pocster

Eclisse pocket door confusion

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Ok !

Absence of initial instructions didn’t help . But frame ( cassette ) as they call it built .
 

This white plastic naturally I assume comes out so door can hang / slide . Doesn’t feel like it wants to come out though ....

 

F0D94AED-AD72-4AA2-BD51-5ABAEC56D6B7.thumb.jpeg.1520e97ff3a8b90a668375a1c0b64975.jpeg

 

Also got a box of bits . No markings on box or instructions. Possibly a lock ???

 

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Finally an ‘anti slam ‘ thingy . As I’ve not removed the plastic in first photo - assume it’s obvious how to fix .....

 

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Edited by pocster

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Ok 

with enough force plastic comes out 

 

 

DEEEB99C-0C94-4611-9806-44E19175C891.jpeg

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1 minute ago, Russell griffiths said:

Can you do me a favour and buy a broom. 🧹🧹🧹👍👍

No ! F off ! - it’s clean !! Ish .....

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Think you need this video. White spacer is removed after fitting frame to wall. Box of bits appears at 1:09 I think..

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Temp said:

Think you need this video. White spacer is removed after fitting frame to wall. Box of bits appears at 1:09 I think..

 

 

That was helpful !

The plastic bit doesn’t come out anywhere as easy as in the video .

I now see that ‘box of bits ‘ is for a wooden door hanging so no good to me as I have glass !! ( yet to arrive!! )

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I couldn't see it mentioned in the vid but we had to adjust some stops in the pocket to prevent the door going too far in and banging the handle on the frame. I don't remember if this was possible after plaster boarding the frame so perhaps hold off finishing the frame if you don't yet have the door ?

 

Its also possible they have changed the design of the frame since we fitted ours.

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The anti slam instructions have beaten me ! . Perhaps it’s obvious when you have the door to hand . For now I shall just walk away to stop my cursing 

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Got the frame roughly in .

Is this enough ‘edge’ for the frame ? Allowing for plasterboard ( can use 6mm if I have to ) and skim .

 

As no finished floor have allowed 20mm off screed floor
 

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Edited by pocster

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IIRC when I fitted mine many years ago there was a metal lip on the edge of the frame that the plaster board slid behind. They may well have changed the design since then though.

 

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2 hours ago, PeterStarck said:

IIRC when I fitted mine many years ago there was a metal lip on the edge of the frame that the plaster board slid behind. They may well have changed the design since then though.

 

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How did you fix the far vertical part of the frame ( on the right ) - doesn’t have any fixing holes at all .

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31 minutes ago, pocster said:

How did you fix the far vertical part of the frame ( on the right ) - doesn’t have any fixing holes at all .


I fitted one at the weekend. As you say the impact jam has no holes. I simply drilled three pilot holes and screwed it the vertical stud frame which it was going into. 
My kit had two removable metal braces which help to keep everything square whilst you install it.

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3 hours ago, PeterStarck said:

IIRC when I fitted mine many years ago there was a metal lip on the edge of the frame that the plaster board slid behind. They may well have changed the design since then though.


The pocket side does indeed have a metal lip that the board butts up to. However, on the impact jam and header there is no lip and you simply fit the board flush to the opening. 

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Just now, Barney12 said:


I fitted one at the weekend. As you say the impact jam has no holes. I simply drilled three pilot holes and screwed it the vertical stud frame which it was going into. 
My kit had two removable metal braces which help to keep everything square whilst you install it.

So you screw from behind I.e through the stud into the steel ? . Any special screws required for this ? ( presume wood screws won’t bite into the steel ) 

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2 minutes ago, pocster said:

So you screw from behind I.e through the stud into the steel ? . Any special screws required for this ? ( presume wood screws won’t bite into the steel ) 


No. Through the steel into the stud. Just standard screws. They will be covered by the timber jamb kit. 
 

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7 minutes ago, Barney12 said:


The pocket side does indeed have a metal lip that the board butts up to. However, on the impact jam and header there is no lip and you simply fit the board flush to the opening. 


Here’s a useful image showing you the metal lip on the pocket side.

 

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5 minutes ago, Barney12 said:


Here’s a useful image showing you the metal lip on the pocket side.

 

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Ahhhh

Now this is where we differ ! . I have the ‘frameless ‘  version . No timber jamb . Will put photos up tomorrow. Tempted to just foam it on the far side ....

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12 hours ago, pocster said:

Ahhhh

Now this is where we differ ! . I have the ‘frameless ‘  version . No timber jamb . Will put photos up tomorrow. Tempted to just foam it on the far side ....

I've not seen the frameless version.

 

13 hours ago, pocster said:

How did you fix the far vertical part of the frame ( on the right ) - doesn’t have any fixing holes at all .

As @Barney12 did, I just screwed the jamb to the stud with roundhead screws.

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Here’s the far side vertical .

Also steel ; no jamb to cover any screws .

image.jpeg

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Isn't the white cover there to hide the screws and act as an anti-slam device? Unless I'm seeing it wrong. On mine there is a vertical foam rubber strip for anti-slam.

Edited by PeterStarck

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27 minutes ago, PeterStarck said:

Isn't the white cover there to hide the screws and act as an anti-slam device? Unless I'm seeing it wrong. On mine there is a vertical foam rubber strip for anti-slam.

Not sure tbh .

There was a cover over this which I ripped off so *assume* this is the finish ....

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3 minutes ago, pocster said:

Not sure tbh .

There was a cover over this which I ripped off so *assume* this is the finish ....

I'm pretty sure there should be some form of anti-slam on the jamb. Glass hitting metal isn't going to end well.

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If you've got the optional soft close mechanism then I'd be tempted just to plaster the jamb if its a super clean / contemporary look you're wanting. 

If not then as Peter says you'll need something to stop the glass hitting metal. A simple aluminium u-channel set in the plasterboard with a rubber strip inside would work well.

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Right !

Got this fitted correctly and level apart from the opposite side of the door frame . That white is the finish so can’t fix through it . The frame is all metal with no fixings on that side or at the back !! . Can’t see any other option but to foam .

Suggestions welcome ; before I foam and forget 

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Edited by pocster

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3 hours ago, pocster said:

That white is the finish so can’t fix through it .

So that white strip is non removable and therefore you can't screw through the metal and replace the white strip? Where is the door stop?

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