Nick1c Posted October 1, 2020 Posted October 1, 2020 We need to get the EPS upstand of our house covered before the paving can be done. It will have a gravel margin next to it & cedar cladding 150mm above for the majority of the perimeter, the exceptions being the thresholds of doors, which are level with ACO drains in front. Our options seem to be cement board with thincoat render, powder coated aluminium or the composite panel as used by @worldwidewebs What are the experiences of others? I imagine it is difficult to get a good render finish tight up to the cladding - but would it be noticeable? This sounds the most durable. The other 2 options sound as if they would initially at least give a cleaner finish, but what happens over time?
nod Posted October 1, 2020 Posted October 1, 2020 On 01/10/2020 at 12:15, Nick1c said: We need to get the EPS upstand of our house covered before the paving can be done. It will have a gravel margin next to it & cedar cladding 150mm above for the majority of the perimeter, the exceptions being the thresholds of doors, which are level with ACO drains in front. Our options seem to be cement board with thincoat render, powder coated aluminium or the composite panel as used by @worldwidewebs What are the experiences of others? I imagine it is difficult to get a good render finish tight up to the cladding - but would it be noticeable? This sounds the most durable. The other 2 options sound as if they would initially at least give a cleaner finish, but what happens over time? Expand You can render directly onto the EPS LW1
will_k Posted October 1, 2020 Posted October 1, 2020 We used slate tiles - external tile adhesive directly onto the EPS. Only been done a few months so can't vouch for longevity, but seems pretty robust. 1
Pete Posted October 2, 2020 Posted October 2, 2020 On 01/10/2020 at 12:15, Nick1c said: We need to get the EPS upstand of our house covered before the paving can be done. It will have a gravel margin next to it & cedar cladding 150mm above for the majority of the perimeter, the exceptions being the thresholds of doors, which are level with ACO drains in front. Our options seem to be cement board with thincoat render, powder coated aluminium or the composite panel as used by @worldwidewebs What are the experiences of others? I imagine it is difficult to get a good render finish tight up to the cladding - but would it be noticeable? This sounds the most durable. The other 2 options sound as if they would initially at least give a cleaner finish, but what happens over time? Expand We used Ubiflex which is fixed using their adhesive and looks really smart 1
HerbJ Posted October 2, 2020 Posted October 2, 2020 This has been covered several times in the pats 2 or 3 years. I attach an old post which shows a very nice detail employed by @Scotrock. It also shows an alternative detail that used on my house.
Onoff Posted October 2, 2020 Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) I think @Jeremy Harris used black upvc. Could be wrong..... Edit: I wasn't wrong/he did: Edited October 2, 2020 by Onoff
Nick1c Posted October 3, 2020 Author Posted October 3, 2020 Thanks for the replies. I did try looking for posts, but my search skilzs are clearly lacking. It looks as if I am late thinking about this as our cladding is already on with the battens cut to suit the cladding. We have 19mm WRC on 25mm battens above. The DPC has been turned down & taped as it was holding water onto the frame when turned up (how the framers left it). I assume we need a carrier board if we render, but this looses the majority of the air gap (3mm dot & dab, 12mm board, 3mm render?). The ubiflex potentially looks great - @Pete do you have pics/ details of how you fixed it on. I am concerned that if we use long lengths of aluminium that it will ripple & also be easily marked by the gravel margin. It also sounds expensive. The method @Jeremy Harris used relied on batten continuing down the EPS, which we don’t have. Could the board be glued directly to the EPS, how are they joined - a silicone bead?
Pete Posted October 3, 2020 Posted October 3, 2020 On 03/10/2020 at 08:49, Nick1c said: Thanks for the replies. I did try looking for posts, but my search skilzs are clearly lacking. It looks as if I am late thinking about this as our cladding is already on with the battens cut to suit the cladding. We have 19mm WRC on 25mm battens above. The DPC has been turned down & taped as it was holding water onto the frame when turned up (how the framers left it). I assume we need a carrier board if we render, but this looses the majority of the air gap (3mm dot & dab, 12mm board, 3mm render?). The ubiflex potentially looks great - @Pete do you have pics/ details of how you fixed it on. I am concerned that if we use long lengths of aluminium that it will ripple & also be easily marked by the gravel margin. It also sounds expensive. The method @Jeremy Harris used relied on batten continuing down the EPS, which we don’t have. Could the board be glued directly to the EPS, how are they joined - a silicone bead? Expand I just used the ubiflex adhesive to fix it. Really easy to do, applied a couple of horizontal beads and fixed the Ubiflex. I used some rollers to try and get good adhesion. I will add you can sometimes see a small amount of RIP g but it is very slight and on the overall look of the house looks fine. The Ubiflex is very easy to bend around corners. I butt joined it and will cover with a black Silkaflex. I bought the 900mm wide roll and cut it to size, saved a few pennies!!
Nick1c Posted October 8, 2020 Author Posted October 8, 2020 @Pete, just to be certain - you used the hi-tack on EPS, it would be disappointing to see it dissolve before my eyes!
Pete Posted October 8, 2020 Posted October 8, 2020 No sorry, I have just checked and we had a block plinth to attach to. Really sorry I sent you the wrong info, got to many things going on in my head at the mo. Once again I do apologise.
Gone West Posted October 9, 2020 Posted October 9, 2020 On 01/10/2020 at 12:15, Nick1c said: What are the experiences of others? Expand I used gel PU adhesive to stick some brick slips to the EPS upstand on my insulated foundations. They are still there many years later. https://www.axminstertools.com/titebond-greenchoicetm-premium-polyurethane-construction-adhesive-ax836048 1
Highland build Posted August 31, 2022 Posted August 31, 2022 On 01/10/2020 at 18:12, nod said: You can render directly onto the EPS LW1 Expand Hey @nod have you got any idea what would be best to render onto the EPS I'VE BEEN TOLD AQUABASE ewi 226 WITH A FIBERGLASS MESH or aquamat elastic with fiberglass mesh or polyester fleece? any comments on either of these? which might be best most of the area covered with it will then be underground back filled against according to the diagrams.
nod Posted August 31, 2022 Posted August 31, 2022 On 31/08/2022 at 13:41, Highland build said: Hey @nod have you got any idea what would be best to render onto the EPS I'VE BEEN TOLD AQUABASE ewi 226 WITH A FIBERGLASS MESH or aquamat elastic with fiberglass mesh or polyester fleece? any comments on either of these? which might be best most of the area covered with it will then be underground back filled against according to the diagrams. Expand I use Styropz for vertically every job Good price good to use Or aqua cement board LW1 for the EWI seems quite pricey But you don’t need a base coat 5 mil coat then fibre mesh Two hours later a second coat of LW1 (10 mil) Ive applied many thousands of m2s and never had an issue Bombproof Drop me a message if you need any other help or advise 1
Highland build Posted September 3, 2022 Posted September 3, 2022 On 02/10/2020 at 09:56, Pete said: We used Ubiflex which is fixed using their adhesive and looks really smart Expand @Petejust been looking at the ubiflex this might work well for me have you any photos of yours before and after?
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