WWilts

Natural slate required. Can try to have planner approve natural for the 22.5 degrees and interlocking for the 19. Does Building Control in England allow slate hooks to be driven directly into sarking boards (covered by breathable membrane)? Or is it necessary to have counterbattens & battens?

Slate roof low pitch, located nr boundary of moderate and severe exposure zones. Mostly 19 degrees, one elevation 22.5 degrees Lots of hips. Roof trusses. Question: A) Fix slates to sarking board (over breathable watertight membrane) OR B) OSB3 + membrane + counter battens + battens? Also, hook fixing OR nail fixing. Single layer of membrane or double layer?

Starting to look for utility connection providers. Wiltshire new build. Site is back garden of our house. Drawing shows public highway at left. New build at right Anyone had good experiences with any firm that connects one or more utilities? Bad experiences? What advice would you give? Hoping to dig one trench for all utilites, and use it for foul drainage as well. One multi-utility firm said they do only multi-house developments, but that it would be cheaper for a single dwelling build to go to individual services.

Yes, probably a good idea to lay mats on top

Thanks Epsilon. Set me reading. The current grass drive is reinforced enough to take 8 tonnes per axle. An articulated lorry with 6 axles & max weight 44 tonnes should be ok driving over it. Something on top might well be needed to prevent diggers/trackers from shredding it all. The grass has grown nicely enmeshed with the grid, but probably not enough to withstand a heavy digger.

Not understood

Site access at left. Public highway

Pic shows host dwelling at left, new build at right. Not broken ground yet. Eventual driveway will be reinforced grass (for various reasons incl planning). A reinforced grass driveway is already in place. Reinforced grass does not require a deep sub base for cars. Problem: heavy lorries/a crane (for roof trusses) probably need something more substantial to drive on. What would you do? Options considered so far: 1) Leave the reinforced grass in place and hire heavy duty mats to sit on it for the build duration 2) Pull up the reinforced grass, put in hardcore, create hard driveway for lorries. Later restore reinforced grass over the hard core. Reinforced grass installation took a day's work from a 3 person team. Materials price £1k approx for 20m. One quote so far for heavy duty mat is £1700 for first wk, then £300/wk (x 14 wks total) - £5600 excl VAT One builder allowed provisional £12,000 for creating works access driveway with hardcore Eventually, some form of hardcore probably needed under permanent reinforced grass driveway, but sufficient for cars/ambulances at worst. Not heavy lorries. Feeling uncertain about what to do.

block plan with drainage. Any obvious flaws?

5m from house SW corner to pumping chamber Any obvious flaws?

Thanks, all. Was relying on stuff like this: https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/5.3/p261---tg-5.3---y-junctions_v1.pdf Rodding eye at one end, IC at other. One soil vent at east side. Air admittance valves in every bathroom/WC. Pumping chamber situated 5m from dwelling. Because discharge from pumping chamber would go under a drive, cast iron 100DN (instead of the black MDPE 90mm suggested earlier). Might that work, despite the concerns expressed?

Is this foul drainage ok?

Thanks. Did the roof truss supplier include the I Beam as part of the truss, or did you add I Beams between the roof trusses?

Attic height too low for habitable room, but interested in having storage space there without overburdening roof truss beams. Any suggestions?

Interested in knowing how deep the financial hole might be for unforeseen variations. And for inflation in materials cost. Just to be well informed so that life hopefully becomes easier for both sides.

Anyone tried constructionrates dot co uk? Any good? Any serious drawbacks?

Noted. What they need they will get. No question. The decisions/options are about how to get it from the new dwelling to the existing manhole near the public highway. Once our preferred option is clear, the conversation with them can continue. They want our foul drainage to go south (up an incline) instead of north.

3 to 5 m depth through the year

Right from planning stage onwards. Trying to sort out preferred options at our end before next stage in the conversation with them. How about Pumping chamber to Relatively elevated insp chamber at NW corner of host dwelling to Slightly lower insp chamber at SW corner of host dwelling to Private manhole (appears to be relatively deep detachment chamber with vent pipe out of ground) nr public highway

To be decided

Yes, this has been the front-running option. Longer distance and needs to cut across front garden of host dwelling, hence exploring whether east side is feasible. Presumably inverts for west side need not be 600mm below ground. Would you pump to near NW corner of host dwelling and then rely on gravity for the rest of the way to the manhole nr the public highway?

Schematic diagram attached. How to get the foul drainage of new dwelling N to the existing drainage without disturbing the tree? Under or over the roots? Trying to picture over the roots, along the Eastern boundary. MDPE on stilts? Something else?

Challenge is posed by the drain from the pumping chamber of new dwelling to the existing drain of the host dwelling. Part of the root protection zone intervenes. Routing the foul drainage from the new dwelling either under or over the root protection zone might work. But how exactly?

New dwelling in rear garden of host dwelling. Land slopes down towards rear. Foul drain to go from pumping chamber of new dwelling to existing drain of host dwelling. Problem: root protection zone of a tree enroute. Any suggestions for how to cross the root protection zone above ground? Height difference about 1.5m. Probably less if invert of existing drain is the reference point.

2.4m wide opening. Nice view to garden. Torn between bifold doors (family think they look stunning) or French doors U value 1.4 suffices for SAP pass, so it's down to other factors including cost. What do folks think? What are the pros/cons? And if bifold doors, which make is known to work well?