MikeGrahamT21

Just looks like its a zinc roof which goes round it, can't see anything different other than that

Absolutely, like I said ChatGPT output isn’t 100%. Given the likely cost of these thermally isolated brackets and the overkill, it’s likely I’ll use a timber structure behind the cladding to space out the wall and also hold the insulation, which will be one layer horizontal, next layer vertical etc until the vertical cladding

yeah have considered horizontal, have always had a preference visually for vertical. Think vertical should be easier too as the longest length wouldn’t be even half as long as the widest for horizontal. I got some samples from millboard of their new cladding range, but wasn’t overly keen and they couldn’t guarantee it would last even 10 years but said it should last much longer. I will certainly be looking at cement cladding boards too before I decide. Did consider uPVC but someone across the street from me has it on their dormer and it’s warped and split all over, so that’s out. timber would be hardwood or modified softwood and would then get no further treatment from me, I quite like the silvered look it gains over the years.

Damn I didn't realise ChatGPT was this capable... Admittedly its not 100% perfect, but credit where credit's due! U-Value is wrong, but thats my fault as I didn't tell it that its a cavity walled property. It also has an obsession with the thermally isolated brackets, probably a bit overkill for this really.

Noted, the membrane will be behind the battens so will be a 25mm gap for ventilation. Yeah have got some mesh from another job which will be perfect for this

Yes absolutely, they’ll be extended through the cladding. I got messing with chatGPT yesterday, this is what I’m aiming for im probably overthinking it with regards the structure, just want to be sure before I start as I’m going to have to get some scaffolding put up to do it

Really need to start planning the final part of the external insulation, which is going to be topped with timber/composite cladding (haven't decided yet). This is a photo of the area to be clad, its not huge. To the right hand side, the lean to roof meets the soffits, so nothing to match here, but on the left hand side there is the existing EWI i did a few years back, which will be around 100-110mm thick, so the timber cladding needs to be a little bit more, to overlap this, the dream scenario would be the frame behind will be the same depth as the EWI, and then the timber cladding will sit nicely over the EWI for a couple of cm's. And thinking of overlapping the lead flashing below to protect where it enters the brickwork. This bit will also get insulated as part of the job (figure I may as well since everything else is done), in case the loft ever gets converted (unlikely but you never know). My initial idea was to use 2 layers of crossing timbers, each layer filled with rockwool insulation, breather membrane, battens and then the final finish cladding. Do I need anything from a structural engineer for this? BCO are clueless around here, haven't asked for anything, so this is more for my sanity. The floodlight and sensor are already disconnected, and just need removing, the vents are staying for the MVHR. I've approached a few cladding companies, but so far none have even replied, but i'd rather do it myself anyway, least i know its done right then! Any thoughts? Ideas? Comments? Cheers Mike

yeah I plan to, it’s still all cleared out at the moment, been some heavy downpours last couple of days. when I moved everything out there was a tiny spot of what felt like water but nothing more than that, I did repair the roof membrane whilst I was up so hopefully that will have cured it. annoying as I only did that small section of roof 2 years ago and it’s a pig to get on to!

I wonder if both have had a go then, that grey papery stuff was a complete, like giant acorn shaped thing, but it fell apart when i moved it. All from the same area. Thanks for the reply. I'll let it all dry out and ensure no more leaks before i put everything back in place insulation wise.

Some more photos of the bits I took out

Happy Bank Holiday Monday everyone! so was just walking through the smaller bedroom which I’m in and out of regularly during the week as I work from home in there, and noticed a dreaded stain on the ceiling along a plasterboard joint 😭🙈 went up in the loft to have a look, of course this is right under the eaves, where else!? Now I think from memory of a time in my dads loft, this is the work of bees? something has nibbled a couple of holes in the roof membrane which I will patch up, the insulation did have moisture on it under the holes and you can see the timber and insulation that I’ve removed is very wet, but it’s sticky and matted. Also found some grey coloured nests, only small, maybe 5cm diameter, and a few what look like outer casings whatever the young grow in. can get a photo of those other bits if needs be, just having a breather for 5 mins of course I will leave this all open now until it’s fully dried out before putting anything back, but the membrane is going to get some airtight tape on it, just sprayed some tescon sprimer to give maximum adhesion. any insight greatly received! thanks!

Not sure if anyone has one of these systems, i'd considered it but they were too expensive at the time, glad now. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cn539rwe330o Always ran low on cash reserves apparently

I think I only spent around £1.8k on my entire system, got the unit off eBay cheap and did all the install myself, but if the cost was £7k that’s what I’d be getting out the two

You are comparing apples to strawberries, they both do entirely different things. If I had to choose where to spend my £7k, it would be MVHR every time. The air quality and comfort you get from one is very hard to describe and quantify, but very real. Besides, grants are coming in for A2A HP's soon so you might be able to get one retrofitted later under that if you want cooling/heating from an AC unit

You need 150mm from the finished level of your oversite to the bottom of your floor (whether that be joists or B&B). so as long as you’ve got at least that amount there’s no need to dig down. Obviously it must be lower than your DPC, but that will come naturally with the 150mm measurement Edit: just seen you’re going full concrete slab, so you’ll need plenty of space for insulation below your finished slab. I’m not sure what the minimum recommended thickness for concrete slab is but I’m sure someone will know on here

By July 2026 according to what they said, so knowing our government could be 2027! 😂 I’ve already got battery storage, CT is on the main feed in/out of the bungalow, so would assume plugging one of these in would just simply add to the input on whichever ring it’s on, and if it’s not required for load, either charge the battery or be exported? I get SEG payments currently for export via my normal solar install from many years ago

Wonder how that will work for us existing solar panel owners with export in place, if we want a top up device?

I also considered membrane, but decided against it, as it would have been near on impossible to install and get good enough to say its a proper membrane. Instead I opted to put rigid PUR boards between the joists with a foil membrane on the warm side, just to temper any moisture passing, and then topped this with further wool, and used loft legs. Loft is cold, as i live in a bungalow too, and can't say there has been any issues, been installed for a good few years now. I did cock up while taking the photos, probably as i was absolutely nackered doing it, and forgot to take a photo showing the semi rigid pipes, it went on top of the PUR, under the wool, ideally would go against plasterboard, but never going to happen when you are going across the joists, so may as well be straight. I never did do the part 1 of that, not sure i even had any photos of it! 🤣

The couple that I had with these cavity closers in, i used a sheet of plasterboard, but rather than using dot and dab, i spread a full bed of adhesive on to prevent any gaps, and the cavity closers were also taped to the blockwork

I don’t know how timber windows are fitted with glazing units, but hopefully there will be some kind of beading holding the pane in and that’s all that will need removing.

The glazing units seal has failed, allowing moisture into the gaps. Only fix for triple glazing is to replace the glazed units with new. As they are so new, you should be covered by the warranty, and these should be replaced FoC

MDF every time, far more stable than natural timber. Once used Pine skirting, never again! Had to nail it every 600 just to keep it on the wall while the adhesive set. Mine has been in years, painted, looks the same as the day i did it

If you are wanting to go high performance, something like Marmox Thermoblocks can be used at the wall/floor level to prevent thermal bridging, much better than aircrete, but for the rest of the construction go with dense blocks, they're robust, don't crack easily, no silly rules for wet plastering, and also keep the temperature balanced out over the year (thermal mass! yes i said it!)

Its technologies are fine, I’ve bought from them in the past. the fogstar batteries are cheaper, lots rave about them but I’ve no experience using them personally

the latest round of green subsidies include this as part of it, and available to anyone not just those on low income. If you are on low income you may even get it for free https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/what-the-warm-homes-plan-means-for-you/