saveasteading

Panic...the key wouldn't turn and we were locked out. OK try my key. Same. A bit of fiddling and it worked. But it is a worry. Then trying it lots of times seemed fine, but maybe some gunk had moved OR I was getting the angles right. Looking at the keys, they aren't quite the same, and both look rather simple. One is probably the original and has worn. The other may be a copy of a copy. Maybe we should copy the one that is working slightly better. Do such 'security' locks wear out? Will a scoosh of oil sort it all out or just delay the day when we are locked out? The lock will be about 15 to 20 years old. Change it?

The only problem with the dalek is that I have layers. 6" of grass cutting which becomes a part composted mass, 8" of weeds which disappear beautifully, then weeks of household veg waste ...which attracts rats. Mixing would help a lot. Lots of worms in and under. Slow worms inside last year. Rats (small, country ones) this winter...but can't really complain.

Being a suspicious type, I immediately assume that paint on masonry is to hide something.

We don't know the geometry. That tie seems to preclude movement. Maybe your SE can propose alternative bracing, esp if you can have a division wall there.

\\im going to try this. The blue bin filled from kitchen and gardening, then transferred to the dalek after initial fermentation. Now looking on Marketplace for a £5 blue bin.

Any repair or maintenance issues?

Or a metre or so vertical pipe with bag over it It's It's very visible so less likely to be bumped That's why I read this stuff. I'd never seen or thought of that. A wet and dry, bagless machine is cheap too.

When brown bins were introduced the promise was of we subscribers being able to get the composted product very cheap. This never happened as I assume businesses found they could give it a name and sell it at £5/ bag. But we have together stopped the use of peat and saved the peat bogs. Well done us. Anybody tried sheep wool compost? Expensive, but looks and feels like quality.

I meant woody prunings that are going to break down but slowly. That's why they sometimes go through twice. I make no attempt to turn the contents. In the perfect world I would have 2 timber bins with removable fronts in 2 parts, so the stuff can be turned. One can be emptied for use while the other continues in use. If these are substantial (1m3?) they won't need insulation. These could be beautifully made, or 5 pallets.

All the sloping timbers are under loads trying to make them level, thrusting out at the walls. The cross ties resist that thrust, triangulating the forces. If anything it seems low on such ties. Yous SE is maybe even being pragmatic in not saying to add more...I.e. it's working, so leave it be. The roof space has not been designed as a room, and sometimes you have to accept the limitations. Better than it falling down. No. He is is giving best , expert advice, simple as that.

It has to be polyurethane foam, and closed cell. What claims do they make? If you have plenty of garden space then you don't need this. I have a couple of the tardis ones. they take all year to fill, as the bottom rots down. then I empty them and put any unfinished composting back in the again. They take all the kitchen veg and soft garden cuttings and weeds etc.. Sticky stuff goes in a bigger bin and I shovel the good stuff out of the bottom and let the rest settle. I got about 8 barrows of amazing compost this year. It has only saved me £100 of commercial stuff but very satisfying / sustainable, and I think it is better.

I kept the offcut from ours. It is an overhead one. It is a plastic sheath, filled with fibreglass strands enclosing three hair-like coloured strands of what I assume carry the data. No metal. Underground spec may be different.

I saw some advertised recently. Maybe the info was out of date. Ply is still imperial.

Check the board sizes. Are they 1200 or 1220? X 2400 or 2440?

Rainwater is not called grey water even in filthy cities. BTW the grey water and sewage may have bleach in it from your cleaning products, and tablets, which will inhibit the bugs in the digester, so try to minimise it.

Yes it is that simple. a hole in a block is to difficult, so either shunt it up to touch, or cut a alice off. then you have a gap remaining but can pop a piece of ply over it and infill with hand mixed concrete or some leftover. The ply is left in place for ever. For clarity. Grey water is the kitchen and laundry drainage and it goes in with the sewage to the treatment tank. Rainwater should not go there for several reasons. It dilutes the sewage and pushes it through too quickly, overloads the soakaway, and is wasted whereas it could go elsewhere useful in the grounds. Plus you can catch the rainwater for gardening.

They don't know they are paviors. They will work fine as masonry blocks. Will the width work, or be laid sideways?

One told me the client's budget when I asked. I said it couldn't be done, by a long way. . He responded ' the client always finds more money'. I then saw the client privately and withdrew, on the basis that I wouldn't be involved in a deception. They got it done at about twice the budget, then kindly showed me round too.

Mostly in the ease of jointing. The best ease together, thd worst need lots of lube and fiddling, which isn't fun when down a muddy hole. But I've found obscure brands to be fine if from a specialist drainage merchant. It can be quite a decision though.

I can't get rid of the above for some reason so ignore. More re merchants. Most small builders have one BM account. They may get decent value or may not acc to their buying skills and turnover The BM is often getting a premium for their credit risk. I did a warehouse for a BM once. The owner told me that Saturday mornings was good business. ie 10% off list price pleased the public but had a nice margin. Your builder might charge you the list price while paying less....fair enough when they are buying and managing. I bought a special part for a built in wc recently ( I asked questions on here). It was £32 on Amazon and more elsewhere online. TP got it in specially and charged £16. I'm glad I asked them. A rule of thumb is that a project is labour/plant/materials 40/20/40% before overheads. 20% or more discount on 40% of a project is a lot of money. And a builder will quite reasonably want 10% margin, or more, on it too.

As users discard skin, oils and wee. It gets killed by the chlorine but stays there.

That is an inline heater isn't it? so could be used for warming water during filling. I meant a heater on the end of a cable, plugged in one end and splashed in the other. That way the water stays put and gradually gets thicker. The Romans would have heated a sword and plunged it in the water.

There must be a product which is a coil encased in a metal tube. An immersion heater with an enclosure to keep it off the material.

Some are easily manhandleable off the trailer. Some only sell through a bm, so the handling is theirs. Later a digger can hoist it in the hole. Obv @ProDavehas had a heavy one. So yes, ask.

Meet the reps at 2 local BMs. A national one and your local one. Talk through the job and they will soon be chasing you. Online will show you the unit prices so you have a feeling. TP website is handy. Then they will give better prices when they can because if they upset you once, you might be gone. Delivery is included. Save the haggling for the big purchases. The exception is drainage. Usually better to find a local specialist. Thd rep is usually straight with me about what they can't compete on.