Post and beam

Yes.

And yet all the advice is, 'ventilation is key'

Thanks dude. Throuble is, i followed the instructions. Now i dont know how to get a meaningful figure. It might be that leaving the tester fixed to the floor for more than 24 hours is the issue. Does not say that anywhere though. My fans move 100 cubic feet a minute. Thats twice the kitchen volumne every minute! Ought to be enough. Very confused

Thats not the issue, well it is an issue but not relevant to this question but thank you.

I bought one of the moisture testers from Pro tiler tools. Fix it to the floor and leave it for 24 hours. Easy. I got a reading and then fired up a large fan for the day. Reading %is lower at the end of this, excellent we are moving in the right direction. But the following morning the % RHI is back above 90! Bugger. I have been repeating this for a week now. Am i doing this wrong?

The plaster in our house is smooth like glass, shame to paint it really. Had a few small issues with the frog tape peeling the paint. Even after a mist coat. Probably down to me not leaving the ceilings long enough before wanting to paint the walls.

I thought the mist coat was supposed to be watered down, or have i misunderstood something?

What a great idea. I would give this serious consideration for the large mounds of earth i am going to have to chuck about behind the house when everyting else inside is finished.

If i knew before i started what i now know about the detailing required to meet the requirements i would have used Marmox everywhere. Heres why.... Our SIPs build requires 60mm PIR upstands around the outer walls and 25mm PIR for the internal walls. The inner walls were a nightmare to accomodate and not cause issues with them sticking proud of the plasterboard. All told the time required to measure cut and fit all of these upstands is/was a total pain in the backside. Time i could ill afford. Only when i finished did i discover that Marmox under the sole plate makes this unnecessary. It would have been worth the cost to have used them.

I learned yesterday that Anhyfix adhesive can be used at RHI of up to 85%. As we are not quite at 75% yet i thought this was my resolution. But it is no longer available as Kerrakol have bought the company. Does anyone know which Kerrakol product, if any, replces it. I have been waiting all day for their technical rep to return my call. Thanks in advance, keith

I have been speaking to Aerobarrier for a couple of months and took the plunge, they arrive this Tuesday to demonstrate how badly or how well a job i did of my airtightness detailing. Anyone want to predict a before and after score? SIPs built, 200 square metre Potton framed 2 storey. All of the airtightness work has been done by me, for better or for worse.

I have a nice dewalt circular saw. Can i use this to cut say 5mm off of the long edge of pieces of timber Linky thing

Plasterboard is installed and plastered already. I think you are talking about a different measurement though. for example, my door frame is 120mm from plastered face of wall to plastered face of wall. if lining is 115mm there will be a gap either side and if the lining is 125mm it will sit proud of the wall. Is it standard practice to plane to fit. Obviously the best answer is to buy linings of the exact same width as the frame(& plasterboard)

Door casings ( linings) come in a variety of widths of course. When there isn't one the exact same width as the opening you need to line there is going to be a gap each side when the architrave is fitted flat to the wall. So, what is the common practice to address this please? I ahve been having all sorts of fun and games trying to find doors that the wife will accept that come in the right sizes for our openings. And then this issue of door linings rears its head as well.

I am looking to use panelling to about 1 metre height around the bathroom. Everything i have found so far appears to be MDF. Is there any genuine wood panel option that you can vouch for and direct me towards please.

I imagine the RHI would still be above 75% after a few days regardless of any drying strategy. @nodhave i understood you correctly

Thats sort of what i was wondering about, it might not be down to my wishes where it goes.

So Gyvlon is specifically listed as a Flow Screed. @nodThat means i can arrange a tiler i think. Screed has been down for a month and has been cleared of Laitence. Thats if i can find someone that does not wear a mask and carry a flintlock. As per another post elsewhere here, my laughable quote @ £3200 ( not including the tiles) for 28 square metres works out at £114/ metre. For 600 x 900 tiles thats £60 a tile. Yes of course i will be accepting his quote

Sorry to jump into this old thread, but..... 'hardly need any drying out time' I have an anhydrite screed, Gyvlon i think. I was expecting up to 105 days. It is 75mm. @nod are you saying this is not necessary ? Really confused now.

Yeah i'd be happy at that kind of number. Just got quoted £3200 ! Includes all the Ditra, adhesive etc but FFS

Hi Guys I am looking for some guidance on what would be a reasonable cost for the laying of Kitchen floor tiles. As can be seen in the enclosed drawing. about 5.6 metres by 4.8 metres. Tiles are 600 x 900 15mm. So looking at labour and whatever is required to fit them. North hertfordshire rates in case that helps. And if anyone wants to do the work please DM me. Is it acceptable to look for trades on the site, apologies if not. keith

My wife pointed out that the height at which i planned to mount the Vaillant thermostat control in the hallway might be governed by the accessability rules and therefore unacceptable. Does anyone know if this is a factor as i am unaware where to find anything definitive? Thanks in advance wise ones as always

On the subject of screed drying....... Up to 105 days is bonkers & less than helpful. What is a relaible way of testing when the floor is in fact dry enough to tile. I have heard of a humidity test. what exactly is involved in this please?

That was my understanding as well, how wrong was i? At the least i would expect that the screed company would do this. I paid for a one stop shop approach and said so clearly on every ocassion i had any communication with the people i contracted to do this. It is done now but has cost me £500 that i would rather not spend on this. I did it myself, the cost was hiring the kit. Now just have to wait until the floor is dry enough to tile.

Nick no i dont expect anyone else to endure my efforts to remove the Laitence. I intend to use my trusty Henry hoover attached to the grinder, and if i have to change the bags often then its a reasonable compromise against another £240 for an extractor. More than the grinder itself as it happens.