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Alternative to Supalux board


Nick1c

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Our timber frame has a cantilever which requires fire protection. The architect specified 9mm Supalux & I paid no attention to this until I found out how much it costs!  I thought I had found a suitable replacement in https://www.fireboards.co.uk/ (naively thinking the clue was in the title...) BC won’t accept it as it doesn’t have the correct certification. Can anyone suggest (certified) alternatives?

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Why won’t he except Gypson fire board 

I’m always amazed how little fire protection there is on TF houses 

When do TF commercially we install fire break 

and fire baffles to every socket and light fitting 

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can you check the gyproc "white book" and see if layers of staggered PB will give you the fire proof time you need 

 we had to do this when i split my workshop into units 

19mm plank ,then fireline board ,then another layer of fireline --all joints staggered.

I canm,t see why MGO boards which if you check has an "A" rating won,t do -then cover in pb  if not a hard plaster finish 

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This is for the following build up (bottom to top):  Cedar, fire board, phenolic insulation board (£££!), CLT. Space is tight due to window heights, 9mm board was specified. 
I have just googled MO boards, it appears that their use invalidates a number of structural warranties so I imagine that BC wouldn’t be keen. 

 

Edited by Nick1c
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31 minutes ago, Nick1c said:

This is for the following build up (bottom to top):

I,m confused --

but bottom to top?

ypu mean from outide to inside?

you got drawings 

I can see no reason why MGO board would invalidate warranties when used as fire protection -

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I have used it for soffits on a timber frame.  They have a test for a 90 minute ceiling with 2 layers.  For external, 1 layer is probably enough as there will not be the same heat load.  Ask them.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I had to go for the 12mm board as it is the one that is certified.... It weighs a ton! It also looks difficult to handle as I can imagine it snapping if not fully supported when lifting it flat. We are having the house boarded out next week & I will ask if they would also do this as presumably they will have board lifters & are used to doing it. 
I assume these are the type of fixings needed : https://timco.co.uk/217228-cement-board-screws-countersunk-wafer-ph-self-drilling-exterior-plus-grey we are near the sea, should I be looking for stainless versions?

If I wind up doing this myself (with help) is it a good idea to cut the boards in half to make handling them easier?

Tips from those experienced in using this board gratefully accepted. 

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