MikeGrahamT21

They should have had an add on uPVC profile when they realised they were short, unfortunately that would now mean a deinstall and reinstall. As Nick says though it can be sorted with correct foam and PVC trims

I originally had a bosch PBH2000 which lasted me for many years, until it started spewing oil everywhere, was going to replace the oil but the main seal had a bit snap off, so decided to get a new one. On paper the new one (HiKoKi) is almost double the power of the old one, but in reality i still think the old bosch one was far more powerful, so just goes to show the specs don't always tell the full story.

Good luck with the purchase, hope it all goes smoothly. you’ll thank yourself for living a stones throw away from your parents, it certainly saves on a lot of stress and time when looking after the oldies, but on the flip side selling their property isn’t quite so nice which I’m in the middle of now with my dads bungalow, still think on balance it’s more a good thing

You're best option is probably to have a small CU which is fed by the 10mm old shower cable, as you'll only need 16A MCB for the battery, and the appropriate cable, gives the option of running other loads on separate circuits from this additional CU

Wouldn’t trade my FiT for anything. you’d never find another 20 year (or whatever you’ve left) contract, only takes them to pull it and you’ve lost everything. looking at their product, which I’ve never heard of, it seems this is a free add on to FiT so that would all stay the same, for maybe £10-20 extra per year, money for nothing perhaps definitely warrants further research

Brass and mild steel for sure, recently taken an old heating pump out made of mild steel, and the brass had eaten away at it over the years, brass was in good nick after a clean.

It’s been flawless since the day it went in, still amazes me when I go outside and they’ve been burning stuff on the farms nearby, inside you would never know. No noticeable noise increase, my unit is fairly small though since it’s only serving around 72m2 and the cleanbox is rated for a much higher throughput. it did take 3 attempts at getting a unit which was completely intact with all the rivets where they should be, hopefully that will have just been bad luck

For us maybe, but for businesses a shock outcome would be anything other than labour and conservative, they can mostly guess the policies of the two major parties

Yeah definitely election anxiety, keeping money in the pot in case some shock outcome had come true, I too have seen it in the education sector, being an IT engineer is usually a very busy time over august holidays, but not so for us this year

The T&G PIR boards are designed as full fill with approx a 5mm gap, I used xtratherm ones on my latest build, now unilin but these ones are the same. have a look at their install guides, there will be buildup examples, but I know it’s full fill as it was one I’d considered using myself

As the title really, got some replacement door slabs, one of which has glazing in it, and noticed that the sticker stating this side to face the outside (which is the patterned glass in autumn leaf) is facing inside, as is the same glazing on two other external doors I’ve got. any reason why it’s been installed back to front? Surely 3 separate slabs can’t all be wrong? had a window a while back which I’ve recently taken out and this was also autumn leaf, but had the pattern to the outside with smooth surface to inside which I’m 99.9% sure is right as the flat surface is where the low e coating is. anyone know if there’s a valid reason for this on the door?

You’ll like need to lose the sunny home manager to do what you want to do. I have a sunny boy sb4000 as my solar inverter, and Solis ac connected inverter for the battery, the Solis manages what goes in and out and when it happens, you wouldn’t need the home manager. hope it helps, see my blog posts on my system maybe they will help too

Minimum 10C difference between in and out apparently, for the best images

Current best ones for phones are Topdon TC01/02 and Infiray P2 Pro, both of which use the same hardware, but the Topdon has a battery built in also. I'm planning on getting an Infiray P2 Pro soon to get to the finer details of the thermal improvement journey

Exposing the clay pipe is doable, I’ve had to tap into a few in my time on my 60s bungalow. all depends how they were put in, back then if done correctly, the clay pipe should be surrounded by some plastic, like a thick plastic bag, and then the concrete, so in theory they should remain separated, but isn’t always the case and a few of mine needed extra work. until you manage to expose a bit you won’t know what your dealing with. As above also make sure your tapping into the right drain for your needs

Consider SPC LVT rather than the normal stuff, it’s a lot stronger and tends to have integrated underlay, this is what I used in bathroom recently and it was good stuff to work with

I’ve got a blauberg Cleanbox, it’s still on its first carbon filter 3 years in, and has done a cracking job, not had any smoke smells since it went in. the other filters have been replaced once, a new G4 and then replaced the F7 with a H15, but agreed they are expensive. I too found the Comfowell, but not til after I’d got this one. It’s available in the UK from Paul HR direct - https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/product-category/mvhr-ducting/comfowell-modular-air-manifold-silencer-system/ id probably have gone for that just based on cost if I’d found it sooner!

Looks like the very same lintels i have, ideal homes build by any chance? So the inner lintels if they are the same as mine will be chamfered toward the outer leaf, meaning no chance of leaving it there without it touching any concrete outer lintel. How are you resizing? Are the openings getting smaller or bigger? If smaller, then they can stay as they are, they would only need removing if you were going bigger. I opted not to touch these lintels due to their size, and they'll be a good 200KG plus in weight

Best thing you’ll ever do, MVHR

If the cavity isn’t already filled with something this will need doing prior to EWI. otherwise I don’t see a need for any airtight works in the cavity itself (and it would be almost impossible to do successfully), it won’t be open to the room, the cavity should be closed at the reveal, if it isn’t this needs doing using a cavity closer. remember your airtight layer is in most cases the inner most layer of your fabric buildup.

Is there a reason why you can’t switch to a non combustible insulation material all round that area? Maybe your planning on using insulated plasterboard? If your set on PIR, maybe think about some kind of metal plate behind the stove to deflect some of the heat, and leave a gap behind it for airflow

Just been reading through my last post from end of May, and thinking how on earth did it take me so long to get to this one 🤣 A lot of blood, sweat, tears and swearing later, and i've finally finished the bathroom, which has exceeded what I imagined i might be able to create, I still keep walking in and thinking, naaa this can't be my bathroom. So another room brought to a close 🙂 Those panels on the wall were actually meant for the living room, sound absorbing panels for the home cinema, but despite having ordered 'Natural' and them looking off white on the internet, they came with a blue tinge to them so wouldn't have gone. When i asked for a refund, they didn't want them back and just sent me the money, so I thought they'd be useful in the bathroom, and have massively dampened the echo in there. Aside from not plastering the sloped ceiling, everything else you see internally i've done myself, including the cabinets, which I really enjoy making, i took woodwork at GCSE but was at school at the time when IT was just getting going and consequently we were all pushed down that route. Walls are painted with F&B Ammonite, and the ceiling is F&B Wevet, mixed by Johnstones Trade Best success? Probably trusting myself to measure 4 times, cut once, and actually get it right for once...The solid oak top on the toilet/sink back, £130 alone that cost me, but it came out bang on! Total cost for everything was just a shade under £4k. Onto my new snug next which is actually well underway, but i'll post another entry when its all done and dusted in a month or two's time!

Is the cable run direct? Does it go via a patch panel or is it just a cable terminated at both ends? Any punch down modules on the ends? Any electrical cables running nearby? (they can cause interference, especially if the cable isn't shielded twisted pair, most is unshielded (UTP) as its much cheaper)

Have a look at this guys blog, he did a similar thing and has lots of data both with and without buffer: https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/

Unfortunately it would go in landfill if you disposed of it either in your bin or at the tip. As OnOff says, also free cycle, sure there will be someone who’ll make use of it