zoothorn Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 10 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: To be fair it does say that particular knife shouldn't be used for removing beads and to use one of these instead. https://www.windowware.co.uk/don-carlos-pallet-knife https://www.windowware.co.uk/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/31354/ Marvellous link thanks- the 2nd one being £10 less that is- it'll be damn useful for other stuff too. Tbh I still think it's gonna be nigh on impossible.. but worth a go with this whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Marvellous link thanks It's all @Oz07 doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 Damn doors are unable to open now. Seems the latch mech has broken on the RHS door (LHS door is ok). bloomin cheapest doors possible, I can tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 3 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: It's all @Oz07 doing. No, you found me the lower link- I looked all over that site for stuff, didn't see any tools FS. Cheers Peter & @Oz07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 Got a Harris thing/ version of that multi tool, I think. Damn hard but got one bead off.. but broke a corner bit/ some glue along glass too why so hard to do I guess. Other 3 are gonna be buggers as I don't have the leverage due to sill & side reveals being only 3/4" away from gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Chisel. If you're careful no damage: https://youtu.be/JLPXFjT5f1w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 36 minutes ago, Onoff said: Chisel. If you're careful no damage: https://youtu.be/JLPXFjT5f1w Ok I've done it.. had to use chisel & damaged a lip of the bead but should be ok. Minor dmg to top & btm beads.. but hey ho/ had to be done. Sides out p'easier. I can measure glass, in place > can order: are DG units all a standard depth? My glass sits on 2 packers/ fine, obvious. But held in place by gaffa tape all way round (at least holding in & not falling in my face here). So is it a 2 man job one outside tonking the b'stard twds muggins inside until it shifts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 No, not all units are the same depth. 20,24,28mm have been used over the years. A vacuum sucker can be helpful. When you put the unit back I put the short beads in first and finish with the long ones. Learnt my lesson doing a small fanlight when I put the long ones in first and had a bitch of a time trying to get the little ones in. That's how I learnt ths chisel trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Zoot the hoot. Careful fella. That black gaffer tape will not be holding your glass in. It will have been used around the edge of the Two glass panes, and the spacer in the middle. The glass will now only be held in because the glass will have formed a bond to the outside rubbers on the frame. Stick one of the short beads in one of the sides, and go outside and give it a bit of a thump as if you were banging a table, on the opposite side to where you put the short bead. This will break the seal. You will be surprised at how well it will be stuck. The bead that you put back in will prevent the glass falling out, just don't go mad. Once the suction has been broken, you can go inside and remove the short bead that you put in the side. You can now remove the glass, and measure it properly, including the thickness. While you are waiting for your new glass to arrive, put the glass back in, and put the Two short beads that you have in the each side. This will hold your glass in place, and the short beads put in the sides will be easier to remove when you get your new glass. That, and they will give you good practice of getting the beads correctly in, which is a very different process to getting then out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Putting beads back in I used a piece of timber and rubber mallet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 (edited) 17 hours ago, PeterStarck said: It's all @Oz07 doing. [edit] Ok thanks to @Big Jimbo for reply with info (I didn't see had posted). Cheers zoot. Edited January 28, 2020 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Big Jimbo said: Zoot the hoot. Careful fella.. Hi Big Jimbo. Just followed your steps/ put one short rhs bead back in (p'easy- thank lordy for that).. & wiggled DG out just enough to squeeze a tape in to measure thickness. 25mm, on the dime. Terrific help that was. Now, my HxW measure 735mm x 1065mm. This implies to muggins here, both these being 2mm shy of a full inch mark.. & the age of the upvc windows (at a guess 15 yrs).. that it likely was made in inches @ 29" x 42" x 1". Is that a safe assumption? Can I get DG units made to imperial (proper) dimensions, or do I just ask for 735 x 1065 x 24 mm (being nearest to 25mm)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Back to the french doors with condensation. I went to open the RHS one (main one) to measure what little height I have in the frame (yet another thing my build's has height issues with.. doors have only 165mm 'opening' height) & the mechanism seems to have broken: the key stops in the lock in the 10 O'clock.. & 2 O'clock positions & will not open the lock, so door cannot open. Last time both were opened was builder 17th dec, then locked by me. As they open outwards & a drop below (a balcony to be built) they've rarely been opened since installed, then scaffold removed ~ 10th dec. Advice please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 14 hours ago, Onoff said: No, not all units are the same depth. 20,24,28mm have been used over the years. A vacuum sucker can be helpful. When you put the unit back I put the short beads in first and finish with the long ones. Learnt my lesson doing a small fanlight when I put the long ones in first and had a bitch of a time trying to get the little ones in. That's how I learnt ths chisel trick! Can you remember if maybe 18 yrs ago Onoff, DG units might have been made in inches? I seem to measure exactly 1/16" shy of 29"" & 42 (my h x w).. & bang-on 1" for my glass depth. Can they be made in inches.. or do I just order 24mm D (& 735 x 1065mm). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 That's a 4:16:4 unit. 24mm gaffer tape is adding a nats bollock to the widtj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 2 minutes ago, Oz07 said: That's a 4:16:4 unit. 24mm gaffer tape is adding a nats bollock to the widtj sorry what does 4:16:4 mean? And do you mean my units are likely not 25mm, but 24mm? (I did measure taking gaffer off.. 25mm = 1"). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 I would guess they are 2 bits of 4mm float with a 16mm spacer bar. You know regs on where toughened/laminated is needed or not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 4 minutes ago, Oz07 said: I would guess they are 2 bits of 4mm float with a 16mm spacer bar. You know regs on where toughened/laminated is needed or not Ok so you're saying that its likely mine is sort of 99% likely, a 24mm depth glass? I don't know what regs are involved.. but if I order a DG unit I assume it'll be up to regs, wouldn't I? (or are you suggesting something else- sorry I'm not understanding this part of this post either). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Ok got a reply from glazer Co, concurs with @Oz07 @ 24mm (& would be 735 x 1065 they say). They've asked if "clear, pattern, or toughened?" no details on glass afaict; as its just a kitchen window- is it simply "clear" then? I don't know what 'pattern' means, or even could tell if its toughened could I? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 5 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Ok got a reply from glazer Co, concurs with @Oz07 @ 24mm (& would be 735 x 1065 they say). They've asked if "clear, pattern, or toughened?" no details on glass afaict; as its just a kitchen window- is it simply "clear" then? I don't know what 'pattern' means, or even could tell if its toughened could I? Clear as in you can see thru it! Patterned as in frosted or a leaf pattern like you'd have on a bog window. So you want clear for a start I imagine. Toughened glass shatters into a million tiny pieces if it gets broken. Safer to fall against (and clean up). Ordinary glass breaks into bfo sharp chunks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 @Onoff ok understood thanks. I was thinking of (my n'bors) terrible male pattern baldness: no pattern there just a shiny smooth dome. Can I safely assume then whatever's put as standard in basic white upvc windows.. is just 'clear', rather than 'toughened'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: @Onoff ok understood thanks. I was thinking of (my n'bors) terrible male pattern baldness: no pattern there just a shiny smooth dome. Can I safely assume then whatever's put as standard in basic white upvc windows.. is just 'clear', rather than 'toughened'? I think there's regs as to risk of where it is, like if a kid could run through a low window it needs to be toughened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 2 minutes ago, Onoff said: I think there's regs as to risk of where it is, like if a kid could run through a low window it needs to be toughened. Ok I get that: this being above a kitchen worktop tho, just a normal window.. no kids or xyz flying about warranting it being toughened, Id have thought just 'clear' would you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Based on this I found I guess ordinary glass would be fine? http://tufwellglass.co.uk/view-article.html/33/is-toughened-gl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Zoot the hoot. Glad you found my info useful, and did'nt just leave your glass in with no beads, waiting for that gust of wind. Now you have measured the size and the thickness, stick the old glass in, and put a short bead in both sides. When your glass is delivered, give the geezer a fiver, and he will have it in, and beaded before you would be able to make him a cup of tea. It will be worth your fiver all day long fella.......Those beads can be a right pain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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