Cladding battens 15˚ anlge cut

[Patrick]

Apologies if that has been answered before, but Buildoing Control would like to see our Cladding put up with battens detailed to those Standards:

https://www.tdca.org.uk/timber-cladding/cladding-design-detail/vertical-cladding-new-buildings/

 

 

 

which is the latest standard according to the UK Timber&Decking Association.

It perfectly makes sense , as it helps the battens drying quicker from any water getting behind the Cladding.

 

Problem is that those Battens are not standard. They are not for sale as a standard product everywhere.

I couldnt find them anywhere online.

This doesnt mean that they are not available, but it certanly means that they will be a fair bit more expensive than standard timber battens, wether they are bought with that 15˚ cut or I m  buying standard and cutting each batten by hand.

 

Generally speaking , I see this as a recommandation, not a regulation.

Or did I miss anything in the Building Code?

 

How did you handle those?

 

[Declan52]

What about a bevelled fence rail.

https://www.mickgeorge.co.uk/cant-or-bevelled-fence-rail.html

[Cpd]

I made my own battens by cutting  down 150mm sarking ran them through the table saw and put the an angle on them at this point,  slapped some extra wood treatment on them and put them up. Not that I was trying to comply to anything it just seemed logical. I expect it’s overkill as it’s a ventilated area and will soon dry out, i angled mine to shed water forwards away from the membrane. 

[Patrick]

28 minutes ago, Cpd said:

I made my own battens by cutting  down 150mm sarking ran them through the table saw and put the an angle on them at this point,  slapped some extra wood treatment on them and put them up. Not that I was trying to comply to anything it just seemed logical. I expect it’s overkill as it’s a ventilated area and will soon dry out, i angled mine to shed water forwards away from the membrane. 

That's my point. It seems overkill.

but importantly, how long did that take you?

[MikeSharp01]

Once set up a 5m length should take around 60 seconds through a table saw. Around 80mm per second through the saw.  At 600mm verticle centers that length is more than 2 m2 of wall.

[ToughButterCup]

9 hours ago, Patrick said:

[...] How did you handle those (battens)?

 

Two rollers either side of the table saw (feed-in, feed- out) 15 degree bevel on the blade, me feeding-in and a tame mate to stack them.

It'll take longer to sticker the bevelled battens, re-stack and clear up the off cuts methinks.

[Temp]

Seems a shame to cut off the nicely pressure treated edge.

 

 

[Cpd]

As described above, once set up it’s pretty quick. I was also doing 50mm cover strips 

and also cutting a 45 degree cut of the bottom of all my face 

boards. If your going with board on board then I personally don’t think it’s that important as the chances of anything but a tiny amount of water seeping in is all your going to get and ventilation should keep that sorted. I was only putting 50mm cover strips over the main boards as that’s the design I like, I live in a very windy location so you will get some water being driven behind but it will also dry quick as soon as it stops raining as it’s always bloody windy ! My main roof on the other house is 100 years old and made with untreated softwood  sarking, it gets wet every gale as water blows up under the slates but it also dries just as quick, so this is my thinking about not being to worried in my situation. Location dependent as always. 

 

33 minutes ago, Temp said:

Seems a shame to cut off the nicely pressure treated edge.

 

Totally agree for me it was only based on cost, I could buy 22mm x 150mm treated sarking much cheaper than I could buy the equivalent amount of timber in 50mmx22mm or 75mmx22mm (could not get 75mm size anyway) so for me my time is cheap as it’s just forfun and is my forever home plus  I am coin poor so cutting it up with a volunteer and painting the cut faces was the way to go. 

 

 

[ToughButterCup]

50 minutes ago, Temp said:

Seems a shame to cut off the nicely pressure treated edge.

 

Hmmmm. 

Good point. How do we get round that one then?

[Cpd]

Just paint the cut faces with a wood preservative 

[Patrick]

@Cpd

I have board on board and agree with you, might not follow that request than. ?

[Temp]

I think the cant rails mentioned earlier are worth considering.

 

Few years ago timber merchant near me (Huntingdon) said they could get timber pressure treated for you after cutting but I don't know what the costs are like. 

 

 

[hotnuts21]

Hi, i am in the same boat with BC and I am going to use a cant rail as suggested here.  These have to be placed over counterbattens, but I cant seem to find any guidance on what thickness the two battens need to be, can I go thinner 19mm with the vertical batten?  Also whats the best way to fit the two battens, screws? Im pulling my hair out at the moment trying to work all this out.  

Thanks
Paul