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I am doing a self build barn conversion and am about to start building the path to the front door. It sprung to mind that I might need to comply with Part M, looking through the Architects Outline Specification for disabled access it only states that sockets and switches comply. From the drive to the door threash hold the distance is about 2200mm, (1850mm from the back of the concrete kerb) with a 220mm drop from door to kerb. Can I have a ramp the whole way? Can I have a step? Does it need a flat landing outside the front door? door opens inwards. Do I have to do something completely different? any advice would be appreciated
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- accessibility
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Hi I've just had permission to build a large garden room 12m x 5m which will form a gym and entertainment room. It needs to be built to building regs due to size. It'll have a small kitchen/bathroom. I've spoken to numerous builders (some I know and some getting quotes) and each seems to suggest the best way to build is either SIPs, Blockwork or a timber frame. I'm not a builder so don't know which to choose. Can anyone advise on the benefits/negatives of each and which might be most cost-effective option please? Other questions: Would you go for an insulated concrete base? and with insulation under the concrete or over it? How do I make sure the floor is strong enough? If it was timber frame or blockwork what insulation would you use - PIR or other? Would you go for a warm roof or cold? Any other major considerations to think of? Thanks Rob
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Hello, Does anyone know if you can have a door (that swings into the room) at the top of a set of stairs without the 400mm? I've attached a drawing Thanks
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Hello all, my partner and I have recently bought a new build house, and she asked me a question about the build which I had no idea about... There is part of the external wall, to left of the french door opening, where it appears that there is a vertical line in the bricks from the top of the house to the bottom. Does anybody no what this is for? Why is this part stacked differently to all the rest? Could this affect the integrity of the build? Thanks for any replies
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I am in process of doing a garden room that will be built in mind of becoming an annex in years to come. I'm unable to lay 3 elevations from outside my property and wondering if I can do the external block work first from within the build (off the slab) I've ordered 50mm Kingspan insulation but because of needing to build this way would I be best swapping for some form of full fill cavity rock wool type insulation (100mm cavity) Any help would be massively appreciated. How have I never used a forum before.. The info on here is amazing
- 6 replies
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- overhand laying
- insulation
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Hello all, Hope everyone is well. Sorry if this has been discussed elsewhere on here, I searched but couldn’t find anything - but I have limited knowledge of technical building terms. A year ago we brought a Victorian property that had been empty for around 20 years. We had traders come and do the main jobs but are currently doing the smaller jobs and making the place in to a home. I want to build a small workshop - roughly 14 ft x 9 ft. The area I want to put it has three existing walls - two ‘garden’ walls and the other being the exterior wall to our kitchen. In the one corner there is also an old privy, I am unsure if it would be best to knock down or try and integrate it into the plan, it is a solid build. The garden walls are two bricks in width and around 6.5 foot high, in good shape other than needing to be re-pointed. It would be great to get some advice on areas before trying to move forward with attempting this, so thanks in advance for any help. Would it be possible to tie in to these walls and use them for part of the structure, and would I just use a wall starter kit? (The brick is accrington brick) The garden walls would need more height, I take it I could just add more brick to that to increase the height? Would I have to dig down and see what the foundation is like on the garden walls? I would be digging down to put a foundation for the new front wall, would I lay a new foundation around all sides? As they are walls built at the same time as the house (1901) I would presumably have to put in a DPC, and then build block internal walls? I know I will need to check with my local council but presumably I could build it as high as the privy? I’ve included a photos so people can see what the area and walls look like. One last question (for the moment) - a foolish project for someone with minimal amount of building experience? Cheers for the help and advice. Dave
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Hi there, I work for a PR agency and we handle the PR for Ideal Home Show Scotland 2018. We are looking to gather some case studies for a media feature promoting the show. I'm looking to speak with families in Scotland who saved space in their home through innovative design or furniture, and families in Scotland who use smart home technology and feel that it has changed their lives. If you think you can help, or would like further information - please either reply to this post or PM me. Thanks!
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I'm looking to speak with families in Scotland who: saved space in their home through innovative design or furniture. use smart home technology and feel that it has changed their lives. If you can help with either of these, please respond to this post or PM me Further details will be provided. Thanks, Louise
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So, I had my 5th visit from the local authority building inspector yesterday. 1. Foundation/Radon barrier 2. DPC 3. Frame erected. 4. Block work DPC 5. Block work cavity inspection The meeting was a few minutes and went like this: Me: "Would you like to inspect the cavities?" BI: "I can if you like but if you're happy then that's fine" BI has a wander around inside and out making various comments about it looking well built. Me: "So when do you want to visit next?" BI: "Give us a call when it's finished. You know what you're doing." I then run through the various bits of paper he'll need for the completion cert. Me: "Do you want the water consumption calc" BI: "Have you done one?" Me: "No. But I can put something on a peice of paper" BI "Well if you like. I doubt we'll ask for it. Entirely pointless" Meeting ends!
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Western Distribution, Building control and too much water.
TheMitchells posted a blog entry in Scooby Cottage renovation.
Sometimes I wonder if this building lark is the right thing to do - both myself and the OH had a disturbed sleep last night. He was up around 3-4am, unable to sleep and around 5 it was my turn, worrying about the water in the cellar. And we are just renovating; what will it be like if we get to do our self build - one night without sleep and I'm a very grumpy bear, how will I cope with a couple of years! Maybe I should ask how will the OH cope with a grumpy grizzly bear.... Anyway, yesterday I spoke to Building Control for our area as it has become apparent that we need to make several applications for Building Notices and I wasnt sure when they had to be applied for. Seems it is before we do any work - does that include removing what was there....?? Opps. However, a very friendly officer was happy to give me advice. For the electrics we need to apply as the OH can only install, being Part P trained but he cannot certify so needs BC to pass the electrics. Thats a £360 charge. If we move the bathroom, that needs another notice but if we decide to leave it as it is and just replace, we dont. All the plumbing and new boiler will need a Notice but the chap we are planning to use is a Gas Safe plumber so he can certify his own work. the OH will be doing most of the labour but the plumber will be checking everything and providing the certification. The new windows would need a Notice except the company are FENSA certified so can do it themselves. And as long as we dont take off all the render, that didnt sound like it needed anything either. So it sounded like we only need to apply for the Electric work. Its a shame that the OH cannot certify his own installation but until he is doing more elctrical work, then it just was not worth paying the registration fees as they were more than he was making. What a monopoly the electricity providers have. We had to ask Western Distribution to come and check the earth of the house supply as the OH cannot touch their side of the electrical supply - ie the black box on the left. He had been unable to get a good earth in the Cu so installed an Earhting rod into the corner of the cellar and connected it, (the green/yellow wire on the right) to the CU which worked fine. For some reason he then arranged for WD to come out to check the incoming earth, which they did. they used a meter to give a reading (5 seconds work), said it was fine and then changed the fuse from 60 to 80amps. And that was it - £200 invoice to be sent out for 5 mins work, They werre unable to install an isolator switch between the incoming suppy and the CU as the OH had hoped so he could safely work on the new installation. thats not their side of the board - thats the electrcity providers! They only deal with the left side! They completely understood why he would want the isolating switch but could not help. They suggested he just cut off the wires going into the CU and instal his own Isolator switch between the meter and CU. But that would mean dealing with live wires unless he pulls their fuse out, which he isnt allowed to do! Hmm. While waiting for Western Distribution to turn up, I checked the cellar and was surprised to see our new Hygrometer showing a humidity of 99% in the front right hand corner of the cellar. It has always been the wettest area but this time, I could see lots of water drops on the rockwool insulation and the whole area was soaking wet with moulds growing in several areas. Its odd as the rest of the cellar is dry with no sign of water. And as we have had no real rain for several weeks, I would have thought the damp would have improved, not got worse. So now I am wondering where it is coming from. We were told before buying that there had been a problem with the drains between the house and next door, leaking water into the cellar so Anglian Water had relined the drains. However, it does not seem to have stopped all the incoming water. There are no downpipes which could be directing water to that corner of the cellar, so I cant see where it is coming from! Very strange and something we need to sort out. My thought is that we need to start digging down alongside that corner of the house to see if there is a problem with the drains. And ideally before it rains too much so we can see if it really is the drains or something else. ButI dont think we'll be able to get a mini digger in there and as the gas supply runs along there too, I think it will have to be done by hand. Very carefully. The joys of renovations.