joe90 Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 11 hours ago, ProDave said: They overcome this with an "accelerator heater" which is a posh name for a tiny (and I mean tiny) heater inside the thermostat. This is usually just a small resistor. The "accelerator heater" is turned on when the thermostat is "on" Thanks Dave, I have had a look and mine does not have a “heater” or neutral wire, no wonder it has a big hysteresis, can you recommend a tank stat with a heater in it? I suppose It does not make a lot of difference with gas boilers and 60+water temps but with “our” 48’ it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 7 minutes ago, joe90 said: Thanks Dave, I have had a look and mine does not have a “heater” or neutral wire, no wonder it has a big hysteresis, can you recommend a tank stat with a heater in it? I suppose It does not make a lot of difference with gas boilers and 60+water temps but with “our” 48’ it does. I have never seen a tank thermostat with a heater. I guess for tank heating the hysteresis is not such a big issue? I have only seen accelerator heaters in room thermostats. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 Given you've already wired to thermostat positions (are the back boxes on?) you can start by using as a single zone and if dont like then just cut through to the back boxes and put stats on. You'll also need to add actuators to the manifold and a wiring hub alongside it. I've used Heatmiser neostat v2's and neohubs. I've 2 manifolds with 4 and 7 loops from which i've created 6 zones (stats). The kit and caboodle to do this cost ballpark £650 plus (from the stage you're at now) it'll be an electricians day to hook it all up. Slightly off your topic Viv, I wonder if those promoting a single zone approach would do so almost regardless of house layout? I'm dealing with essentially a long bungalow with one half being bedrooms and the other being a single open plan live/dine/kitchen, and historically we never actively heat bedrooms(though they've always been upstairs so benefitted from rising heat). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 (edited) @joe90If you can get one with a suitable diameter sensor, a capilliary stat is likely to have tighter control I'd think. or there's this: https://www.advancedwater.co.uk/prod-217-255-1621.html Edited October 8, 2019 by dpmiller 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 35 minutes ago, dpmiller said: @joe90If you can get one with a suitable diameter sensor, a capilliary stat is likely to have tighter control I'd think. or there's this: https://www.advancedwater.co.uk/prod-217-255-1621.html I can second this. I fitted a capillary stat to our buffer tank and it has pretty tight control, at a guess around 2°C I think. It's just a simple mechanical stat, with no accelerator heater. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjseb Posted October 8, 2019 Share Posted October 8, 2019 Following on from this and my post about actuators yesterday I’m feeling that running our UFH as one big zone may be better too its only 2 zones which are adjacent rooms. One is a kitchen so perhaps I’ll dial down the flow rate a little as it gets heated by cooking that then eliminates the actuators delays without any cost and keeps the whole thing simple Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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