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Strangeness

Featured Replies

Ok !

I’ve not been to look at this yet but ...

 

At the top of the house loft room . When tenant flushed toilet wall mounted water heater ( one of those crap things ) buzzes . Only way to stop it is open the cold tap .

This has only just started happening- i’m Assuming some air / vacuum issue ????

Mountings or pre-water-hammer?

 

If you have an onset of unexpected water hammer, I am sure T will let you know pronto.

 

Rubber bushes indicated?

Edited by Ferdinand

  • Author
12 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

Mountings or pre-water-hammer?

 

If you have an onset of unexpected water hammer, I am sure T will let you know pronto.

 

Rubber bushes indicated?

Can only go by what he’s told me . The water heater buzzes directly after toilet flushed . You’re being too technical for me with man flu !

Water hammer most likely. 
 

Put a 1 litre expansion vessel on the cold inlet to the water heater (assuming its in a cupboard..?)

  • Author
10 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Water hammer most likely. 
 

Put a 1 litre expansion vessel on the cold inlet to the water heater (assuming its in a cupboard..?)

The water heater is above the sink .

 

This type of thing

 

https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/elson-3kw-compact-water-heater-ehw3/

 

Why would it happen all of a sudden though? ; been there for many years.

  • Author
Just now, PeterW said:

Increase in water pressure from the street is the usual one. Or a pipe coming lose from a clip allowing it to vibrate. 

Ok. I'll check tomorrow - if it doesn't seem like that I'll put a video up. Cheers

we had a terrible one, noise throughout the pipes. ended up being a leaky shower head!

  • Author

Yeah it's definitely water hammer. So this means inlet pressure too high?

There is a stop tap feeding the toilet and water heater - is it as simple as turn that down a bit?

12 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah it's definitely water hammer. So this means inlet pressure too high?

There is a stop tap feeding the toilet and water heater - is it as simple as turn that down a bit?

 

No because all that does is reduce flow not pressure.

  • Author
18 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

No because all that does is reduce flow not pressure.

Ah!; so what is the solution?

Yes but I don't know if it will solve your problem. (any of them).

  • Author
1 minute ago, Mr Punter said:

Yes but I don't know if it will solve your problem. (any of them).

Nor me!. Reviews of PRV don't seem particularly favourable i.e. set it for 1bar and the pressure creeps up.

 

By reducing the flow though won't I reduce the pressure?. My physics on this not too hot! - I *assume* the 2 are related like volts to amps....... ?

  • Author
25 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Flow rate is not pressure.

Yeah I know - but aren’t they proportional or some how related ? . A plumber I quickly spoke to said it might be the cistern . Once full as it stops filling that can cause the hammer ...

37 minutes ago, pocster said:

Ah!; so what is the solution?


Err this ..??

 

Just add a an expansion vessel to the supply line 

  • Author
1 minute ago, PeterW said:


Err this ..??

 

Just add a an expansion vessel to the supply line 

As it’s a pressured unit assume I need a qualified to the correct level plumber for this ? I.e not just any plumber 

36 minutes ago, pocster said:

As it’s a pressured unit assume I need a qualified to the correct level plumber for this ? I.e not just any plumber 

No - it's a water pipe.

 

Only need to worry if you are actually working on oil or gas lines or the appliances themselves. I could go and install a whole DHW/CH system right now and only have the gas man do the gas and the flue - in fact, I could lay in the pipes, solder them together but just not connect at the gas meter or the appliance - gas fitter does that and does the pressure test and at that can certify your work - many would not do this for obvious reasons but it is not illegal. 

Edited by Carrerahill

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