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Posts posted by garrymartin
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14 minutes ago, BotusBuild said:
The decoiler is a heavy piece of kit and I shudder to think what the transport/postage costs would be.
If it's under 30KG, I usually use ParcelForce express48 for £20.40 or £21.90 with signature. Maximum parcel dimensions are also pretty good.
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1 hour ago, JohnMo said:
Sorry no clue to the real answer, but don't sockets have to be a minimum given distance from the floor, so wheel chair users etc can use them? So are you allowed floor sockets?
I believe the Part M document refers to "wall-mounted sockets" in relation to the minimum distances. AFAIK, floor-mounted sockets are still allowed, but always best to check with your BCO for their guidance.
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1 hour ago, -rick- said:
This seems like a good deal for good quality cat6.
It is.
And if you have multiple different cabling uses (network, cctv, TV distribution, etc.) it comes in a wide variety of colours. It seems to be a favourite of many high-end installers.
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3 hours ago, DavidO said:
Very interesting Garry, thank you! The landvac u value is amazing for that thickness. Do you know how it compares from a cost perspective?
I don't have detailed comparisons, but my understanding is that depending on various factors, it can be 50% to 200% or more expensive than standard double glazing. If you're really restricted from a listed building approval perspective, that may be something that's financially palatable though.
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Oh, also, something else I learned on Buildhub from @Dan1983 is Astragal bars which are decorative, surface-mounted strips applied to both the inside and outside of double or triple-glazed window panes to create the authentic, subdivided appearance of traditional small-paned Georgian windows. They might be useful for your situation, given your original images.
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Take a look at https://historicengland.org.uk/images-books/publications/adapting-historic-buildings-energy-carbon-efficiency-advice-note-18/ released in February 2026.
I also recently learned about vacuum double glazing when I was looking at similar issues on listed buildings. Might be of interest if you can't get approval for standard double glazing.
https://www.vacuumglazing.co.uk/landvac-enhance-heritage-vacuum-glazing/
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CAT6 will do 10Gbps so long as the cable isn't very long (37-55m max generally).
You can't go wrong with TruHD Cat 6 HDBaseT Cable - tested to 500MHz, so good for 10Gbps if needed.
Details and pricing - https://www.fscables.com/products/cat-6-hdbaset.html
Datasheet - https://www.fscables.com/sites/admin/plugins/elfinder/files/fscables/Datasheets/C6T00-E00.pdf
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I've got another couple of choices in my notes...
# Selectric FRB-4 2 Gang 47mm Galvanised Steel Back Box – Earths – Fire Rated
**SKU** FRB-4
# Niglon FR472 2 Gang 47mm Dry Lining Fire Rated Metal Back Box
SKU: FR472
https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/product/niglon-fr472-2-gang-47mm-dry-lining-fire-rated-metal-back-box/ -
My notes say it's recommended to be not more than 2.5 TOG. Also in my notes, @JohnMo put it best from a physics perspective - "Insulated below at a higher thermal resistance to whatever is above the floor to ensure heat moves upwards not downwards".
So whilst the ground-floor bedroom and sitting room might be OK sitting on 150mm insulation, you may find that your chosen carpet provides enough insulation on the first floor that the heat radiates downwards instead of upwards.
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I'm with @G and J and @Conor with regards to using the bay window area as the access to a new master suite. I'd be inclined to see if you could lose a little more space in the existing bedroom so that you could run a wall of wardrobes opposite the bay window. It's currently shown as 1.37m - if you extended that by a mere 130mm you would have a 900mm corridor, and a 600mm deep bank of wardrobes. That way, your corridor becomes even more functional as a dressing room leading into your master suite. Depends on how close your existing bedroom door is to the stairs, but it might be possible. I would also look at differing arrangements of your master bed position, window position, and the ensuite "block" to create something that flows a little better and looks more pleasant visually.
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1 hour ago, dpmiller said:
technical info says otherwise?
OK. They will cut through a nail, but you reduce the working life of the bit. From the "Tech-Tips" at the bottom of the page - "
- When encountering a metal object, if possible reposition the drilled hole. Continued drilling with the Nail-Proof WoodBeaver will reduce it’s working life"
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Armeg Nail-Proof Wood Beaver bits
https://armeg.com/products/nail-proof-woodbeaver/
But, to be clear, they won't cut through nails; they will just survive hitting them. So once you hit a nail or screw, you either need to remove it or you need to re-position your hole.
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Personally, I'd scrap the PIR and Impey Waterguard and put 60mm Marmox straight to the slab with tile adhesive (possibly another 10mm on top at 90-degree depending on existing floor height). Stick the UFH mat on top of that. A couple of conduits with temperature sensors in them (one for backup).Self-levelling compound over it (fibre reinforced). Tile on top of that. You'll probably end up very close to the height of your other flooring, and it will be a very straightforward buildup.
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42 minutes ago, sjmtlewy said:
We're right at the beginning, not even applied for planning permission yet.
Does your plot have *any* permission on it? If not, you need to start right there.
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8 minutes ago, -rick- said:
That one makes my spidey senses tingle. As in is it a dodgy Chinesium one?
It was just an example. To be honest, I don't know how they can sell a 25m extension cable with 2.5mm2 cores for that price. Costs more than that to buy just the cable! But heh, it's a UK company, and has both CE and UKCA marking. Might just be a bargain!
(NOTE they also sell it as a kit with a 5kVA 110V transformer, so specifically for the purpose @saveasteading is looking to us it)
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Something like this; 2.5mm2 3-core with 4 sockets https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Blue-Extension-Lead-Cable/dp/B0FVZH1JQD
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59 minutes ago, saveasteading said:
is it as simple as this, or 2 of these\?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-ldct2513bq-4-xd-13a-4-gang-25m-cable-reel-240v/54615
The cable used in those is listed as 1.25mm2 - you should go for something much heavier duty. Minimum 2.5mm2 considering the distance and use.
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Have you looked at different brands of pattress boxes? Perhaps another brand has the same layout holes?
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Take a look at this... https://www.e-paint.co.uk/colour-alternatives.asp?cRange=BS+4800/5252&cRef=18+B+29&cDescription=Raven
RAL 7024 seems to be the closest Classic RAL match, but note it only has two stars, which means "close, but distinguishable". I have the RAL K7 Classic fandeck and RAL 7024 only seems to have a very slight blue tinge to my eye. As @Bonner notes, 7015 might also be a match for you, depending on your finish. It's slightly lighter than 7024 but still has that slight blue tinge.
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Do you have a spare piece of the roofing? Take it to a decent paint shop that does colour matching. They will probably have the RAL charts available.
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2 minutes ago, Gballam said:
Yes I’m not sure why the first floor looks to be wider than ground - it will be ever so slightly due to the metal cladding but not as it looks here. We thought running the metal cladding down around the front door projection would help the two sections mesh together better. It’s the same as the roof - not the orange Corten.
Here are the other versions from the architect…
Great designs by the way. Based on your first design posted, I would have suggested losing the window to the plant room (needed?) and widening the vertical entrance and glazing to balance things out a little on that elevation. Interesting to see that in these designs, there is no plant room window, and in the first alternate, the vertical entrance glazing is widened... 😉
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There's a webinar on Youtube from National Grid about the project. It's basically for retrofit. The idea is that when properties need to be upgraded to support EV charging and heat pump usage, they would provide three-phase at the boundary, and then you can cable to the EV charger and heat pump *externally* without having to go into the house and then back out again. They would just disconnect your single-phase cabling to the house, and then reconnect it to one of the phases in the new three-phase boundary location.



Mounting heavy cabinet
in General Joinery
Posted
The biggest IKEA Hemmes bathroom cabinet I can find still weighs less than 40KG. Even when loaded up, there are plenty of fixings that will work without you having to cut out plasterboard.
As @Russell griffiths suggests, toggle fixings would work, but I prefer to use GripIt Plasterboard Fixings. They're available at places like Toolstation or Amazon, and come in varying sizes depending on the load you're fixing. The 25mm versions can handle 113KG - see https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/