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Everything posted by Ed_MK
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Well they mixed it on site ...It looked decent enough ...although it could have been "greyer" ...but they got them in ...either way its got to be an improvement on 3.6Nm Aircrete's ..? Just the kickers to go on now ..and the frame should come Monday ... Regarding hardening ...I think it will be at least 7 days before it actually carries any moderate weight and as the Frame takes 4 weeks to erect ..it should be topping out at the finish. I appreciate its a compromise ...but we are up against it time wise ...If the erectors dont start then we could be put back a month or more as another job will be shunted ....and we are already a month behind original date regarding the bridging ...I think the plan is to finish it off tomorrow to the top of the beam, not sure if there will be any damp-course on/in that ....but i suspect there should be somewhere
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Well there is one small on from the downstairs toilet ...1m and there are 2 long one s...one for the kitchen waste and gutter and one from the SVP i suppose these are over 6-7m last i seen they were covering them with pea gravel under the beam
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What do you mean by "soil runs" Nick ? The BCO is due to come out tomorrow ...EEK
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I think its a question of NEW guys on the job here. Hard working lads ..all of them ...but when i asked questions they didnt seem sure. I presume they thought that the same blocks for the exterior would suffice for the beam supports... ...until pointed out. The main man does know his stuff ...but it seems they have a several jobs on the go and so cannot devote as much time as they would like, I think thats the truth in this. I have just had a mini-meeting with the foundation company and the frame company on site and we have decided that rather than padstones, they are going to shutter up the areas and fill them to beam top with C30 Concrete ...should be faster and we should then be able to start frame erecting on Monday (fingers crossed)
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Problem is ...this has got me worrying about all sorts of stuff (see pics) 1. Wont the beams need to be cut down for the chimney bottom course ? 2. should the waste pipe be in a "bed" of something 3. All the beams are used ..but there appears to be large "gaps" is this normal 4. Along the edges seem to be "open" ...Should these have kickers in? and if so won't it be hard to slide them in later ....regarding mortar ? 5. some edges look uneven and blocks stick out more than others ...I was told the excess could be "cut off later" but wont that just loosen them again 6. I know its all under the ground ...but do you think that finish is a little ....scabby ..or am i being picky
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I was told it was 7.2 .... but i found the Delivery Note stuffed into the plastic pallet wrap ...they are Thermalite 3.6 300mm
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Well after 2 days (BH weekend as well!) of emails bouncing back and forth..between Architects, Frame Erector and groundworker ....they finally gave in and said ..No a SINGLE 3.6N Aircrete block is NOT considered a suitable Padstone. First they said they would "double up" (2 x 3.6 side by side) and then we fought back and they said they COULD make shutters and fill with concrete, handmix style ....and finally said OK, we can have precast padstones ....if we INSIST ?!?! :O But this came with a warning ....I have been told this will FURTHER delay the frame erection as our SLOT will slip and that they believe that a precast padstone cannot be "drilled" ... anyone know if that is true ?
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to be fair , i asked that and they said they "always did them like this" and they are the main contractor for Potton ..I mean when you have 4 guys all telling you its's fine ...you feel a bit stupid pushing the point
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there is 1m of foundation concrete under the block Peter.
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the problem is around here there is SOOO much building going on ..its unreal, i have heard mention of 650-700 per thousand ! ... its like Auf Wiedersein pet all over again LOL Not wanting to drift too far off topic though .....but i just had a little suprise. I went tout to site, before they tidied for the day and I was looking for where the "padstones"? are going ...these are under the beams to support the BIG wooden posts that basically hold the house up. Now on the plans they look quite substantial ...sort of 500x500 set on the concrete footing But i asked the lads what were those trench blocks (singles) underneath the beam ...and they said thats pad-stones where the FEET of the timber-frame go/rest Am i being anal here or are they a little "under-engineered" ..I mean these trench blocks are really crumbly too
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well they have already approved the ones she wants Peter...I was hoping that I could find a close match. ..same but different brand....but alas...not yet. ..but I think I need to source harder the original brick
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thanks . not sure what thats translates to in terms of per 1000 exactly but it sounds a lot cheaper than 10k for 6000 bricks
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Well i have spoke to a few that are ...and want the work But I am getting prices in excess of £10k for labour ONLY its 6,000 bricks I know ....still...... online estimates say that is too high ....but i know the real world can differ (sigh)
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thanks peeps good ideas there i have asked them have they got enough .....as i hear others like TP and Jewson are waiting for stock Just out of curiousity ....I have had a quote from 3 different brickies What would you think is a fair price to lay about 6,000 bricks (and build a fireplace) I am not sure if this is considered a "tricky" job just so you can see it ..(ignore the colours but)
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Well, I have tried to make sure i get my bricks on time ....The bricklayer is expecting to start as soon as the frame is up .....so in about 6 weeks (give or take) ...I was told originally that lead time on these bricks Wienberger Jasmine blend was 3-4 weeks and so rather than crowd a small site up ..i left them until now. Only to be told today that they have gone into shortage as they are "imported" and given a possible ? delivery date of mid November (groan) ....the only people holding stock in the UK have gone all "Dick Turpin" and want more that £2 a brick now . to me they are just like a pale reclaim (see image below of a house built with them) ...to my wife they are the bees knees however ... Has anyone seen anything like them ?
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I think you may be correct ....I Googled some info after i posted and apparently Gas under buildings is a major no-no. The thing I am thinking is 1. I want to save as much as i can and do the trenches and pipe laying on our own land 2. later get them to inspect and connect me up But I am troubled by the LONG run ...40metres from my meters to the boundary (on parents house front) Will this matter to them ? Can i just run some "ducts" and later they put the pipe through ? There is talk about gas only "allowed to turn on a "90 deg angle" ... how does this make pipe laying and later "threading" easy? I have tried reading all the PDF online...but there is so much conflicting info
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I have had some thoughts on the Gas/Elec/Water/Telecom connections as these too will need to go to the "other side" of the house ..see above pic. Wouldn't it be a lot easier if they run UNDER the beam and block ...or is this not allowed/conventional? Otherwide there is going to be even MORE pipes running around the place to get to the opening at the bottom
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Think you may be right about that rainwater might get another one planned for that corner coming into B-C Been thinking about sunroom also ...should thee be one on either side ?
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Well I was hoping to get them all in the utility room ....marked with arrow. So the meters will be at that side. I think the wife will want some gates though! ...sooner or later. So not sure how that will work. the house is about 10m from the entrance, and the entrance is 7m from the road (as it crosses a large grass verge (council land) hmmm by the way ..the actual driveway is at the top left..thats where the road access is
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Well with the trench blocks in its time to sort out my services and stuff for drainage and waste i basically COPIED the paths from an identical house but as I am doing the pipework and paths myself (as much as i can anyway) I wouldn't mind a bit of the usual good advice from the sages on here ! In your guys (or girls) honest opinion 1. does the waste and rainwater make sense ? ....do you think i need to add anymore feeds for RW at the top left? 2. The services (sadly) enter the house on the wrong side (see blue arrow) ...I have to get virtually EVERYTHING to the Blue cross as this trench carries it all 30m to the road Sewage, Water, Electric, Gas and Telecoms (too possibly) How would you lot do it ? ..as in what way? I have some pics below that could help you visualise it a) planned water paths b) roofscape ( the bit on the right is a single storey sunroom c) example of identical house built a few years ago any advice is appreciated
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Well, to be honest ..it doesn't get me down ...its just STRANGE. And I AM doing everything I am asked by Authorities ....so .. I dont think the lads like it on site ....LOL un-nerving
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For those that know about my aggro with a neighbour across the rd (the one that wanted to buy our land to build on, but we wouldn't sell it and then when we put in planning application wrote an 8 page letter objecting and tried to get neighbours to do the same ) ...yeah him! Well anyway ...have been working on site for a few weeks, and the beam and block is about to come in and a "Highways Official" turns up and says he has been "told" we are making an illegal access (sigh) Well we have already MADE it it has been dug out and hardcored !! I explained that when we applied for PP, and asked the council about the 278, we were advised by Traffic and Planning that (as they had now ADOPTED it) we were to a) mark the area on the plans (even though it wasn't ours, so it gets done a t the same time) b) fill in something called a "FORM A" ...which is a one page thingy with details of the work on and send a copy of BOTH the application and this form to the Highways Department at the same time we submitted our planning this was in September last year. We can all guess who is behind this malicious complaining, as the ground-workers have told me that they have been "filmed" from a window ....no I am serious! Does anyone have any advice ,please
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Its all Wood but we have decided that as there are only 2 materials 1. the PVC windows and doors which ARE Chartwell green. 2. and the outside woodwork, beams and gutter backs etc ....we would do these in a Dulux Weathershield CLOSE match mix I am hoping different materials and stuff wont show a HUGE variance
