Post and beam

Hi JohnMo Thanks, what that means then is that people building their lovelly dream homes are lumbered with overly large radiatiors when i would imagine most people would want to go exactly the opposite way. I certianly regard larger radiators as a disaster. Thats if you are chasing the grant anyway, which i am. For the above reason my supplier is saying 45 degree flow in the UFH . I have opened a thread about this previously as 45 degrees does not seem like it would be efficient or desirable. If i had not already paid them a large deposit i think i would be looking at another option.

This relates to well insulated new builds i guess, and not the retrofit strategy of larger radiators into older houses where it might be the way to go. I dont believe that those of you with ASHP's & UFH on the ground floor are running their upper floor radiators( if you even have any) at the same temperature as the hopefully low flow temperature that we would all wish for. Sub 35 degrees in my case. So assuming a well insulated/airtight house what flow temperature is considered best practice upstairs? The reason for asking is because i still cannot get my proposed ASHP installation supplier to think anything other than running the same flow temperature on both floors.

Its not that i dont know and need to search google. I believe the more closely you look the less clear the distinction appears.

Define please

A bit like the screws & bolts question. Sorry to hijack but this is fun.....

It was more a question about the OCD side of not getting it perfect, like having to use 2 pieces is a particular place rather than 1 large neat one because its just not possible to slide one large piece in. That kind of thing.

not getting a perfect fit when laying floor insulation. Or having to use smaller pieces to make up a space. Is it just me?

Thanks Nod. The Caberboard is glued to the joists below and 100% around on every mating side and screwed down. I cannot imagine its ever going to move.

Our new build has Caberboard 22mm fllor on the first floor. It is very flat and strong with zero bounce. I cannot see why i need anything under it before i tile it. Am i being an idiot or is this a simpe thing please?

O.K i get it now. Never heard of them by that name. Steel screen it will be then.

????? I looked at the suggestion above earlier today and thought that if its plastic it would not do the job. Stainless mesh is the way i think i will go having researched more this afternoon. Just need to find the best place to fix it inside the loft.

Our cold roof design is very 'open eaves' such that unless i do something substantial i think most of the local wildlife will come and live with us. What have you guys found to be the most effective barrier and where have you placed whatever it is you use please?

I would be suspicious of this bit. One because they cannot provide it and secondly because developers can apparently test one house and apply the figures globally to the rest of that type across the board. Are these 3 houses substantially the same design ? Might they have 'virtually' done your airtightness ?

From my TF supplier i have the following line..... 'External cladding as per details and in accordance with manufacturers recommendations' Ground floor is brick clad outside of Sips panels, first floor is Hardie board weatherboard. I believe the Hardie board is inherrently fire safe. So where the Hardie literature makes great claims about its fire safety , does this satisfy the line above 'External cladding......? I am trying to understand whether fire barriers are additionally required around the perimeter of the Hardie cladding. The brick work has ( will have) fire barriers.

Thank you, will check this out. And these

Thanks Nick, i will have a good look at these

My first thoughts are Mira Flight of some size. I need 2, one in main bathroom and one in En Suite. Are there any Brands to stay well clear of and Brands that you wise ones would recommend.

Thanks Marvin, much appreciated.

I need to make a penetration out through the Utility wall for the sink and washing machine waste water. Is there any regulation on the height above floor level it needs to be please?

This is what they look like freshly laid

Thanks, that all sounds very sensible.

Yes dude, secondary return loop for hot water. The pipe is insulated colour coded MLCP. I have been reading up quite a lot about it today. Due to the cost it adds to my first fix quote, posted here yesterday, i am minded to not bother.

What are the benefits, or reasons to avoid or include in my install please? What effect does this configuration have on efficiency. Thanks as always in advance for wise words

I sent a few requests for quote out via one of the usual aggregation sites last night. Lets see what i get back.

I do have a company lined up to do the ASHP & UFH . They dont do first fix though. The above price is only for the first fix pipework. The labour works out at 21 days @ 400/day