saveasteading

What is your situation? Walls, floors, cobstruction? Our solution was 1. 2 x thin skins of pir can be cut more accurately between studs, then a second layer which can slso be staggered to cover joints. On the floor two layers staggered too. 2. on walls then use mineral wool bevause it pushes in tight.

The uses acc to bldg regs are not that subtle. Is it heated? Is it inhabited by people ( ie not cars/storage)? Then it needs to be insulated, of certain dimensions and safe from fire. If it is an attic used as a den, then that will be its value at any future sale.

As above. An extension is expensive. Modifying the attic is expensive. So now is the time to design accordingly for a relatively small cost. Not a couple of hundred unfortunately: that will buy your ladder. A few thousand. BUT I'd also allow for doing it properly. Make sure that the layout allows that a compliant stair can be added later. Building regs are for our safety plus it will arise at any future sale.

if you are thinking of a room in the roof, then we return to point 1. the trusses have to be designed to suit.

Have you tried it? if it is a good proposal then demonstrate it working to the bco. there is nothing saying that a rodding point must be a proprietary system. gullies can be trapped or convoluted so are not an obvious solution.

You mean permanent stairs? Space, cost, building regulations.

1. offsite fabricated trusses are the cheapest way, but there is little space left for movement or storage. You must tell them if you want space. 2. tell them so they allow for the weight. 3. absolutely. and if you have pull down ladder it is always there, tidy, and secure. and much safer to use. again check you have space between trusses. I have a scissoring one which is very compact...but I have high ceilings and need a stepladder to release an re-stow it.. 4. I am not expert....others will be along who know. BUT it probably needs a sturdy base and some noise absorption. I think batteries are very heavy and would need lots of support.

TS say 6mm2. another site says this, and includes a data cable EV-Ultra 10mm 3 Core + Cat5E SWA Armoured Electric Vehicle Power Charging Cable Black

I have another little job to do, putting in an swa across the garden for future car charging. I will later get an electrician to connect it at the fuse board and a socket. I'm thinking domestic overnight charging is basically a 3 pin socket???? I have no idea what spec of cable this should be and the electrician isn't available right now.

They are not an SE. Any SE might be an expert witness in structural matters. It's up to you but I say don't get drawn in. They might even tell your neighbour that there is no case. Do have a witness though.

If the kiosk is temporary and being removed? I think so, and they have fancy splicing boxes that they pump resin into. I don't now how they turn the power off while this happens.

Yes. there are fancy machines for it, but they are expensive and sometimes a bit fierce. do you have access to a pressure washer. (a £300 one, not a car wash model).they can be powerful enough to take this off, and then stop at the concrete. otherwise get the radio on and knee pads and several wire brushes.

It is very sad for me to smile at being right for once. Does this make you you less concerned? Nobody else will notice the wobbly surface, unless it gets wet and puddles.

No. you wold need to put at least 75mm on top or it will curl and crack.

I used to offer a maths class when working on schools. How much concrete to order for the floor slab X x Y x Z. That took an hour and it was quite a struggle for most. I had planned for this then 2 more questions but dropped them. Even those who could grasp the numbers had trouble with decimal points. A site foreman wanted to learn management. Lesson one......he could not work out the volume of a pit. He could do darts countdowns and horse odds though. It was a matter of needing to know for him. Don't assume it is easy for everyone.

That's us. The land is being sold along with another redundant (and more interesting) building. A similar search to yours has found a set of spec's for a site supply cabinet. it is slightly bigger than the one I have just ordered! It will all be fine. It also shows that ducts are to be flexi, 125mm diameter, to 450mm deep.

Yes . But can't find it. Your attachment is more practical I think. I've ordered the cabinet. It took two hours because the checkout price added £100 for delivery. then they agreed that was wrong and it became £12.....BUT the base price then increased by £50. Fortunately a real person agreed the price and it is now ordered. 7 to 10 days delivery. someone else said 3, and it is the same thing, sitting at the manufacturer's depot. This cabinet should be sitting at every electrical merchant for a sensible price. I expect you want figures? £584 incl VAT. It would be a bit less for the minimum size. I could easily have paid £100 more even after much searching, and some wanted £1200 or more.. Now I hope it turns up Ducts. I will take the above advice and put in a black duct 70 or 100mm for the big cables, bent to a J shape to 600 below ground. and maybe another as spare. Plus a proprietary 38mm hockey stick for the earth.

Easy for some. But well worth it if it is in the skillset. It also demonstrates that some elements are very much more important than others, and some pragmatism...if that is within the skillset. Some who charge for it don't understand it properly either. They maybe think they do., maybe don't care.

ooh that is tight! here is the one I look like buying. I think this is the Kingspan standard one, and the ducts are what I thought UKPN might not like Yes this doesn't seem to be a metered box, but I found it on the supplier's page as an approved one.

The electrician said he preferred 4 core SWA and a separate earth. UKPN need one entry. We need One but will put in two. I've wrongly said above that the kiosk is £550 all-up. It is plus VAT. Can't find anything better though.

It will be site specific. UKPN will meet you on site to discuss. In our case it had to be within a radius of the power pole. It might equally be from a cable in the road. Then they don't want it vulnerable to vehicle impact . A real person will advise on site. I can't remember the distance (30m?) but beyond that it became a major project and cost and timescale jumped dramatically. Within it , it could go to kiosk or direct into the building.

What is cheap? we found that cheap(er) , from a known brand, was just fine. I'm talking about garages with 30+ movements a day, some HGV too, and oil spills etc.. I expect there is some rubbish too.

I fear that domestic screed will fall apart under car wheels. Some 2 part epoxies will be thick enough to take out a few mm, but they are expensive. And 5 x (or 10x) the price. I have built 5 or 6 or so big commercial garages. In some we used the epoxy paint instructed by the dealership, at huge cost, once thick enough to call a screed. It was really good. In others we used single coat paint. It worked fine but wore out at repeat tyre scrubbing points. However the client had saved a fortune and was happy to retouch when necessary, which any of the mechanic s could do.. Where else might they be hiding? a 10mm paste on top is standard, resulting from tamping, and I assume that is the case here. ie the paste rises, leaving solid concrete mix below. I'm suggesting the opposite. let it be wet for a week.

we are the opposite. we have to get our cable across the vendor's land by a deadline, and the kiosk built. So we will have a kiosk and our cable dangling inside it for a while and then get UKPN in. Or do we get our stuff wired up into the garage first? Decisions. The supply comes from a nearby pole and through a duct that the vendor (and neighbour) has had installed already. It doesn't quite reach the kiosk position and I have no idea if it is intact and appropriate. So I think we are best leaving an open trench behind the kiosk between it ( and our duct) and the existing duct. Your photos are really helpful and I may use them to show the groundworker if you don't mind. @Kelvin The 44mm hockey-sticks look just about ample there. What size of cable do you have? We will have 4 core 35mm2 SWA and a 16mm2 earth. Do you think an extra duct for the earth is prudent?

First try this. Wet the floor and put plastic over it for a week or so. There may well be cement in there which has not chemically bonded through being too wet/dry variously. Then let it dry. Next try the sealer stuff. Next I wouldn't use screed but a garage floor paint, assuming it will stick. This won't break or crack, and can be recoated if it wears off under wheels. It looks good and is easy to clean as a plus. It might be that you do all of these.