saveasteading

Another possibility is to fit a beam at mid height, a hollow section probably, inside the building. The window sections fix to that and so the sections are spanning half the distance and can very much smaller. From outside the glazing is more elegant. Inside you have a steel, which can look great or not, acc to context.

The manufacturer has it all worked out and the fitters will work to the spec provided. I'm thinking back to a warehouse where there were sliding industrial doors, hanging from the beam overhead. It's a sort of bellows effect, and made of steel so heavy. If I remember correctly, the manufacturer stated quite clearly what load there would be, changing in complex manner as it is pulled about, and they specify a maximum deflection, otherwise it will jam in the bottom guide runners. The SE designs for that, it gets built and along come the fitters. They fix the top, loadbearing, runner with spacers, in the knowledge that the beam will deflect by the amount specified, or less, and the bottom runner to suit. Thus, the runner may rise slightly in the direction of opening, and the weight cause some deflection that won't be a problem. ie it looked like an uphill runner, but the weight brings it down to horizontal and then a little lower still. I only did a few of these because they are a pain and I generally convinced clients to go to an overhead door. But it was a routine thing and they all worked nicely. If you have proper experts it will be fine.

Ahh yes. That. And that. So like my morning in the cold rain, squidging through mud and trying to divert runoff.

People vary. Architects are taught self confidence and boldness. Some courses include very practical design while others are all about vision and concept. Some are pure artists. Some are interested in construction methods, Some are interested in construction detail and even cost. Make sure to get the right type, and also interrogate on their attitude and experience. I interviewed a recent graduate once and expected to see some working drawings in the cv, but they were all abstract paintings denoting....something or other.

No it's not. Says company selling it. No, it's for a different scale of building, and had plenty of cons.

Yes.

We all make mistakes. some sympathy required. But we are liable for them. Would it have changed the final cost if it had been designed properly in the first place? If so, then there should be some recompense.

It isn't his job to do all the detail, including assessing tree type, ground type and the distance. He does spot checks. and you are the client and aren't expected to know any of it, so it is the builder or designer. Just in case it helps still....the tree affects foundations according to distance. eg if it is 15m from the building and the found's have to be deeper, then it will be further than that to any other areas of foundation, and they are shallower.

ASHP being noisy is a myth spread by the oil industry and climate change deniers. There used to be some noisy ones. My oil boiler here makes a horrible whoomph when starting, and is noisier than any old ashp, plus sends a stink out...which your neighbours won't get with your heat pump.

Don't worry. Cracked blocks occur in beam and block floors a lot. It doesn't matter because any crack is a very ragged interface and it is all still touching and jammed in place. if you try to take out a cracked block to replace it , then it is nigh impossible. So don't worry, and summarise the very good advice above....then do it. One last thing. This floor/ceiling already exists and is floored over I am assuming. Next time (for you or anyone) , there are proprietary hooks that can be hung down between the blocks.

For a self tapping concrete screw, all the advice is good. I would just emphasise the importance of the hole being perfect, ie exactly the right diameter and cut cleanly. The instructions will say. Also is an SDS going to roughen the side too much? And, it is normal to discount the first 20mm of concrete in calculating fixing length. this is because it can be all of fine stuff. AND because the pullout failure mode is conical, so strength increases dramatically with depth. Hence the screws are a bit long. I don't know what the sharp point is for either. Maybe that is just how screws are made to get the tapering effect when the cutting starts. OR because people complain that there is no point.

Perhaps not as much as mine. I find using even a normal nail gun into timber to be unpleasant and scary. I remember using a hilti gun into concrete with equal displeasure and somd failures. It's a skill. So I also would drill, plug and screw.

Simply the work involved. Commercially they are made with osb as a Web, in a very fancy production line: see John James video. Diy would need an SE spec and precision work, so it's easier and cheaper to have excess wood in the central area. OR make a box beam with timbers top and bottom and ply sides....again it needs calculation and isn't worth it for a small job.

None. Otherwise what is it doing to your hand and arm, which are talking the exact same force?

Profiled metal with screw fixings. If you choose one with the crowns at 330 ish centres and in slate grey, then it looks quite similar.

Sorted. If outdoors is 85% today, airing won't help much today.

Aaah! It is admirable to go for the sheep's wool and the lime. However, if you were to use modern materials you wouldn't have all that weight and nobody would be questioning the structure. If you have to rebuild or severely reinforce the roof then that counteracts the sustainability intent of the design. Sorry to put a downer on the green ideas, but I think my suggestion could be argued ( shown in numbers even) as more sustainable, if that helps. Pragmatic sustainability. Try multiple methods, test the design, decide if it is appropriate.

Your best friend for reducing the wetness of recent wet trades (concrete and plaster) is airflow. Even on a damp day this will remove the damp until it is at outdoors levels. It is just a matter of opening doors and windows, especially at opposite faces. Only after that is it worth using a dehumidifier, with those openings kept shut. Then try heating the air along with the dehumidifier. Agreed re not using gas. It does work on heating the space, but also makes all that water. How about just a very powerful dehumidifier, turning lots of electricity into heat as a byproduct. BTW I have always found the requirements to dry slabs for a day per mm or whatever they say, to be excessive if you can keep the water out and the air moving.

The point of metal cladding is that it spans between supports. So you could have battens at quite a distance, according to the product. The cladding should not leak but might get condensation under it, hence this void /ventilation idea is sound. I'm not against standing seam as such, and the risk of leaks through screw fixings is removed. Why did I never use it? horrible to repair if ever a branch damages a panel etc. The flat bit is very flimsy and does not tolerate cutting for services. Why choose a no-screws product and then screw through it? Cost I gave every client the choice. In most cases they had been told it was best and not told anything else...including the cost. sarking in solid board, even osb then a breather membrane so it never gets wet battens up the slope, battens across the slope cladding.

Up your way there is no shortage of timber, and getting deep beams shouldn't be difficult. So 9" or 10" would be an easy improvement over 8". The improvement in strength being approximately based on the square 10/ 8 to 100/64 ie very much stronger. BUT your local timber is mostly C16, so find C24.

The Architect would be wrong not to advise of the possibility of the roof work. Can you give us more info? what sort of insulation are you considering. If it and any plasterboard etc are not too heavy then there is a decent chance of the roof you show us being fairly readily reinforced from within. Don't despair but work at a resolution.

It's a car port. If it looks OK it is OK. I'm not doing any calculations , but suggest doubling up the big ones, bolted together. Ie 2 instead of 1. Once it's built, if it feels OK, that's it, if it doesn't, ask again. Failure would be from snow load, drifting against the wall, so clear it, or stay out. Def diagonals at the beam to post junctions for stiffness. Will look better too.

I showed this conversation to a family member. Architect capital A and contractor. Agreed completely with @Alan Ambrose. An @Icevergetype 3 fairly obviously. You are right. Finding the right one for yourself isn't easy, and the wrong ones are easier to find, being better self publicists.

Insulate if you can. Not necessary perhaps, but much to be preferred. Even a few mm if that is all that fits. The mass of the wall is very handy in keeping summer heat out, but not winter heat in.

Lime. Builders and consultants often don't understand it. Have a read and then you will decide it is the right thing to do.