Onoff Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I pulled off an old, loose, rotted 6" fascia board earlier to find this. The fascia was nailed through into loose fitting, rotten, wooden blocks. The rest is quite solid. How best to fill these holes and fit the new fascia? Is low expansion foam a bodge to fill up where the bricks are missing? I've bought some black ash effect 9mm capping board. One thought was to "fix" some 25mm thick timber battens, 140mm long, perpendicular to the roof then nail the capping to those. Was wondering even if CT1 could be used to stick the battens to the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makie Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 Use hammer fixings to attach the battens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 I cut some Celcon into wedges an mortar gunned them in. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 pukka job. I'd now just use some treated 6x1 as a backing board with pvc capping fixed over the top. FYI i believe you're fitting bargeboard not fascia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 Put the shake of the grain facing the outside (outside of curved grain facing brickwork) and the timber will try to cup inwards to the brickwork... top tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 27, 2020 Author Share Posted September 27, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Oz07 said: pukka job. I'd now just use some treated 6x1 as a backing board with pvc capping fixed over the top. FYI i believe you're fitting bargeboard not fascia Already bought the 9mm capping board above. ? All I know it's twice the price in black! Edited September 27, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 Right or wrong I cut and treated (dunked) some 2x1" (true size) battens, 135mm long. Affixed to the wall with an M6x6 Fischer fixing dead centre and backed up by a couple of blobs of CT1. Ran out of CT1 so switched to the half tube left of BT1. Gunned some here and there down the edges too. Only one fixing as I didn't want to disturb the top bricks/new infill though I did in a couple of places. Old board was an inch thick. This capping once on the battens is 34mm. The tiles will hang over 10mm less. I might put a filet of black roof mastic where the board meets the underside of the overhang. Only pita is I could only get 50mm Polypins in black. Going to have to chop 10 down with the angle grinder and put a point on them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 (edited) The Polypins are ring shank so a pita to get out if you bend one or hit something like a screw or nail. I would also consider / try using a length of J trim along the wall if it will fit (normally for soffit boards) to get a nice finish against the brick. Edited September 30, 2020 by wozza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 18 minutes ago, wozza said: The Polypins are ring shank so a pita to get out if you bend one or hit something like a screw or nail. I would also consider / try using a length of J trim along the wall if it will fit (normally for soffit boards) to get a nice finish against the brick. Ta. Could I pilot the timber a little, smaller than the poly pin dia, for less chance of splitting the battens? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozza Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: Ta. Could I pilot the timber a little, smaller than the poly pin dia, for less chance of splitting the battens? You could and I don't see what harm it would do, but I doubt if the pins would split the battens. Are you going to fit a dry verge as well?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, wozza said: You could and I don't see what harm it would do, but I doubt if the pins would split the battens. Are you going to fit a dry verge as well?. What's one of them then? Edit: A quick Google showed me. No, if it comes to that I'll be re felting the whole extension roof. Edited September 30, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 30, 2020 Author Share Posted September 30, 2020 Well it's up and looks better than before imho. Capping came from Eurocell. Its lovely to cut and work with: Need to do something with this corner though. Capping is cut level with the gutter board to the right. Tbh I'll likely just cut a timber block to shape and stick that in. Then paint it and the cut ends with Bedec barn paint. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 very neat job mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Good job. Glad it just tucked under the roof above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, Onoff said: Need to do something with this corner though. Capping is cut level with the gutter board to the right. Tbh I'll likely just cut a timber block to shape and stick that in. Then paint it and the cut ends with Bedec barn paint. Get yourself one of the larger 90° corner cap sold for this very job. I have an assortment of them in white here. Edited October 1, 2020 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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