Hep 20 manifold system

[Chablais]

So I have reached the point where I need to start first fix plumbing. After reading about manifold systems on this forum have decided that is the way forward. Is Hep 20 a good choice? I have a plumber who will help me, he said Hep 20 barrier pipe was too floppy for the bar mixer showers.  He also said I might struggle to make the 90deg turn within the studwall,  was trying to avoid having any hidden joints, so really don't want an elbow behind the tiles in the studwall. He suggested using a MLCP pipe as it holds it shape better. Or converting to copper for the stubs that stick thru the wall, but this would also mean a joint behind the tiles.

What have people used?

I was thinking bar mixers as easy to change in the future and a lot better value than using remote diverts like Hansgrohe I box thing.

Was going to use Hep20 for everything, except UFH which is coming from Wunda.

[joe90]

Hep 20 is recommended by our own plumbing expert!, I used it throuout my build, I did put 90’ elbows to both showers (grudgingly) but blank walls the other side so in an emergency I could cut into the stud to repair . I used multiples of these fir my manifolds https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-reducing-4-port-closed-spigot-manifold-22-x-10mm/2901r

[Chablais]

Hi Joe90

 

Thanks for the reply, I looked at those manifolds, but have also seen that most on here used the ones with shut off valves, which seemed a good idea. However the brass ones with valves are considerably more money. Did you incorporate any shut off at the manifold or fit them at the device end. I guess I could put one gate valve before each manifold.

Did you use 10mm or 15mm to your wc and basins? Just trying to draw it out and try and understand what fittings etc I need to order. Screwfix have a 15% off if you buy five or more Hep 20 items, plus additional 10% off in May, but they don't seem to have much Hep20 listed online. thanks again for your info

[joe90]

22 minutes ago, Chablais said:

Thanks for the reply,

I decided on a shut off valve on the 22mm supply To each manifold which would be suffice if you had to change a tap washer etc. Yes I used 10mm for basins hot to reduce time for hot water to get there and it works really well! . Didn’t think to use 10mm for cold also the reducers are an additional cost. 15mm for everything else.flow rate using plastic without many 90’ bends is soo much better and no joints to potentially leak ? the one on the left is cold, fed from downstairs, the one one the right is fed from above from the DHW tank with lever valve just out of site

 

note, if you link the manifolds together like I did you can’t get a demounting tool in there to get them apart again, ask me how I know????
 

 

 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by joe90

[PeterW]

@Chablais this is an alternative option 
 

 

You may need to use an elbow irrespectively and there are options  -  make a wall plate elbow from compression to push fit with off the shelf fittings for example. 
 

[Chablais]

Thanks for the pics very helpful.  For the bar mixer problem, do you use the brass fitting screwed to the noggin so it has more support?  Also did you use copper for the last bit that projects thru the tiles? Seems like more joints.  Would I still need one of these screwed to the tile. I really need to learn, and fast!

[joe90]

I used one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/h-c-contemporary-bar-valve-fixing-kit-chrome-effect/76919

[Chablais]

Hi Joe90

 

I have to use a tile backer board that is 30mm deep, as I made the studwall opening before selecting a shower tray, so I need to make up 30mm. So reading the reviews the threads will be too short. So what you are saying is that I need to anchor the pipes securely before they come thru the tile backer board. Or could I use the one you linked to, but fit it to the surface of the tile backer board, screwed back to the noggin in the studwall, then the threads should be long enough, as only the thickness of a tile and adhesive. Sorry so many questions!

 

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, Chablais said:

Sorry so many questions!

no such thing as a silly question, silly is not asking ?, . I don’t like shower valves hanging off pipes, even well secured ones. I have not used tile backer board and didn’t know it was 30mm thick!! There are others on the market that have longer threads, fir example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUALITY-THERMOSTATIC-MIXER-BAR-SHOWER-WALL-PLATE-BRACKET-PL8/271656283690?hash=item3f3ff9ee2a:m:mQQR-4FcHKVStShNpsmvX_g

[dpmiller]

plus tap extenders can get you out of trouble toohttps://www.bes.co.uk/tap-extension-1-2in-m-x-1-2in-f-10222/

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

I think this looks like a good bit of kit. 

 

[Chablais]

Hi Russell,

 

Not seen those before, looks good, but pricey at £40.00 per pipe, so 80 per bar shower. No mention on their website of what adapters they do, for connections. Trying to draw up my plumbing, tonights job!

[mvincentd]

I've used Maincor mlcp with press fittings.  If your plumber knows the system and has the press tools, it's good...but I wouldn't 'have a go' without experience.

[PeterW]

8 minutes ago, mvincentd said:

I've used Maincor mlcp with press fittings.  If your plumber knows the system and has the press tools, it's good...but I wouldn't 'have a go' without experience.

MLCP is expensive for a one off job - I know two contractors and they only have one press kit for 4 vans as it’s over £1k for a set with all the jaws etc. They did a German kit house near Lincoln and had to buy it as it was all MLCP and it had to be altered to fit the taps as the wrong connectors had been supplied.