daiking

as I just suggested, this is all moot then! However, if using quarter turn isolation valves on the cistern supply I suppose you could not open them fully to provide some flow restriction. (Until you need to close it and find it seized part open)

a very wet room Do you struggle with empathy Dave? Wives, children, plughole fairies, you name it. Still, I'd have to be convinced that a typical overflow will discharge the equivalent of mains pressure water as it is direct delivered. Said wives, children, plughole fairies only operate quarter-turn taps in a binary fashion. 0 = tap off 1 = flooding the bathroom with splashback

Double checked so as not to look (even more of) an idiot. Even filled them up to the point of overflow when I bottled it and stopped the tap/opened the waste. No overflow on 2 basins.

I shall investigate further...

It's a serious question. Why are they no longer a standard feature on a basin? We have 2 like this. I use the term designer loosely, as in not a traditional round basin shape.

Why? This is just an accident waiting to happen

In the picture the 2 loose cables on the left are for lighting and the cable clipped to the joist along its length is another power cable. This is the one Dave suggests is unclipped and left on the plasterboard

To be honest I'm not sure if its ring or radial or whether that would make a difference. It is only this one cable that is trapped by the joist that I am really concerned about. Also aware about accessible cable connections and MF for inaccessible. If I did lengthen the cable, I'd probably run the cable along the purlin way above the insulation. As such, although its the loft, I understand I could use standard screw terminal JBs as it is accessible. This or this would be fine? http://www.screwfix.com/p/chocbox/54936 http://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692h

No offence to electrician's here but they're all daft. That's what the book says but in the real world, what should I do? Over? Under? Putting the cables in contact with something as a heat sink (spare UFH spreader plate)? Chop and add a length with JBs either end?

The transverse cable is through a hole in each joist so cannot be laid on the ceiling.

But this is new build... christ the 1960s wiring didn't even give me a socket in every room. back to cable placement, is under insulation ok?

So it shouldn't slope back toward the fan? Drooping toward the vent but will it not pool at the vent end? By the time I've got the second layer of loft roll in the duct will probably be at the same level so I'll probably cover it with insulation to reduce condensation but I've not idea how much will get trapped.

How can you tell? Was she wearing a crown? Dressed like Freddie Mercury?

Fan in bathroom ceiling (white), tile vent in roof (brown). Not aligned and close to the eaves so not much height to play with. Also need to insulate this space. thinking that flexible duct between the 2 will be messy and just create a lute to go rancid. wondering whether an option would be to use a length of flat duct (with 90degree round connectors) between them and flexible duct just to make the final connections

Homeowner 1 Wasps 0 Seems like there's no activity now, cold snap and wasp powder should have done for them. Spent the afternoon laying the first lot of insulation which has made a massive difference already.

Why do electricians never allow enough slack on loft cables so they can be raised above 300mm of insulation. Its not as if 10”-12” of fluff is the cheapest and quickest way to meet a government requirement, oh wait… I’m not too fussed about the lights, low load, yadda, yadda. However the electric sockets for this room are distributed via the loft not under the floor. I’m not sure if it’s a radial or a ring main circuit. One of the cables has actually been fed through a hole in the ceiling joists. This seems like complete *******ery to me, when all the other cables are laid above the joists. As well as the unnecessary damage to the joists it makes it difficult to lay the insulation as there’s a 50mm gap between the cable and the ceiling. I either squeeze the 100mm loft roll under it and lay 200mm above it or just put the full 300mm over it leaving a small air pocket under the cable. As I understand it, the cables should be in contact with a surface like the ceiling or a joist OR they should be open to the air so as not to overheat. Although you would normally consider a bedroom to be a low electrical load room – I must consider the use of more than one high load device: hair dryer, straighteners, curlers, rollers, iron etc. I’ve slapped 100mm of roll over it for the moment as it was bloody cold without it but I wonder what is ALARP before I put the other 200mm over it?

That's why its a job for me and hopefully I won't need a sparky for this. There is already a cable (T&E) from the CU for smokes. AFAIK Yes.

Aico definitely seems to be the way to go. I don’t want to go wireless because of the cost and the wireless thing when I’m sure an electrician could easily figure something out – up through the original wall cavity into the loft is probably the best bet at the moment to connect to location 2. I’ve got the Aico fitting instructions for locating near walls and on slopes etc but kitchens should be heat sensors not optical/ionisation sensors and I’m not sure that it will be effective in the planned location although it will be within 5m and don’t really want to run a cable round in trunking to another location. And I need to think about locating a reset/kill switch…

I have now managed to, during other works, run a 3&E cable from point 1 to point 5 to point 3 to point 2. I could have the semblance of a functioning alarm system at this rate. Just need to decide detector type and position of a couple, 3 being the most confusing, on the 'soffit' from the kitchen vaulted ceiling. Number 4 is tricky and I don't know how to get to it as it is in the new part of the house and will be messy to get at. I don't think its needed but I would prefer one in there as the master bedroom is above and the gas boiler, washing machine and tumble dryer are all int here.

All done bar the shouting now. Just waiting for the plaster to dry before decorating. Loads of stuff I coulda/shoulda done at the time but wasn't worth the hassle. Removed some redundant piping and pulled my smoke alarm cable through which are a good start.

No sympathy from me. Kill them, kill them all. I'll probably leave the nest as its supposed to deter them in future.

To answer my own question, mostly dead. Not the thousands of dead wasps I expected and a nest the size of a space hopper. A few hundred dead bodies and there's a balloon sized nest tucked in the ridge near the brickwork. Small amount of moisture, well wasp shit, below it. Noticed one or two still twitching so went and got the Raid AND powder. Blasted it and a short time later started to hear some buzzing within the nest. I have repaired to a safe distance until tomorrow. I now have phantom itchiness as though a wasp has crept onto my person and is toying with me before stinging me. I am going to have nightmares tonight about being b***-f***** by a 6 foot wasp.

Luckily (?) the loft has not been insulated yet but it's getting cold this week so really I want to get up there, clear whatever mess and lay some insulation even if it's only 100mm to start with.

Do you think the wasps are dead yet?

I like mine but we have no air tightness target and I have no idea where they come from. No brush seals, all angled rubber seals. They are not noticeably draughty but they are very sheltered.