MikeGrahamT21

As promised, Black Friday did me well…

I know foam insulation is the gold standard for this type application. had a quick look online and can see climaflex 76mm bore for not much money, but only seems to be 9mm thickness, probably wouldn’t make a worthwhile difference for the immense amount of effort I’d need to put in to install it. hopefully my efforts yesterday which I’m paying for today will work some, there’s no gale force winds up there

temperature does have importance, during my many years of caring for my late wife and doing IV treatments at home, we were told to only ever wash hands in cold water, since warm water opens your pores which can allow any nasties to hide away, since then I’ve always washed hands with cold water

went up after work and decided to tackle it whilst it’s still cold out, doing work under the eaves is no fun at the best of times! found quite a few bits which I’ve now corrected, where the ceiling joists end was warmer than I’d expected it being, so the wool is clearly doing it’s job, was just too patchy in places, fingers crossed it’ll do the trick anyway. Managed to cut out some excess pipe too from the supply runs, around 3m in total which should help also

You were right, just been up with thermal camera and i must have moved the insulation about when doing something else, and not done a great job of putting it back. Some of the pipes are also crossing awkwardly, as i put another 2 in after the first ones. Think its going to be a weekend sorting it out! lol

I'll do some poking about first, only got the thermal camera other day, so didn't even know this was an issue. Could be that i've just made a glaring error that needs fixing lol. Personally didn't have much choice but to run in loft, without making a serious mess of everything i'd already done, not for me thanks!

its 75mm semi rigid stuff, currently buried under around 300mm of wool insulation, but the loft is cold, very cold, almost no heat from the bungalow gets up there as under the 300mm wool, there is 100mm PUR insulation board. The manifold boxes (made from metal) are also up in loft, again buried under a lot of insulation. Theres definitely improvements to be had, and those figures were at -3C outside, so loft will also have been near this. I agree though, it is a lot of heat loss, and i hope to improve on this.

Where will you be running your ducting? Mine is in cold loft, but heavily insulated so it loses a bit more temp on its way to the terminals. When it was like -3C the other week, internal temp was showing as 21.2C (extract) and the supply temp was at 19.4C, with a Vortice HR200BP unit, not sure what its rated at efficiency wise but it'll be less than the Zehnder. By time it gets to terminals its down to around 15C on a very cold day like above, i'm hoping to improve on that and have got a thermal camera to check everything, just not had time to do it yet

Soudatight dries like stretchy paper, paints over easy enough, but the fibres that are in it to give it strength tend to clump together, and you can see it through the paint, not the end of the world but if your after a good finish

16kW isn’t really much in the grand scheme of things. I can see it was hanging around 220 @ 10kw which would be just OK, lower end. You are correct, it will pull more amps to make up the wattage (P=IV from memory). Do you have accurate monitoring on multiple devices, just thinking so you can collect lots of data for them. May also be worth speaking to Octopus as they may be able to speak to UKPN and move it along. As for damage, not too sure but most devices in UK are 220-240, so I would assume there’s a possibility there. I think it’s normal to dip away a little during load as above, but not as low as you are getting. Theyll likely want you to confirm with smart meter data unless they get that on their end.

You need some of this stuff to push into the gap: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174673142912 Haven't spent time checking its cheapest, but that type.

Could be, in which case I’ve no idea what that setting means, almost seems doubled up doesn’t it?

As a guess, I’d say system charge power rate is depth of discharge, 100% will depend on what battery is attached, but in any case will shorten its lifespan, 95% is a better option. And system charge SOC limit I would guess is the lower limit at which point it pulls from the grid for a short while to prevent the charge from going too low, again prevent unnecessary damage to the cells.

10mm is better than no gap at all, ensure adequate vent openings as above and the air with get through just fine

I’m not sure if this will help your case any? https://www.labcwarranty.co.uk/technical-blog/gaps-around-windows-sealants-and-finishing-trims assuming you are expecting a FENSA certificate, it may be worth speaking to them about it to see if they have any rules to be adhered to by the fitters