albert

no plus vat . it doesn't sound like rhi worth the hassle.

Todays prices FYI ::Samsung 19Kw ASHP with Unvented HW Cylinder and components £9177 against Grant Vortex 26/36 Oil System Gledhill 300ltr tank etc £3500. ex VAT

Thanks for the advice. Wunda have priced the UFH at 3k for both floors that's half my plumbers merchant quote. The upstairs is £ 1300 I'm not sure of the cost of ASHP rads but I will look all this up maybe not a lot in it?. I would like to go to ASHP as I am sure its better for the environment I just don't know enough about it . My merchant also told me it can not be used to cool the house . I read here that it could is there a lot of additional cost evolved? I'm waiting for further quotes and I will look up the heat imput etc tonight.

OK great Thanks I will give them a call today

I am open to suggestions my quote was from NU heat the supply for the UFH was 6.5 K alone. I like the idea of air source but concerned about the electricity costs, I don't have PV at this stage. Is there a supplier I should be talking to direct?

I'm sure some of these question have been answered but as I'm now building my own house whilst running my business and helping with a bambino the valuable research time is suffering. !!! Apologies in advance I'm building a large open plan New build sap rated at 79-8o ish I'm on a very tight budget due to the size 300m2 . I plan to live here long term so want a decent system. Its a big house but we are only 3 so usage will mainly be in certain areas. I plan to zone the GF in 3 zones with UFH throughout. my question are: -My plumber is suggesting negligible cost differences between ASHP and an efficient oil set up and so far I am beginning to agree. -I have a large vaulted hall way and feel that heating upstairs will rarely be used so was thinking of using rads upstairs to be used as required rather than the UF I was planning . I think significant saving s could be made even if we used the ASHP rads. (saving in labour ,insulation and UFH materials) -The UFH is in a 150 slab , I'm amusing it will take longer to heat up and cool down but are there any other disadvantages. I am going to insulate edges of slab with 75 mm as i can cover that with the build up. - Is it possible to calculate the pipe spacing yourself for UFH, I was assuming that tight spacing say 100mm would give me a lower running temperature of the system. Thanks again A

Ok many thanks zip tie to mesh then.

Hi I have 150m2 GF of UFH to install and I' d like to install it in the slab (125mm ) (100 mm PIR below) I have seen pipes cable tied to mesh on commercial jobs and wondered if there were any pit falls. The UFH company are after crazy money to install. We have done it ourselves before but in flow screed and not to mesh. Any advice welcome. A

hi Roz see my post"building with own funds" in self build funding

Hi Patrick yes i am interested looks very good and 50 yr warranty. I have my own HGV lorry and I'm ready to order ASAP so happy to share haulage.

Hi Roz have you found a lender that will do this ? as I am having problems with lenders refusing to remortgaging on completion to pay back private or business debt or loan . I would be interested to know if your lender will do this.

Hi Patrick thanks for this , I have guys in Poland who were valued employees pre brexit so this is very interesting. Ill take a look and get back to you. A

Hi I am also doing a steel portal frame class q now . I am an experienced timber framer and builder and the design has been a head ache to say the least. If I was to start again I would drop the whole wall structure behind the steels by 100mm subject to the planners approval. I paid my SE a LOT to design the steel work required and there is a lot of steel to go in with our TF panels acting as infill essentially. (we are in a high wind and snow zone ) I intent to drop the whole building and prep the existing steels whilst the groundworks are being done. I am also breaking out the slab and renewing. It is important to remember the planners want a conversion but with so little structure it is difficult to think of it as one. I have also had issues with lenders on mortgaging this property to add to the complexity of the build.

Hi Nickw . I'm also a Mid Devoner and building a class Q so good luck and feel free to ask for advice or contacts. I may be able to help as we are builders and developers down here and my wife is house designer, 3d render, interior buyer etc. A great wealth of knowledge and experience on this site from people who really care and have passion for what they are building/have built.

Ok Thanks guys I have to use the original pad foundations for the frame and these are well below proposed dpc so I think i will just have to lap up to the steel.

Hi I am doing a class Q ( conversion of steel portal frame building to residential) and I am looking for advice on achieving a suitable DPC detail where the steel penetrates the DPC DPM at slab level. from my research so far it look as if commercial buildings just lap a DPC or tanking system up to the steel but wondered if anyone has experience in this area. Id like better solution as capillary action will surely let dame rise up the steel. Any thoughts appreciated. G

Yes I've tried that method I have rang and followed up with translated email but nothing. I think ill have to get a flight over buy it and then collect it when its in stock.

Hi I am looking to use a product from Bacacier called Landrybac on my roof . I had a good price from them when i was over in the summer but my french is not good and I want to buy from a merchant near a ferry port but not finding it easy to communicate. Has anyone purchased materials in the EU and are there any other items worth buying at better prices while I am there with my HGV. I know it will be hassle but I'm looking for a softer roof than standing seem /Tata urban and I know the french have use this product in mountains for years so it should be good in the snow and wind here. it is also much cheaper!! I have my own truck and would probably be back hauling to keep costs down. Bacacier are a big company but no contacts in the UK yet. Any advice would be great. A

Wow.. some great ideas . Thanks everyone.

I have asked my electrician for a master light switch by the front and back door that shuts down all lighting apart from the external lights. My idea is when all the light are left on I just hit one switch to turn them off when we leave the house. Simple to wire. Does anyone have any other ideas that would be useful to incorporate in to a design? My wife is insisting that we are also having 2 dishwashers side by side, not sure on that one. We live on a farm so dust is always a problem especially on skirting boards I'm thinking a tapered or flush skirting board would be better. I have ruled out a laundry shoot and built in hoover points, but I am sure there are other simple ideas out there that make life easier and or more environmentally friendly.

the other opting is to trim down your flashing kits or use a thinner but better product where youve not got the desired allowance from key lite. I would find a solution other than to strip and refelt batten ideally.

Hi i would suggest that all the openings will be incorrect so adding a spacer as shown to all openings and making a cover strip / flashing to fit would be my first solution. You cant really cut the double or sistered rafter. cutting out hangers and removing square twists will leave a mess and most likely a hole in the membrane. You could use the laminated system but this is a large span with a decent load so it would need to be calculate and approved by your SE. They may be happy for you to shorten your trimmers by 50 mm and sister a rafter up butt jointed glued and bolted but would be better to use 2 x 25mm ply or graded timber substantially lapped and jointed. I would say a good roofer will sort it externally with just packing from inside if the veluxes can be spaced equally.

5mm ply soffit can sag if not supported properly, and yes if it is sagging it will look v bad. If using a ply go to 9 or 12mm for a better finish.

The hitachi is OK.. it is cheap and looks and handles very well, but its not tough or up to contact work. We run mostly air and a few paslodes . I bought a hitachi as it was on offer and it was great i nearly bought another until things started breaking and it in went in to be fixed 3 times. Its only fired maybe 5000 nails which is nothing and we look after our kit. I always prefer air 1st and 2nd fix even on site with a hose to drag round but thats just me. A decent small compressor £250 plus vat and air nailer £200 plus vat. will fire 100'000 nails with a drop of oil and next to no maintenance. We still have cordless nailers but they all have issues with dirt and cold weather etc etc , out of gas .flat battery,fans . Air hoses do have health and safety issues as a down side. Id say the Hatachi is an ok tool if you use it for self build ,clean it, box it and let no one else use it. treated with kid gloves it may survive a few bumps but thats it. Mine was a 2016 so they may have made changes

Thanks They are in a CIL area and submitted the forms with the application. I have all the details but this point form my consultant has confused me somewhat. "From my understanding of CIL is that an extension over 100 sq m attracts CIL. However a freehold owner who occupies the dwelling as their main residence can apply for an exemption (this must be done before any works start). I understand that the potential liability for CIL can be passed to any new owner (following completion of the correct forms). I assume that a new owner could apply for the exemption if the work hadn’t started. If the work starts before a sale, under an exemption applied for by the current owners, then from what I gather from the guidance notes on CIL (attached) this doesn’t result in a disqualifying event from exemption as long as the whole dwelling is sold as one. I would strongly suggest speaking to the Council regarding queries on CIL, as it is still a relatively new process, " I will do some further reading. Thanks again.