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MAX HEIGHT OF 7.3 BLOCK WALL outer leaf not built yet


drumdog

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Ive just built an inner leaf concrete block  ( 7.3 nm )  wall 3.2 mtrs high as the start of a fairly standard rear extension  into the garden off my bungalow. It is only tied at one point off the original bungalow as I can't tie the other side at this moment . Im now about to build up the gable end. another 2.2 mtrs.  So its like an n  shape but one of the legs isn't tied yet. Im about to build the gable end brickwork up using a string guide.  My question is how high can I go without the outer leaf being built and tied in  ? Have I gone to high already ! ! ?? Just thought about it now and struggled to find an answer.  Im not a bricky but have managed to keep it straight and plumb (just ) I have a bco involved but don't want to ask him this question.

 

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A lot of variables here, is the site exposed? subject to high winds?, Type of block and weight? how thick are the blocks etc etc. 

No definitive answer im affraid.

Edited by markc
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The practices you use on site are not really a building reg issue as long as the completed masonry wall complies with B Regs.  
However it could be construed as a dangerous structure under the building act.  The HSE could also take issue with it if it was a building contractor carrying out the work.

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Thanks for quick reply first off

 

Blocks are 100 7.3 m solid dense concrete blocks. . Surrounded by buildings on two sides. Theres some exposure  to winds on one side but north and westerly winds are sheltered.  My reasoning is id like to finish the blocks off so there out of the way !  I could move to the outer leaf brick walls instead now.... Im wondering what is deemed a reasonable height in the building world as opposed to best practise. The wall as said is tied to existing brickwork and has two corners to it. It is 5 mtrs off the existing back wall then turns 90 degrees 6 mtrs then returns back to existing house 1 mtr. There will then be a large window floor to eaves height and finally 2 mtr wall returning to the existing house. Thoughts ?!

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We are on an exposed site and our end wall blew over twice in a row over night during high winds, it’s only likely to happen when the Mortor is green (within a couple of days before it sets properly.

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Normally it's 7 course of blocks high and then you back that up so it won't fall over in wind.

Am sorry but building a wall that high only tied in at one point is madness. Walls fall over all the time and your taking a risk you don't need to take.

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26 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

 

Am sorry but building a wall that high only tied in at one point is madness. Walls fall over all the time and your taking a risk you don't need to take.

+1 many times over. Whatever methods you take to secure that blockwork will a)only be as good as their weakest part & b) getting in the way when you catch up with the outer leaf. Also,you run the risk of your blockwork coursing not matching the outer leaf coursing & having your cavity ties falling in to the house. 
There are occasions on site where it’s necessary to build out of sequence but to do it just to have the blockwork done is crazy. 

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42 minutes ago, Brickie said:

+1 many times over. Whatever methods you take to secure that blockwork will a)only be as good as their weakest part & b) getting in the way when you catch up with the outer leaf. Also,you run the risk of your blockwork coursing not matching the outer leaf coursing & having your cavity ties falling in to the house. 
There are occasions on site where it’s necessary to build out of sequence but to do it just to have the blockwork done is crazy. 

Exactly have seen so many walls fall over even ones with planks holding them. Why roll the dice when you don't have to.

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As others have said, shore it up now before it comes down, get the outer leaf up. 

 

You wouldn't normally build higher than a lift, so basically as high as you can reach then the scaffold co come in, to go 3.5m you must be on some scaffolding of some sort. 

As it’s still up now I think you have dodged a bullet. 

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