet and it stuck so seems you guys are right Doesn't stick on the inside of the house. Is that because the plaster is thicker? Not that it matters, just out of curiosity really. Thanks for the replies and for putting my mind to rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 Yes, if it’s a catnic often plasterboard is stuck to or thick plaster is used on the inside. Frankly if there was no lintel in there it would have collapsed before now,!!, just fix what you want over those bricks and it will be fine ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 That might look quite good finished off with a bit of leadwork to hide the brick. Cut out a bit of the bed above the bricks and put in a lead flashing, the bottom would form the drip to keep the rain off the window. Make sure you use patination oil on both sides of the lead so you don't get staining. You may be able to pick up an offcut of lead to save buying a full roll. Code 4 lead would do the job.. not too thick and not too thin. Don't block off any of the weep holes. There is a limit to the length that each lead strip should be as it moves about. For a flashing in code 4 the max length of each piece is recommended to be 1.5m so you probably need to do it two or more pieces. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 Excellent. Here's a pic of how it was before, which I'm happy with aesthetically. But the wood was up tight to the bricks, and so water ran down the wall to the wood, across the underside of the render, and then down the glass in streams (the window is west facing and sees A LOT of weather). So does my idea sound like a good one, to have a similar set up but with the wood spaced away from the bricks a few mm so that the water can't get to the window? Should help the timber last for longer too hopefully. Could it cause any problems doing that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 @Gus Potter - sorry crossed threads. Thanks or the input and your idea. I'm happy with the wood approach looks wise, plus it would be the easiest and I guess cheapest solution. If it isn't good to use my wood idea from a building point of view, then perhaps the lead would be an option. Otherwise I'll stick with wood. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Wood should be ok, I would try to stop the water/rain getting behind it. You could drop the timber down a bit, and put lead into the wall and draped over the wood a little, Also the wood being lower (say 20mm) would create a drip so water will not track back to the glass etc. Edited December 15, 2020 by joe90 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted December 15, 2020 Share Posted December 15, 2020 If you pack the top of the wood that is attached to the house out 10mm this will mean the bottom section will be running up hill towards the house. This will mean the rain can't run back and will drip of. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 2 hours ago, joe90 said: Wood should be ok, I would try to stop the water/rain getting behind it. You could drop the timber down a bit, and put lead into the wall and draped over the wood a little, Also the wood being lower (say 20mm) would create a drip so water will not track back to the glass etc. 2 hours ago, Declan52 said: If you pack the top of the wood that is attached to the house out 10mm this will mean the bottom section will be running up hill towards the house. This will mean the rain can't run back and will drip of. I think maybe a combo of these two ideas... I've never worked with lead before and know nothing about it. So i was wondering about using a sealant. I've had great success with Geocel the Works in the past. So maybe: - Drop it down 10mm from the previous height so the wood is a tad lower - Space/pack just the top of the wood from the wall - Run some sealant (The Works or similar) along the gap at the top to stop any water getting in behind. Combining the two might be a bit OTT belts and braces, but can't see why not to do it. Unless I'm missing something?? Hoping I can source a piece of oak or similar so that it lasts longer and weathers to that beautiful silvery grey colour in time... Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Share Posted December 15, 2020 RE weep holes... There's only the one that I can see. What's its actual function? I know you have them at the bottom of walls fro drainage, but why up there? And will the wood in front of it stop it doing what it needs to do? Sorry if my questions are thick. I'm a novice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 (edited) A weep hole is there to allow water to escape the cavity so it doesnt pool inside - the DPM that you can see is to protect the lintel / opening from water - they usually call them cavity trays but its just a piece of DPM, (you can get plastic ones as well). Watch this video: Bricklaying Guide -How To do a Cavity Tray Over Lintel - YouTube Edited December 16, 2020 by wozza 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxbow16 Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 It's quite mesmerising watching that guy with his trowel! Quite an art form. Cheers for the video and explanation. I notice he put in quite a few weep holes. I'll have a look tomorrow to see whether it is just the one above my window or whether there are more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFDIY Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 I'd go with Joe's idea. If you want to take it further cut the top edge of the board with a chamfer to encourage the water towards the face of it, you could do the same at the bottom. You can cut (with a circular saw) or router a groove for a drip edge like you see on window sills to stop water tracking backwards. I'd definitely chase a groove for lead to go into the masonry and over the top edge of the board to prevent water running behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted December 16, 2020 Share Posted December 16, 2020 All good idea,s above, do whichever you feel comfortable with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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