Auto air bleeding valve.

[Russell griffiths]

Fitted my manifold and it came with a manual bleed valve although an auto valve is available 

do I need an auto ?? 

Look at pic it’s the bit circled. @Nickfromwales @PeterW

[Nickfromwales]

Yup.

I'd buy two and ditch the pressure gauge so you have air release ( automatic ) on both rails.

[Russell griffiths]

Ok cool, should I have a pressure gauge somewhere else ??

i take it I can add the lower one later as I’m using the pressure gauge to keep pressure up to check for leaks and whilst screeding. 

[Nickfromwales]

You'll eventually have one of these kits fitted for filling and expansion + PRV;;

So you get the pressure reading for the whole heating system from here, typically.

Edited July 22, 2020 by Nickfromwales

[Russell griffiths]

What I don’t understand is those bleed valves are £7 so why not just bloody put one in, instead of it being an extra. 

[Nickfromwales]

1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

What I don’t understand is those bleed valves are £7 so why not just bloody put one in, instead of it being an extra. 

So they can "bleed" more cash out of you of course!

[PeterW]

8 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

What I don’t understand is those bleed valves are £7 so why not just bloody put one in, instead of it being an extra. 

 

£4.29...https://www.bes.co.uk/aladdin-autovent-hv30c-1-ufh-23156/

 

Edited July 22, 2020 by PeterW
right URL

[JamesP]

@PeterW @Nickfromwales  @Russell griffiths 

Can you advise, my UFH has been off since March and I decided to top up all the loops on the 3 manifolds before we switched the heating on for the autumn / winter as one was gurgling a bit in the spring.

Have had the ground floor on and have had some huge pops / bangs in the 50mm Anhydrite screed.

The  pressure gauge on the manifold is reading 1.2 bar and on the front of the Ecodan cylinder 1.5 bar.

At the end of. each flow and return manifold are these, it it a bleed valve. 

What have I done??

 

[Nickfromwales]

Yes, they are manual air bleed points like on a radiator. One turn or so max to allow air out. Water will come out when done, then close without overtightening.

Pops and bangs? Can you elaborate?

[JamesP]

Hi Nick, I switch the UFH heating on in the main living space and after about half an hour while the manifold is still providing heat a loud pop / bang within the floor happens.

Could I have too much pressure in the loops or air?

I have just opened the air bleed points, no air just water.

Edited October 22, 2020 by JamesP

[Alexphd1]

I prefer a manual airpoint but with a space to catch air usually a length of pipe vertical leading the airpoint.

[CC45]

have you tried bleeding the loops?  I did all mine last weekend - it takes a few hours.  Good instructions normally come with the Wunda stuff.

 

If you aren't sure what you are doing then it would be sensible to get an expert in - you don't want to damage something in the slab!

[JamesP]

15 minutes ago, CC45 said:

have you tried bleeding the loops?  I did all mine last weekend - it takes a few hours.  Good instructions normally come with the Wunda stuff.

 

If you aren't sure what you are doing then it would be sensible to get an expert in - you don't want to damage something in the slab!

I bled all 3 manifolds last week, it takes a while with 21 loops. I installed it all last year as has been working fine, no noise etc. All Wunda components and the instructions all helpful.

[Nickfromwales]

9 hours ago, JamesP said:

Hi Nick, I switch the UFH heating on in the main living space and after about half an hour while the manifold is still providing heat a loud pop / bang within the floor happens.

Could I have too much pressure in the loops or air?

I have just opened the air bleed points, no air just water.

Ok, so we can rule out issues with the heat / circulation then? This sounds like the noise is coming from expansion where heat is entering the slab and the pipes are warming up a cold / cool screed. First for me.

Do you notice the flow gauges jumping when these noises are occurring?

[JamesP]

The flow temperature at the bar is 55c so I will adjust the blend valve down to 45c, Wunda mentioned thermal shock when introducing heat into the slab.

Will observe the flow gauges, thanks.

 

[JamesP]

@Nickfromwales

Been running the UFH at 45c today, no loud noises.  The final floor has not been laid yet and a crack has appeared in the screed.

Also 3 loops provide the heat for that room and I notice the return pipe on one of the loops is not warm like the other 2. The floor area in part of that room is not warm.

Flow gauges are all open as have auto balancing actuators on the return. I might remove the actuator and replace with a white return valve manual head and see if the water flows through that loop.

 

 

 

Edited October 23, 2020 by JamesP

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, JamesP said:

@Nickfromwales

Been running the UFH at 45c today, no loud noises.  The final floor has not been laid yet and a crack has appeared in the screed.

Also 3 loops provide the heat for that room and I notice the return pipe on one of the loops is not warm like the other 2. The floor area in part of that room is not warm.

Flow gauges are all open as have auto balancing actuators on the return. I might remove the actuator and replace with a white return valve manual head and see if the water flows through that loop.

 

 

 

Shut off flow to all which are working and try to purge the lazy one/s through 

[Oz07]

That's what you said to do on mine if i get any air lock on the rad manifold system. I had the engineer turn the max heating temp down a bit on the boiler in the hope it stops any gases 

[Nickfromwales]

3 hours ago, Oz07 said:

That's what you said to do on mine if i get any air lock on the rad manifold system. I had the engineer turn the max heating temp down a bit on the boiler in the hope it stops any gases 

You should be setting it to maximise boiler efficiency, but 55oC seems to be about the mark so the TMV on the manifold can operate reliably. 

[Oz07]

I think the boiler does that itself (sets flow temp) but this just limits the maximum temp it will heat to