MikeGrahamT21

Plenty of ways to meet insulation standards of today, not sure a whole load of steel is very ecological or economical, but as you rightly say you can add internal wall insulation, as long as you achieve the stated U value requirements with your build up then you are good. Just don’t forget to have the cavity pumped with blown beads too!

Isn’t the 3m3/m2.h number related to this… It’s talking about carbon emissions rather than overall efficiency, of course the lower the ACH the better it will work but also doesn’t mean it won’t work at all. https://www.passivhaustrust.org.uk/UserFiles/File/research papers/MVHR/2020.04.27-The Case for MVHR-v7.pdf it is expensive though, I’ll give it that!

I go into panic if I’m spending more than £4 a day 😬 but then I think that’s more part of being a Yorkshire man!

I suspect you’ll probably need a G100 compliant export power manager style device, to limit your export to agreed limits

What size, type is your property and how well insulated is it?

A chimney breast will have zero issues holding 25kg, an almost negligible amount given the load capacity of a double brick chimney breast. your fixing strategy is over the top too, a fixing either end would work fine, and I’d probably up that to three (one in the middle) to stop the timber sagging. Don’t bother glueing the timber to the wall, as you will only be glueing it to paint/paper. the majority of these pre-made timber mantles actually hang on the wall much like a picture frame

If your BCO are like mine, they haven't a clue what MVHR even is 🤣

You shouldn't need to change the flow rate, thats what the actuators are for. I don't have actuators on my manifold, and have to turn the clear plastic tube to alter the flow rate, but yours definitely don't look like mine. Probably worth a call to nuheat, or see if they've a manual online?

Yes absolutely, they sell kits for this which will come with the relevant butyl seal. im sure if you can get the glass dimensions you could probably do it even more DIY for much less by ordering the glass (ensure correct spec) and a roll of butyl seal. you’ll need to buy the same dimensions as it has currently, I think they did used to sell a triple glazed upgrade for the older windows but it only resulted in a 0.1Uw decrease so probably isn’t worth the extra cost

From memory the Redland 49's are slightly curved, they look like Marley Ludlow Plus to me, which are flat from top to bottom

How are the bills from this year vs last year?

I too have had this over the years, I can only think that the paint isn’t as flexible as the caulk, but I don’t remember it doing this many years ago so something must have changed either in the caulk or the paint makeup. I don’t have an answer for you though, I have just repeatedly applied paint until it covers it up, but it does take some goes to get rid of it completely. any decorators on hand to help?

Compatibility for the battery BMS, but as long as you follow the battery specs you can always setup your inverter in a custom config to match it. LiFePO4 are not the kind of batteries you find in e-scooters, they are currently the safest ones you can buy, but that’s not to say they are perfect. if you are storing it externally, you need to also consider environmental factors, heat moisture etc, far better for the battery to be in a constant environment. I’ve had my pylontech batteries in the boiler cupboard for 4 years now

The onus for any regulations is always on the home owner, though the builder/roofer should have advised really. I wouldn't worry about it, you can try and get a retrospective one, at least everything the BCO will need to see is more or less visible, or as others have said, a simple indemnity insurance policy when/if you sell

You'll need a G100 compliant inverter, some of the Solis ones are properly compliant. There are also export power managers which sit seperate as the G100 device, Solis also do one of these, but i'm not 100% how they work, as i don't have/need one. They'll probably enforce this too, so they'll come out and do a compliance check.

Think the general consensus is rather than use expensive PIR, use double the amount in EPS, and minimise the amount of hardcore underneath and concrete on top will save you a small fortune and likely give a better result overall in terms of insulation. plenty have done it on here, so sure someone will be along shortly to advise.

But how dry was the bone? 🤔

You can use any UFH thermostat with heating mat/cable, as long as it’s rated more than the load you are wanting to run, which for your area will be every one in existence. The worse the insulation underneath the floor, the less heat you’ll get out of it, but any heat which does go into the tiles which radiate into the room, it’ll certainly make a difference but how much depends on your insulation levels. be warned as well, it can be quite expensive to run. The cable itself isn’t 150w/m2, it’s the spacing of the loops that determines that, so by making 2m2 worth of cable span 4m2 your just making it 75w/m2, which will need some serious insulation to make a difference. the other side to look at is how much you want the warranty, mixing systems will most likely void any warranty

Single seals are a recipe for disaster for airtightness, i think some of the flush ones have 2 seals, but they are the same type, i.e. friction fit, so will never provide a great seal, and will be susceptible to ripping. As @Nickfromwales said, you only want to be doing windows once, they're an expensive item, so the important things are seals, frame quality (in terms of insulating factor, the number of chambers etc), and the thickness of glazing unit you can fit.

Have a really good think about the seals, and get their designs, the weakness of this type of door/window is the lack of compression seals

Call someone in to repair it? Sounds like something is drawing too much current, odds are on for the heating element, most dishwashers I think from memory have these as part of the pump, so you would be replacing the unit as a whole. doubt it’ll be the PCB but check capacitors for any swelling/leakage

Have a look at ewistore.co.uk, got a good range of gear, I haven’t used render from them but have had EWI and basecoat and it was spot on

Push it all back together and tighten it up as best you can, and then pack underneath the u-bend with whatever you can find, offcuts of timber will be ideal, so that gravity can no longer do it’s thing

I’ve had this in the past and not realised, they do a yearly catalog of all the data and get any missing bits. you end up with a bill which shows credit and charge for almost the same amounts, bar the bits they missed, it’s very messy but it is handled

if I have content without atmos it always adds virtual height, but only if the content is at least 5.1, this is the best. like you say stereo can be hit and miss but still pretty good