MikeGrahamT21

I haven’t, but I know they are top end passivhaus certified, saw them in passive house plus magazine. They certainly used to sell in england they do both PVC and Ali clad timber from memory

Have you looked at Munster Joinery? Triple glazing is become far more common these days, but unfortunately manufacturers are using it to their own advantage so they can sell poorly performing frames and still be inside the regulations. Also pay attention to the gap size between the panes, they can be too small and not give any benefit, and also too large which allows convection to occur. but to answer your question, a good double vs a good triple, yes you will undoubtedly notice the difference, I know I certainly do. But the problem comes as above if you compare a good double vs a poor triple, the double would likely be the best option

Anything specific you don't know the answer to? You may find it easier to use the web portal to do this: https://buildingcontrol.planningportal.co.uk/

Swear I’m getting slower at this DIY lark! been a very turbulent month and a bit, about a week after I last posted in this thread my dad passed away, and with funeral and starting to sort the mass of stuff in his house, the days have zipped by at a rate of knots. coinciding with what I always find the most difficult part of these jobs, getting the floor structure down, balancing definitely isn’t a strong point! cut out the last of the woodwormed joists and decided to replace everything under there again even though quite a few were new from around 10 years ago, it was the first room I’d done and wasn’t prepared for what I found so the ones I took out were untreated, now replaced with treated. topped up the floor insulation with another 20mm to go with the existing 70mm, new 22mm chipboard, and sorted both heating and supply pipes along with drainage for the shower. be a few weeks now til I get some time to do the first batch of plastering, but I’m just happy it’s starting to look a bit more like a room rather than a building site. Stumbled across a brilliant airtight primer this time too, Tescon's SPrimer, which is a sprayable primer. Saves killing a paintbrush, and is so easy to apply, but its a little smelly for a few days. I've still got a bit of the paint on primer, but don't think i would have had enough to complete the job, managed to get a can off ebay from someone who had finished their works and was selling excess off.

K5 has a fabric coating to accept render/adhesive on both sides, and is also made from phenolic foam rather than polyisocyanurate, which is marginally better at insulating

yeah the solicitor sent us a copy of the title deed once he’d done the work so I’ve got it straight from the horses mouth as it were. I’ve lived on this street all of my life and dads house is only a few doors down, so I’ve gone with a top end estimate based upon prices of others which have sold recently, even if it were another 50% higher than that it still wouldn’t touch IHT, primarily because he didn’t own the whole thing, and indeed may have only owned 33% given that no split is detailed on the title deeds.

Ahh yeah that makes sense. Will see what land registry's response is and take it from there i guess, and crack on with probate as we need it anyway. Thanks for your replies, and hopefully will help someone else out in future too!

Yeah it was done around 3months following her death, so its around 8 years in total since it was varied. I've just had a look at the title deed which the solicitor sent us, and to be honest there are no proportions listed, we are simply all named under Title Absolute, point 1, with both names and address. If this means that it is equally split then maybe that simplifies the process I think the rent free bit may have been done in a different way... No disposition by a sole proprietor, so no one person can sell, unless authorised by a court it states. So i guess the authorised by a court would be probate?

Indeed ratio was 50:25:25 with an exception that Dad could live there rent free, til the end of his life. All i've done so far is send this form (https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/deceased-joint-proprietor-djp) along with a copy of the Death certificate (which they've since returned) to the land registry, and awaiting next steps, so it sounds like i'll need to do the Assent as a next step. Both me and my brother are executors to the estate. I've ran everything through the IHT calculator on the gov website, and it states nothing is due. No we didn't do any declarations of trust as part of it, a solicitor just did a variation of the will of my mother. Looking at the Assent form, thats getting a bit beyond my knowledge, so we will have to involve a solicitor in that to fill it out for us, but it does suggest that Probate needs to be completed before you can do it, so I'll ensure that gets submitted ASAP The will is a real simple one, basically everything that was Dads, goes to me and brother 50/50 split, but yes you are right, it was 50:25:25. Good to know we can at least get the ball rolling on that front whilst the legals go through in the background, this was the main thing I needed to know to start off with.

Hi, Tried searching the web for an answer to this one and can't find anything relevant, but it must have happened previously. When my Mum died 8 years ago, me and Dad varied her will to put her half of the property in mine and my brothers name, leaving the remaining 50% in my dads name, all three of us are named on the title deeds at Land Registry. Dad died around a month ago, and since then i've sent the land registry form off to have his name removed from the title deeds, leaving just me and my brother as owners. My question is, at this point are we legally allowed to put it on the market for sale, or do we need to wait for probate to come through? Dads 50% has been included in the IHT calculation, for which we are not liable. Hoping someone has come across this before... Cheers Mike

always printed side to where you want the moisture to go, think of how it’s used on a roof

A few bits which i'm not quite sure I'd agree with here... Marmox is in no way strong enough to go on top of the joists and under the chipboard/OSB layer, it would get crushed in the areas of contact, once a lot of weight is put on the floor. You would have to put this layer on top of chipboard/OSB layer and either top with 10mm self leveller compound if you are to use carpet, or by using a wood flooring/engineered wood/LVT/Laminate, and use a thin 2mm EPS under the solid flooring to prevent it touching the rough cement layer on the Marmox. I'm using Marmox under underfloor heating in bathroom, and me just kneeling on it has left a few dents, so it definitely needs something else to spread load. No, do not use Marmox for this purpose, it is only XPS insulation sandwiched between two 1mm reinforced cement layers, it is not designed for point loads such as sitting on joists, and needs to be fully supported. You need to use specific tape which is 'plaster-in', such as https://www.airstop.co.uk/product-page/airstop-flex-fee You will need a primer to put on the block/brick work first, and then tape your membrane down with this style tape. You are then ready to plaster in. Most primers are paint on, however I have just discovered Tescon's SPrimer, which is spray primer, though i've yet to use it so can't comment on how good/bad it is.

yeah replacement is definitely on the cards, especially while the old bathroom floor is up. I replaced all of the TRVs when I redid the heating pipes and installed the manifold, which would have been maybe 2016? Not lasted very long, others all seem OK touch wood. I’ll bet your accident wasn’t a laughing matter at the time but was afterwards, done similar things myself and had to chuckle later down the line

😂 yeah I’d rather not have my very own black water feature in the living room. I did start undoing the plastic one a couple of weeks back and nothing happened but I chickened out and did it back up again. What happened to you?

Hi, one of my TRVs is leaking, only slightly but had to keep some kitchen roll around it to stop it going anywhere like the carpet. water is coming out of the pin and there appears to be two nuts, one plastic and one brass. would I be right assuming that if I remove either one of these pressurised water will escape? is it likely a repair (I’m thinking it probably just needs some PTFE tape on it) would be effective or would it be easier just changing the valve entirely? cheers Mike

Don't replace based on aesthetics, thats an awful waste in an already wasteful world. When they're on the roof you don't really see them anyway unless you specifically look.

Someone comes out to view the system physically, including the meter once every 2 years, guy came here about 2 weeks back

As above, the licensee is allowed to interpret the rules in their own way, i've been through all this before between ofgem and british gas, and ofgem specifically told me that their guidance is open to interpretation and not enforced as such. This is the current guidance to licensees: https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/sites/default/files/2024-04/FIT Guidance for Licensed Electricity Suppliers V17.pdf However, this is what i got from Ofgem: The decision ultimately lies with the FIT Licensee in accordance with this guidance.

The licensee is Octopus in your case. im not sure how they pro-rata the payments for generation, but it must be some standard equation they apply. I know these rules did get updated recently to account for failing equipment etc. the important thing here is the rated capacity, if you swap out current panels with brand new ones totalling up to the same capacity then in theory nothing should change and you’ll get paid for everything you generate, in theory, but it’s all a bit of a grey area and you’ll find that ofgem has one set of rules, and your licensee is allowed to interpret them in their own way so could be quite different. the change of equipment I believe has to be approved by both ofgem and the licensee so you should be able to find out what changes if any before placing any orders.

From memory the new one was from the economy range and the existing one on the inner leaf is absolutely huge, so if that’s the case then both will be min 30mins. @nod What kind of mesh will I need for the job? Expanded metal? Thanks Mike

As title really, I’m used to steel lintels requiring additional protection in the form of plasterboard, but do concrete lintels need the same or can I just go straight in with bonding coat? Thanks!

Looks like your missing the cill, but outside pic will confirm

Please post some photos of the installation and where the water leaks, will help us try and figure out whats happening

Thank you, he looks to be suffering greatly at the moment, 1st bowel cancer around 17 years ago, which recurred another 3 times, now has a stoma but it’s spread to a kidney and he’s lymphoma too, horrible to see, he didn’t even have the energy to talk to me other day when I was visiting 😞 he’s done so so well bless him. I’ve got him to thank for my interest in DIY and building, he was a builder back in the day before the cancer got him

Life can be absolutely brutal at times, be kind to yourself and take things at your own pace. Hope the job hunt has proved successful for you? I’ve been on with my renovations for approx 16 years now, have always found it helpful to have something positive to focus my energy on, and in that time I’ve lost my mum, my wife and currently my dad is very ill in hospital with terminal cancer; I’ve often forgotten to be kind to myself along the way. Sending best wishes