Tin Soldier

quick question mdpe fittings, should I be adding anything into the threads/connections such as ptfe tape?

Thanks for the advice guys, yes I'll leave the pressure switch at the bottom and set appropriately I don't really mind if 32mm is overkill... I just wanted to know I wasn't causing issues using it.

Sorry Nick I was really inaccurate in what I typed I meant to say I had to take the door off and kick it through.. not that I would hate too Its in now waiting to be hooked up

Thanks for all the advice some more questions currently, at the lower pump house the mdpe is 32mm that comes out of the borehole pump, before being throttled down to 22mm polyplumb that is then connected to the (I'm guessing) 1" copper pipe that runs up the field to the upper pump house, it is then restricted again to 1/2" copper under the track to the house.. The order of things at the lower pump house are - hopefully you can follow this. lower pumphouse - Borehole pump output (32mm mdpe) > Pressure switch (on pipework) > 100l accumulator tee > 5 micron wound filter non jumbo > Activated carbon filter> 1" copper pipe > upper pump house> 1/2" copper pipe > House I want to keep things as simple as possible- could I leave the pressure switch down at the lower pump house and have the pressure vessel at the upper pumphouse, or do they have to be near one another? the reason I ask is the lower pump house has some lovely wiring already in place, and disconnecting the old and replacing with new pressure switch (supplied by JSHarris) would be a doddle. I would like to continue 32mdpe all the way to the house if possible - is there a reason I cannot, should I use 25mm? The order would then be lower pumphouse - Borehole pump output (32mm mdpe) > New Pressure switch (on pipework) > upper pumphouse (via new 32mm mdpe) > 300l accumulator tee > 5 micron Jumbo pleated filter> Activated carbon filter> House via 32mm mdpe any thoughts? as an aside, these pressure vessels are chunky - I hate to take the door off and kick the thing through the doorframe to get it in... 500lite must be huge! thanks Scott

Thanks Gents I've ordered a jumbo 20 incher along with filters, some granulated carbon (that's whats in the glass fibre tank) and a 300 litre expansion vessel. I can prep the upper pump house and get everything hooked up, prior to actually removing anything from lower.I can plumb everything up as you've both suggested unfortunately the electronic pressure controller you recommended (JSHarris) is no longer in stock so I'm on the hunt for an alternative. the 100 litre expansion vessel may well be used, but I'll be moving it from its lower location to the upper pumphouse... Saves me negotiating through a field full of cows and calfs in the summer months to check on the filters etc. That was the lower pump house will only contain the electrics for the borehole pump and everything else will be up top on the same level as the house.

Excellent reply as always, and just what I was needing. thanks very much. I am about to strip out redundant equipment from the upper pumphouse to make way for everything to be shifted and lay a better floor. There would be room for 2x300 litre and I'll make sure the layout allows, but I'm going to try for a single 300 litre and see how I get on. Whilst I'm at it I'll be installing a jumbo 20" filter I'll be migrating everything as you suggest. just out of interest, if you have a power cut, do you have a backup water supply/ generator to ensure water is still available?

JSHarris A Couple of questions when you get the chance, before I get started. I've looked into 500 litre expansion vessels, and they are too wide to fit through my upper pumphouse doorway, and it would be too difficult to modify to get it in, so I'd be looking to drop down to the 300 litre option. You mentioned you have two 300 litre expansion vessels fitted in parallel. Is this difficult to do, or as easy as it sounds? have you any pics? I've had a look through your blog but not found what I was after. Obviously I'm nervous about cutting off water supply to my house whilst I carry out testing, so here's a possibly stupid question. What is getting the water up from the borehole, all the way up the hill to my house. Is it the flow/pressure created by the borehole pump itself, or the 100 litre expansion vessel, or a combination. The reason I ask is that if I move the 100 litre expansion vessel, or bypass it, I'm not sure if the borehole pump would be powerful enough on its own to get the water up to the migrated expansion vessel. A follow on from this would be to ask whether having an expansion vessel at lower pump house (say the 100 litre existing one) and an expansion vessel/The filters at the upper pumphouse is a valid set up, would it cause any additional problems? Thanks Scott

Definite uniform size slates my structural engineer provided construction notes of how to do everything and it states Osb sarking with battens if filing and 22x150 sarking if slating. i have wondered why I would sark an already uniform structure like a sips panel, a question for the sips company I guess, now that I’m doing the roofing myself..

Hi @Stones it is A sips panelled roof I’m putting In was it sarked with white wood then battened or just battened directly onto breather membrane over the sips panel itself?

Geez, what a response. Though I'm beginning to see a pattern here. I ask, can I do....x, and everyone says yes of course I'm laying the insulation and underfloor heating in the slab in January, panels go up in march. Thanks ladies and gents. I'm almost 100% on it- slightly confused by a few things, which I'll no doubt work out.. Anything I can find on Scottish roofing refers to nailing straight to softwood sarking, without any battens. Is this true? I'm happy to do it but none of the videos I have found describe this, they are all about batten gauge etc. any recommendations on cheap/acceptable quality Spanish slate?

Fine with heights nailgun for sarking only ....

So here’s the question can I slate a large roof circa 200m2 by myself with no previous experience at all. got myself some good tools, a nail gun and the willingness to save money. would need to do the sarking. lead work fit two roof windows and thousands of slates is it possible or is it folly?

Roger that Peter.. I should have known to ask on here first

as much as I'm slightly embarrassed by the simplicity of this and just how long I looked for an answer for the weekend - I found some fancy helical fixings for stonework, I like woodscrews, they're nice and cheap and quick

woodscrews woodscrews you say.. well that is pleasant to hear Would that make a robust enough makeup to hold kitchen cabinetry etc? a woodscrew through 25mm batten 25mm of insulation, and then 15mm of OSB board? Happy to change to 400 centres but I'm worried stuff will pull off the walls ok I only have two upper cabinets and a mantel/extractor planned.

Yes it is lined internally. I probably should have said why The planning for our house extension has taken a rather long time, during which a couple of things have happened. 1. The insulation requirements have gone up between planning, and building regs sign off 2. Kingspantek SIP system prices have increased significantly for various reasons Kingspan Tek (and their partner) are willing to honour a quote we got from them over two years ago, but any change will bring us into a requote and the new prices. The new prices add on circa 8k to the cost, as such I opted to internally insulate myself as it will be significantly cheaper - though more hassle

Hi there, I'm erecting a SIPS extension in March, and as part of the building regs I need to install a minium (additional) 20mm of insulation to the internal walls, and 40mm to the Ceilings. Looking at the details now I've noticed that the Architect has recommended this is installed as a continuous layer and battened over, rather than what I had figured I would do. I thought it was, batten out the wall at 60cm centres, and cut insulation to fit in between. are there some magical fixings that can penetrate through a batten and hole PIR insulation hard against a SIPS panel?

It’s really about design, running myself in circles trying to figure out how to plumb it up... was hoping to speak to a plumber face to face and see what his thoughts were... given long runs etc

I’ve got a local plumber coming round on Tuesday to take a look at the job, any tips on how to assess him/ what I should ask? still not convinced I can’t do it myself but I’ll need help with the boiler/thermal store at the very least

Also JS I noticed last night the mounting bracket for the existing filter is broken, so perfect excuse to invest in a jumbo Thanks

Hi Nick et Al Attached is a picture of the house extension (and existing house) - I've stripped off some of the text to try and make it easier to read The old house is on the left with the thick walls. .there is a new bathroom going in though (doesn't currently exist but is drawn) I've documented on there Proposed New boiler location Proposed Thermal Store Location Proposed UFH Manifold Location Proposed HW Manifold Location and location of the existing HW and Radiator Connections (where the existing boiler is) There are new water connections to be run to the following rooms (as per drawing) Shower Room Ensuite Family Area Woodburner Kitchen Bathroom Cheers Scott

Disappointed that manifold is maybe not the way as it seemed straightforward for me to do i don’t quite follow what you’ve said nick are you suggesting a couple of well insulated 22m legs headed to a manifold closer to the action? ill look into hr this evening as I have not a scooby what it is I’ve been down to have a look at the lower pumphouse i was wrong, there seems to be a vertical pressure vessel set at 4 bar the horizontal vessel is the old pump for the well, no longer attached attached are some pics definitely a submersible pump it’s a lowara 1gsl05 https://www.waterpartsdirect.com/product/4-lowara-pumps-1gsl05-borehole-pump/?c=b121d766c7b9

JS Many many thanks for such a detailed response, honestly I cannot believe the help you and others give on this forum I'm fairly sure I have a submersible pump of Italian origin. not sure on depth or power or if theres a safety rope. It was installed circa 8 years ago be the previous occupants of the house, at great expense, by the local specialists (filpump), so I would hope its a good job. I am liking the idea of installing a pressure vessel in the pump house level with the house. Are you suggesting replacing the existing (say 100l) pressure vessel at the bottom of the field with a bigger version up the hill, or adding in an additional pressure vessel? I'm definitely venturing down there this evening to take not of everything and also see if I can dig out any information on the pump itself etc thanks scott

Hi JS Well the pump house is exactly 10metres below the house level The borehole, I have been told, is 55m deep within the pump house there is a horizontal vessel that must be a pressure vessel now that I think about it When you turn on the borehole pump down there, I believe it builds the pressure in there before releasing. I never really knew what was going on in but now it makes sense, it then runs through carbon media tank, a paper filter housing and up the hill.

Well that's an interesting question re borehole limit Since we moved into the house we've had the borehole and its various filters serviced by a 'professional' twice, the first time there was noticeable increase in pressure, the second time a noticeable decrease. It's completely fine to live with at the moment, as the hot water we get from our combi boiler is not exactly rapid and we knew things were changing out. I've going to venture down to my pumphouse (its circa 150m from the house (downhill), next to the old well and have a close look at the goings on in there and see if there is something I can twiddle. This runs uphill to another pumphouse (which I guess used to pump from the well) where there was once a cold water tank stored, under the track and into my house. Is this the kind of thing we're talking about? http://www.hot-water-cylinders.com/Zilmet-Ultra-Pro-Expansion-Vessel-With-Interchangeable-Membrane--500-Litre_p_5885.html