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Everything posted by Post and beam
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This would be my view. I work in this field for the MOD .
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Which internal doors have to be fire doors? if any
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Doors & Door Frames
Portable fire mist system on the landing. Uses a lot less water and should fulfil that requirement to get out. -
Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Hi Russell, it helps hugely actualy. It shows lines, end detail and the 'proudness' of the forward most piece of timber relative to the stonework. -
Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Thats why this forum is soo good. Thanks. # Yes trying to provide a stable platform for the roof tiles. Clay tiles as per the main roof. # No barge board on this little piece, slight overhang and muck to tidy and seal the edge. # No soffit or facia. The main house is open eaves. # As its such a small area i was expecting to overhang the tiles at the bottom edge and let the rain drip into fresh air. Thanks again keith -
Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
I am thinking something like this to start. Yellow lines represent 4 x 2. Screwed to the studs within the SIP's plus anymore lower down. Green line represents a vertical length of 4 x 2 screwed to the chimney bricks as support. Something to run horizontally across the top at an appropriate point. That should do it for strength? -
Actually not these days. Mastic all the way around the bottom and at the rear. It wont move. But i do take your point.
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Another aspect of single zone thinking of course is because of the need to allow air to move more freely around because of the MVHR. Larger gaps under the internal doors for example. This makes a mockery of even attempting to have different temperatures in differnet rooms.
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Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Nick i am so grateful as always. Dont worry about giving me too much info. I would much rather get it straight with loads of detail and then i can research the terms i dont understand. The roofer was the same when Potton left some of the timber dormer ridges unfinished and the valley noggings in the dormers. He said ' you have a weeks worth of carpentry to do' . What he has done is good and i love the look of the roof but its left me to figure stuff out that i am unqualified to do. My fault for not employing a main builder or project manager i guess. Having said that, i figured that i could afford to make 2 mistakes at £10k each time and still come out ahead of the alternative. Thanks again -
Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Unfortunately that would be me. I dont have a primary contractor/ builder. So it is down to me, which is how i have ended up with the situation i have. -
Red/Brown/Buff bricks
Post and beam replied to allthatpebbledash's topic in New House & Self Build Design
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Help, Chimney 'knee' construction
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Hi Nick, The upper half of the gable end will be Hardie weatherboard. I think i need to fix some kind of batten to the SIPs panels (to the studs within) that the lead can be dressed over. Then the hardie can sit over that. -
I need to construct a frame i guess onto the knee of my chimney. Roofer wont do 'chippy stuff' and the Brickie doesn't know either. Its too small a job apparently, to get a chippy in to do it. So i need to learn what and how. Can i lay a piece of 4 x 2 onto the slope of the knee with a corresponding piece on the inner SIP panel face such that Battens can be installed across just like the main roof? All help and knowledegable comments gratefully absorbed as allways guys Thanks in advance keith
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Would anyone like to comment on this design proposal please. Done for me because i cannot get around Loopcads trial expiration today. I expect a Vaillant 7kw @ a 35 degree maximum flow temp if possible. do the flow rates look good? Anything else to note Drawing R2.PDF
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Airtightness progress, this is a lot of work...
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Heat Insulation
Yes as Nick says, recessed lighting. also for the MVHR ducts. The intello airtight membrane is fitted to the underside of the first floor ceiling. Once the plasterboard goes up, each penetration of it for the lights and ducts breaches the airtight boundary. So the boundary has to be extended to include these fittings. 6 MVHR outlets and 7 recessed light fittings in the wetrooms. Now i know why the TF company left a pallet of Noggins for me. Thanks Nick. some are better than others. The long runs of the Intello sometimes run more true that others. That is difficult to do on your own. Love my Dewalt stapler though -
First floor, no radiators/larger radiators ???
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
I only want one zone, but was told build regs require at least two, 'in a house of that size'. Its only 200 sq metres. So two zones both set to the same temperature most likely. -
A couple of pictures of my efforts on the upper floor so far. I have so many of these aiirtight box's to make, so so many.
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First floor, no radiators/larger radiators ???
Post and beam replied to Post and beam's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Hi JohnMo Thanks, what that means then is that people building their lovelly dream homes are lumbered with overly large radiatiors when i would imagine most people would want to go exactly the opposite way. I certianly regard larger radiators as a disaster. Thats if you are chasing the grant anyway, which i am. For the above reason my supplier is saying 45 degree flow in the UFH . I have opened a thread about this previously as 45 degrees does not seem like it would be efficient or desirable. If i had not already paid them a large deposit i think i would be looking at another option. -
This relates to well insulated new builds i guess, and not the retrofit strategy of larger radiators into older houses where it might be the way to go. I dont believe that those of you with ASHP's & UFH on the ground floor are running their upper floor radiators( if you even have any) at the same temperature as the hopefully low flow temperature that we would all wish for. Sub 35 degrees in my case. So assuming a well insulated/airtight house what flow temperature is considered best practice upstairs? The reason for asking is because i still cannot get my proposed ASHP installation supplier to think anything other than running the same flow temperature on both floors.
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Its not that i dont know and need to search google. I believe the more closely you look the less clear the distinction appears.
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Define please
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A bit like the screws & bolts question. Sorry to hijack but this is fun.....
