MJNewton Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 I'm about to embark on a mammoth cutting session trimming down end panels, plinths etc for the new kitchen. I've bought a new 40T blade for my Titan track/plunge saw (it came with a 24T) but was wondering what blade depth I should be using for the best cuts? I'm sure I saw a video one time suggesting the blade depth should be such that the teeth only come halfway through the bottom of the work piece, whereas another article I've just read (on circular saws - I am assuming its the same consideration) says to have the blade coming 5-10mm through. Most other discussions about track/circular saw use don't seem to mention it. Any advice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 Sounds similar to what I read when I bought a plunge saw a while ago. I believe you want the depth to be such that the cutting edge of the tooth doesn't leave the lower surface of what you're cutting. For a typical blade, I guess that means you want the tooth tip to extend about 3 or 4 mm below the bottom surface. Have a look at Peter Millard's YouTube videos on plunge saws. He really knows what he's talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) The less blade protruding the less force there is on the saw base plate. This is a safety issue. I set the depth to maximum as it 'pulls' the work piece onto the base plate better. Do get a rougher cut. Opps, thought it was a hand held circular saw you were using. Edited September 28, 2020 by SteamyTea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 (edited) Thanks for your thoughts; it does sound like an as shallow depth as possible is what's called for if I want to maximise neatness of cut. 22 hours ago, jack said: Have a look at Peter Millard's YouTube videos on plunge saws. He really knows what he's talking about. Thinking back I think it could well have been one of Peter's videos where I saw the suggestion about having just an ever-so-slight protrusion of the blade beyond the bottom of the workpiece. As you say he seems to know what he's talking about so I'll go with that. Edited September 29, 2020 by MJNewton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 Contrary to advice I find in real world my tack saw produces less chipping on underside of cut the deeper it is. I find if I set it to a mm or so more than material the cut isn't always perfect. Set it to 10mm more and it is. I keep sharp blades too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 Make some practice cuts on a sacrificial piece of offcut see what works for you 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 18 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Contrary to advice I find in real world my tack saw produces less chipping on underside of cut the deeper it is. Ah okay, that's interesting. Will try some practice cuts as you suggest. I've only used my track saw for cutting up OSB sheets so haven't paid too much attention to the quality. Probably not the most representative of materials either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 There is no right answer for all materials, blade protrusion depends on the material being cut and the surface finish (thats the material itself, not splintering etc.) General rule of thumb - unfinished chipboard and OSB full protrusion to clear the blade gullets of resin faster. Melamine - approx 1/2 tooth. practice/test cuts is the only real way to be sure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 (edited) My 36v Makita has a factory depth stop up by the trigger set so that when engaged it allows a 2mm cut into the face material. You then slide back, disengage the stop, and complete the cut. DEFFO do NOT have the saw blade finishing on or just below the underside of the cut material. You need to have at least 10mm clearance to allow the teeth to cut upwards rather than cut forward, as the latter tears through and the former cuts clean through. The blade being 40t minimum and new is beyond critical criteria for a good finish. Edited September 30, 2020 by Nickfromwales 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said: The blade being 40t minimum and new is beyond critical criteria for a good finish. I was surprised how cleanly even the stock 24T blade cut, not least given I'd previously set the blade too deep such that it extended beyond the timbers I had the board supported on... I was wondering why it was so noisy - only afterwards did I discover I'd been cutting a 2mm deep score in the surface of the pristine screed below. I'm sure that didn't do the blade too good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 The 24T cut great for the first few cuts, but agreed, they should not be used for chafing out the screed to get power to your island ?. Been there, done that ( with others using my tools that is!?! ). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 I go for about 10mm and I rest the sheets flat on a bit of insulation. I have tried the only just through and it doesn't seem to cut as cleanly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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