Alex

many thanks that's good to hear. 2x 6x2's it is then. ?

thanks, that would also be my plan, glue and bolt them together with m10 or m12 bolts and probably add some nails for good measure! It's just trying to figure out the smallest timber size that can be joined that will work for a 4m span.

Hi All, Am just planning a Garden Room / Gym which is planned to be 6m x 4m internal. The issue I'm having is that to keep the height within permitted development I'm struggling with keeping the roof make up thin enough. Based on the 4m span from what I understand 2x8 or 2x10 at 400 centres would be fine. However this takes me over the max height limit and I don't really want to drop ceiling height inside. Would using doubled up 2x5 or 2x6 timbers work instead of the bigger timbers? I can't find span tables that show what are basically 4x5 or 4x6 roof joists.

I'm pretty much open to any options that solve the problem, it's then a question of space/location and the usual one of Cost.

as @JSHarris said above the sizing is to get around actual capacity of around 200 to 250ltr. this would give me about 15 mins (ish) where we could be running 2 showers at the same time plus the odd basin/kitchen tap. Key goal is catering for morning rush when kids are getting ready and we're also trying to get going at the same time. the main plumbing runs are all 28mm and then drops down to 15mm in each bathroom for cistern/shower/basin. I have 32mm MDPE coming in from mains. I have 15lpm @ 2.8bar incoming from mains.

thanks @JSHarris I'm assuming you've also lagged the pipes as the go into / out of the shed to house? This would be an option as I have a space next to air source heat pump that won't be seen from any windows and the mains in to house come in just the opposite of the house wall at this point. Did you just buy a off the shelf shed an insulate it (floor/wall/roof) or did you build a custom one? Just thinking what might be easier/cost effective! @PeterW pipework is all done so only options I have is in the small room where the cylinder is and which is where the mains comes into the house as house before it disappears off to bathrooms/wc/kitchen/laundry/etc. Yes have restrictors on taps. I haven't thought about changing shower head though to be a low flow option... that would help a bit. I think I will need the accumulator option though as have turf going down and will need to water that and that's going to play havoc as our outside taps are basically spurred off the kitchen and laundry room feeds.

Hi All, I've been told that to solve the issue I have I need to install an accumulator. Basically if you're in a shower and someone flushes the loo and then turn on basin tap whilst cistern filling the shower pretty much stops! The problem I've got is that I don't really have any space to accommodate a decent sized accumulator. (I've been told a 400/500ltr would be about the right size) Does anyone have any advice on installing accumulators outside? or are there ones made specifically for external installation? I've googled but not come up with much so far so I thought I'd try you guys! :-) Any / all advice or alternative options welcome as need to solve this quite soon as I'm getting loads of grief about it! Cheers A.

hi @lizzie just wondered how that film is working for you. I have a glazed gable that is causing overheating and am looking into options.

I ended up moving the stud wall slightly and running it under a joist. I insulated the wall with rookwool slabs and I also put rockwool either side of the joist. I didn't do with the design as shown by @Temp above but did double board on both sides.

I spent just over £1k on rebar on my nudura build, with my blocks coming in at £22k. This is for a 170m2 footprint chalet bungalow and 65m2 garage/workshop. For me biggest lintel was 5m wide using lots of 20mm bar plus joining stirrups, but most was 15mm bar. I can't remember exactly without digging out invoices but I think I used about 450m of bar.

I used the Nudura one. I also used it in strips for the wall to PIR under rafters junction. Works well, but you have to ensure the eps of the block is clean, dust free and dry! First time I used it I hadn't cleaned the wall enough and it didn't stick, but after a dry brush, damp cloth and allowed to dry worked well. The longer the blocks are out in sunshine you get a small amount of dusting on the block surface, so the longer (ie months) they're exposed the more brushing and cleaning needed. If fresh from delivery a quick wipe and dry and good to go. Easy to cut with a new Stanley blade and a straight edge.

how big a panel? Could something like this be made to work? https://www.energybulbs.co.uk/kosnic+12w+2d+4-pin+led+-+cool+white/465781742

I have found a joiner on ebay whose price is similar to other quotes (approx £95 a tread) and uses engineered oak treads. pictures look ok but I'm always nervous when using ebay!! especially when its spending nearly £1500 on treads and apron and delivery...

Hi all, just wondering whether anyone has sourced Oak stair treads and have any recommendations. I'm building my own open riser staircase and need 12 x 60mm treads. Have talked to a couple of local joiners down here (Devon) and have got wildly differing quotes or aren't interested in quoting which I find odd! thanks Alex

in my case the extract for mvhr is on the wall and no way to get to that point now. is theory you wouldn't need to with recirculating.... so long as it clears out grease/smells/moisture...

thanks @Alphonsox Good to know that you don't seem to have any issues with extract. Cost is driving me as well between the 2 versions although I'm trying to justify the more expensive option to myself as it has more features!

Hi All Just looking for some opinions..... I'm looking at putting an induction hob with built in extraction into a kitchen island (2m x 1.2x) and after much deliberation I think I've decided on going with Bora. It seems that there are definitely more options for this type of hob/extractor combo now than a couple of years ago when I started planning my build. I've had a look at AEG, Neff, Siemens and Caple as well as Bora and from reading posts here and generally online it seems like Bora is way to go. I have a couple of question for those who have induction hobs and Bora in particular as I'm undecided on whether to go with BFIU or BIU versions. 1. Is having a flexi zone really worth it? I've never actually used a flexi zone, just normal induction and the difference in cost of the 2 Bora models is approx £850 with the difference being the flexi zone, about 70mm in width and a slightly different touch control panel. tying to decide if it's worth the cost difference! 2. For re-circulation Bora just duct back into the service void behind the kitchen cabinet and vent into it with the air working its way down and then our over the plinth. Just worried about any potential issues with moist air etc sitting behind/under the cabinet.... or am I worrying unnecessarily! Thanks Alex

If you have a joiner/carpenter make and fit some fitted wardrobes would this fall under "Supply and Fit" and therefore could ask tradesman to zero rate the invoice?

thanks for the suggestions. @newhome - Future proofing is definitely important. Looking at the Lightwave I should be able to just change out for normal switches so would have individual control via normal switches if there was any issue in the future... @chrisb - I'll have a look at the milight system @Alphonsox - I have looked at the Hue system but not too sure. I'm looking at controlling some LED Strips and some narrow beam spots as they're going to be at the ridge line.

Hey there, Just wondering what people have used / could recommend for some simple lighting control. I have a large open plan room that has Kitchen, Dining and Lounge in it. There are (or will be!) 9 separate lighting circuits that I'd like to control via 4 or so preset scenes. I'd like to avoid having a bank of light switches which no one (except me) knows what they all do! I'm not looking for a whole house system just something that can be used for this one area. Cost as always comes into the equation as, whilst I'd love to have a Savant or Crestron system I don't have the ££££ to spend. I've been looking at the Lightwave RF system which you can use smart switches that can then be controlled via a Scene selector switch, basically put the bank of 8 switches in the back of a cupboard and have the Scene selector switch in the usual switch place, there's a mini control box that needs to be on network as well. For a 8 circuit system I've been quoted approx £450. Does anyone have any experience with LightwaveRF? good/bad? or any suggestions of alternative systems that you're using / would recommend? Thanks Alex

After messing around for a few days looking at options it basically came down to a cost and time issue. I didn't want to spend more money as over budget in a number of places! () and putting cost implications to one side all of the options were going to take time and therefore delays. So I took a pragmatic approach to this.... ( see pics) The slating is now done and the roof looks great, just got to find the time to get the fascias and soffits finished now.

Hi All, Issue cropped up today when getting ready to slate the last of the roof. When we reached the roof light opening and were measuring up to batton out the openings we realised that the openings are to big for the Keylite Combi flashing supplied. Basically the flashing requires max 100mm between openings. However due to info given to me by Keylite I've allowed for tolerances on each of the openings so middle opening is approx 45mm to wide since it turns out the middle opening doesn't allow for any tolerance with this flashing kit!! I need to move the twin rafters over by this amount. Options: 1. Strip roof, gutters, fascia and soffit, cut out trimmers and then add new full length rafter (birds mouths both ends as seated in web of steel ridge beam and wall plate) and then cut out rafter in the way. Add vertical trimmer on far right to maintain spacing 2. Come up with a way to cut out part of twin rafter (XXXX in picture) and add vertical trimmers (white boxes in picture) I'm posting as my structural engineer was busy on another job and now it's the weekend so have no idea what I should do. The roofers were going to be finishing off this last section tomorrow (sat) which would mean that the roof is finished and they're due to start a new job on Monday! So may be a couple of weeks or more before they're available to help finish off... The spec by engineer is for twin rafters between windows. If I cut and trim as per the picture it would mean that there is only 1 continuous rafter but with the amount of structure around it to my untrained view it should be ok! I'm a mixture of annoyed that I was given duff info months ago and stressed as I can't afford any delays at the moment (mainly due to needing to get to weathertight stagepayment!) I'm resigned to having to chase engineer on Monday but hoping I might get some ideas / reassurance before then that I don't have to go the extreme of stripping the roof to move a rafter 45mm!!!

should have windows and doors fitting by some point next week then time to tape to finish them off. Will post update on how I get on.

thanks everyone for replies. I've decided to go with some of the Garband split tape and see how that goes.

Hi All, I'm looking for recommendations for a good airtight tape for sealing window/door frames (Alu) to ICF (EPS). Seems to be lots of potential options but I was wondering what you guys have used? Also how "easy" a job was it? is it worth spending extra to get split backing on the tape to save time/get a better corner detail? any hints/tips/lessons learned? Basically after talking to the fitter I've come to the conclusion that I'd rather do the sealing myself mainly to know it's done right! Also any recommendations on suppliers to buy from (which I guess will be done of product chosen!) Thanks A.