Walk on glazing leak

[Pocster]

So today for the first time I have a leak from the walk on glazing directly .

I can’t see how it’s coming in . Can see it’s from right at the top near the glass . Silicone outside seems fine . Hard to imagine rain hitting the roof and bouncing up underneath the glazing frame . Assume I’ll have to wait until spring when it’s dry then hose over the glass . Bummer . Apart from the known leak outside the site could of done without this ...?

Edited November 20, 2020 by pocster

[Pocster]

Didn’t wait until Spring stuck hose pipe pouring over it . Couldn’t make it substantially worse . As I said I can see it coming in right at the top - so it’s nothing to do with the slab edges like the other leak . Also notice dark patches in the glazing coating . Assume my screws in the upstand have caused that ....? 

[joe90]

13 minutes ago, pocster said:

Assume my screws in the upstand have caused that ....? 

how?, draw us a diagram of the installation.

[Pocster]

5 minutes ago, joe90 said:

how?, draw us a diagram of the installation.

I will do . I don’t mean caused the leak just the discolouration. Wonder if I could just silicone or ct1 the base of the glazing frame straight to the asphalt?

I am now assuming it’s water pooling at that point and perhaps rain bouncing up under the frame . I’ll cover the edge to prove my theory .

This is the shallowest upstand of all . Remember the original roofer completely screwed my roof up and I had to work around his bodge 

Edited November 20, 2020 by pocster

[Pocster]

Typically stopped raining ! 
Did this with the hose to reproduce the leak . Can only assume water and wind pushes it up under the metal glazing frame . So what / how can I get under that awkward to access lip ?? . Expanding foam ?? ?

[Pocster]

Ct1 on a spatula and simply keep pushing it up under that lip until I can’t get anymore in . Still awkward - not sure I can guarantee a good seal ....

Otherwise it’s some form of deflection so water simply can’t go up under there ...

Edited November 20, 2020 by pocster

[SteamyTea]

I have a full bladder, can I help out?

[Pocster]

4 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

I have a full bladder, can I help out?

Not sure that will be particularly helpful but I’ll keep it in mind ?

[SteamyTea]

Shall hold on to it then, may be more next time I am passing.

[SteamyTea]

Right, I have seen what you mean, have you thought of a GRP roof?

It is more 'walk on' than any other coating/covering.

[Mr Punter]

21 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Right, I have seen what you mean, have you thought of a GRP roof?

It is more 'walk on' than any other coating/covering.

 

It is a good point.  That roof is overdue for its annual strip off and replace.

[joe90]

@pocster, it’s not condensation is it?

[Pocster]

3 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

 

It is a good point.  That roof is overdue for its annual strip off and replace.

Guys ! Ffs ! Been round this loop a zillion times ! This is the best roof type . It has never leaked . It’s all of 2 yrs old .

The asphalt on top is *just* a protective layer - it is not part of the waterproofing.

Rain is getting under that glazing frame . Upstands are meant to be 90mm min ? . But because of the balls up with the original roofer and the architect bit understanding I had to raise the upstands . But I can’t have the front higher than my front door . So the front ones are very shallow . This one the worse - maybe only 20mm . Walk on glazing metal frame has structural silicone under it - presumably there’s the slightest of holes there . 

[Pocster]

2 minutes ago, joe90 said:

@pocster, it’s not condensation is it?

Nope . I’ve had many years of leaks to know the difference ?? . As I said hope pipe at it makes it leak.

[Pocster]

I forget that this all began years ago so you lot may have forgotten ?

Here’s a professional drawing 

[Onoff]

Whack some Seek 'N' Seal on where the glass meets the frame.

[SteamyTea]

1 minute ago, Onoff said:

Seek 'N' Seal

Or cover over with a waterproof membrane.

[Pocster]

9 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Whack some Seek 'N' Seal on where the glass meets the frame.

That better than ct1 for this ?

Remember I need to get it up and under that tiny lip at the front .

Old photo - before concrete pour then water proof layer then asphalt. Window on the right - you can see it’s a real shallow upstand after all that goes on .

[joe90]

How do you know it’s not a hairline crack between glass and frame from the top. I guess this is siliconed?

[SteamyTea]

2 minutes ago, pocster said:

Remember I need to get it up and under that tiny lip at the front .

Good man

[Pocster]

4 minutes ago, joe90 said:

How do you know it’s not a hairline crack between glass and frame from the top. I guess this is siliconed?

It is siliconed ontop . If I pour water all over the glass I.e running off it - no leak .

[joe90]

How about using this.    https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521   If you can get a small 90’ bend tube to fit on the end of the nozzle you could squirt it up in. ?

[Onoff]

8 minutes ago, pocster said:

That better than ct1 for this ?

Remember I need to get it up and under that tiny lip at the front .

Old photo - before concrete pour then water proof layer then asphalt. Window on the right - you can see it’s a real shallow upstand after all that goes on .

 

I see. You'll need to slip a bit of aquarium tube over your CT1 nozzle then sort of bend it up under the lip and pump. Or a bit of small bore copper pipe etc. 

 

If really unlucky you'll create a dam and make it worse! ?

[Pocster]

1 minute ago, joe90 said:

How about using this.    https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-roof-gutter-sealant-black-310ml/67521   If you can get a small 90’ bend tube to fit on the end of the nozzle you could squirt it up in. ?

Could work . 

[Big Jimbo]

Basically you have a T shaped metal frame. At the top of the frame, Nearest the sky, you have got a bit of glass that is bonded to that frame. If that bonding has broken down then it could be leaking from there. If it is not. then any water that hits thats glass will run towards the outer edge of the glass, over the bonding material, and over the very top edge of the metal frame, and start to run down the outside vertical edge of the metal frame. When it gets to the bottom of the frame, it will try to turn 90 degrees onto the very bottom edge of the frame. This part of the frame should not be touching any of your roofing material, as this will allow the water to track across. (We dont want that).....If your sealed frame is not screwed through the sides of the metal frame, and into the sides of the upstands, then that is a good thing, as that is another area where the water could track across......If you glazed frame, and bonded glass, has simply been fixed with silicon or whatever, to just the top of your upstand, and not the sides that would be ok. If however any of that silicon has come down the insides of the frame before tou plonked it on, then this could be providing a bridge for the water to cross. You DO NOT want to be filling behind the gap between the inside of your side, vertical frame, and your upstand. Certainly not to the bottom, as this will just provide a nice bridge for the water to cross. You want a nice gap around the bottom of that frame, in order that the water has nowhere to cross, and gravity forces it to drip down onto your roof covering. Can you take it off, and re-silicon it on, using silicon or whatever only on the top of the upstand, and insuring that there is none going down the inside of the vertical frame ensuring that you are not providing a bridge ? Your upstands are way too short, but i guess you know that already mate.