Cladding detail at corners

[Trw144]

What's the general consensus on cladding details on corners? We really using horizontal tongue and groove cedar. 

I was assuming two 45 degree angles butted up to each other but chippy thought it would need trim pieces to cover?

 

Any input and photos of what others on the forum have done would be appreciated.

[Tennentslager]

Don't have a photo but a thick block (100mm) sitting proud on the corner gives a nice clean edge and allows the horizontal boards to butt up against a nice straight edge.

[ProDave]

Yes some form of upright corner block is what most people use around here.
 

[Tennentslager]

Found some online...

[PeterW]

As above or I've used a shaped aluminium profile powder coated on a couple of jobs that makes for a nice crisp detail. It also covers the edges so if you do get shrinkage it doesn't show. 

 

When doing a corner with cover strips in timber it pays to just screw or nail into a hidden corner batten that way the board doesn't get pulled as the horizontal ones shrink and expand over time. 

[Crofter]

Mitred corners in the horizontal boards ought to work in theory, but it probably won't in practise. I put together a little chicken coop using some scavenged wood and thought I could do the corners like that. What happens is that inaccuracies of even 1mm are enough to open up gaps at the corners. unless you are some sort of superman and can work to submillimetre precision, it will look pretty rubbish. Luckily the chickens have not passed any comment!

 

It also exposes lots of end grain so all round not a good idea.

 

 

[Trw144]

Rather than starts new thread I thought I d tack onto my previous one. For part of my cladding detail I will be using battens with spacing between them. However I need it to look black between the gaps rather than seeing the shiny vapour membrane on the outside of the house currently. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to achieve this? Can I add another   "Membrane" that is black in appearance to the outside of the battens or will this cause issues with moisture entrapment etc?

[Crofter]

You could just stick a cheap black breather membrane over the top of the existing shiny one, but you'll need to consider how much UV exposure it will get and whether it is rated for continuous exposure.

Or, perhaps a better idea is to run a black insect mesh behind the cladding.

 

Do you have a sketch or a photo?

[Trw144]

1 hour ago, Crofter said:

You could just stick a cheap black breather membrane over the top of the existing shiny one, but you'll need to consider how much UV exposure it will get and whether it is rated for continuous exposure.

Or, perhaps a better idea is to run a black insect mesh behind the cladding.

 

Do you have a sketch or a photo?

 

I ll take a picture in the morning. I don't think it will get much uv exposure as the area will be within an overhang and the battens should stop direct sunlight also.

[Trw144]

Ok, this is he area I m looking to clad with battens 

[Crofter]

OK, reading back to the start of the thread, you say you're using horizontal T&G cedar. Then you mention cladding with battens with gaps between them. So I'm a wee bit confused about what the finished look is- is this part of the building different?

Generally battens are used to support the cladding (although in batten-on-board vertical cladding, a batten covers the joints between the broader boards). Sorry if this seems a bit pedantic but we'll be going round in circles if we are talking at cross purposes

[Trw144]

And clad something like this....

[Trw144]

I m using tongue and groove for most of it , and then a different style (battens) for this element.

[Crofter]

A picture speaks a thousand words! I've never seen that sort of cladding before tbh.

It's generally a good idea to avoid access to voids where birds and insect might decide to take up residence- what about a UV rated black membrane tacked onto the supporting battens, acting to screen off the cavity? It would be flush with the inward face of the cladding. The downside would be that it would be fairly prominent/visible.

 

The easy answer it to just get a good quality black breather membrane and put that on top of the foil one.

I can't remember which make mine is, but it's black and completely unmarked, and is standing up well after about six months of exposure.

[Trw144]

Yes that's what I was thinking - trying to source one without size 200 font writing all over it is my task!

[Crofter]

I'll see if I can find out what I used. Was just cheap stuff from Rembrand (local BM).

[jamiehamy]

Whatever you do,  try ensure 'loose' membrane is minimised. We don't know the exact problem because the cladding has not been taken off,  but a friend is constantly annoyed by the sound of a piece of membrane that gets caught somehow in high winds and creates a'zipping' noise (for want of a better description ). 

 

We're assuming there is a raggy edge that is the culprit. With open cladding,  the membrane will need to be absolutely taut to avoid flapping or anything similar,  esp if not flat against the sheathing where it can be stapled.  

[Crofter]

@Trw144 I think I used Glidevale Protect TF200 in black (not TF200 Thermo).

[Trw144]

Yes and novia it seems also do one.

I ll  staple it on before hand and then it will also be clamped by the battens

[Auchlossen]

On my overhang, I have cladding with a 2-3mm spacer between to allow breathing. There is black insect mesh behind the cladding, which is fixed with S-S nails. This pic shows the construction:

On the walls the 100mm vertical boards are over 60mm under-boards, to allow a shadow gap between them of 10mm IIRC.Insect mesh top and bottom.

 

 

[Crofter]

By the way, would there any practical reason not to use something like terram as an insect mesh? It ought to do the job of keeping flying beasties out, whilst allowing water to escape. Just that I have some lying around and it would sabe me from buying something else.