WWilts

Double glazed Underfloor heating downstairs & in bathrooms upstairs. Radiators upstairs

What would you do? (Jargon used here, but pls don't assume I understand it or know all about these matters) SAP fail mainly due to walls being 0.27 Architect design for cavity walls: Block inner 100mm Celcon Jumbo blok hi strength with thin joint mortar Dritherm 37 insulation 100mm Brick outer 100mm (reconst stone on front elevation) Windows & door double glazed. 2 rooflights, one west facing in entrance porch. Other north facing in attic, mainly to allow light to storage space & allow ventilation/air changes on hot days. SAP consultant suggested increase loft insulation from 300 to 400mm, and use Megaflo cylinder OR combi for hot water. Then if air test set to 4.0, can pass without changing walls What would you do? Context: We are likely to have to move in a few yrs, so cost-effectiveness over a 5 yr horizon is important to us. Both installation and running costs over 5 years. Expense welcome only if it will boost the eventual selling price. Idea so far: Better walls (if planner will permit render, then cavity wall outer leaf Celcon Jumbo blok Solar grade outer leaf with thin joint mortar + monocouche render) Might ease the pressure on air test / boiler spec / thickness of attic insulation (insulation welcome, but freedom to stay with 300mm insulation in parts of attic also desired) You might well spot options to which we are blind

For thin joint blockwork external leaf + render Little or no knowledge about render & options Wondering whether to go for Silicone thin coat Monocouche Other Probably have to move out in a few years, so don't want to go over the top on costs.

Not competent to comment on design or your preferences. But our experience with a "difficult" planner was that refusal & appeal worked well. Planners are only trying to guess what an Appeals Inspector might find, and your guess (or your designer's guess) can be as well informed as the Planner's. Appeals Inspectors are only trying to follow case precedents, especially from the courts. Planning consultants sometimes agree to hourly fees. Between your designers and a planning consultant with a high success rate at appeal, you can probably prevail at this application stage with something you really like. If not, refusal and appeal need not hold any terrors. Even the prospect of an appeal sometimes encourages the Planner to take a more benign view. If it goes to refusal and appeal, then indeed submitting a backup scheme more in line with the Planner's preference could work.

Thanks @nod Did not know this. Is wool the only remaining option? Earthwool DriTherm Cavity Slabs: that's in the design. Might it work with thin joint blockwork?

Structural design so far has been traditional inner block + full fill cavity + outer brick (cast stone for front elevation only) Came across thin joint blockwork + monocouche render. Very tempting. Plentiful supply if I understood right. Shorter time to watertight. Are there serious downsides to the blockwork & render option?

Ancient private drain and manhole there. So option 1 would have the drain running along the east boundary to join the main sewer directly.

Yes, that is intended Won't both options require similar agreements with the host dwelling (us)?

Alternative routes for drainage. My layperson ideas. Which would you prefer? 1 or 2? Why?

It's the design stage that troubles me. Currently being left for later by architect. I am not comfortable with that. Even alternatives would seem preferable to no design at all. For pricing by potential main contractor, and for Building Regs. I should know all this, but what is the alternative please? Switch outside the door? No views here, genuine complete ignorance. Hence hunger for alternatives to problem situations. Will ask architect Tks, will ask architect No drawing at all, currently. This is my problem Architect has had them done before, I am told, using builders and private Bldg Inspectors he regularly works with. But I am open to alternatives. Architect certificate might not suffice for potential buyers if we have to move in a few years (as probable). Inclined to pay for structural warranty in addition. Another whole topic though. I like that idea. We had innumerable iterations within the family and had to enforce a design freeze at some point to allow drawings to progress Great idea first floor or ground floor? Sorry to be unfamiliar with some of the terminology Thanks. Any recommendations for such a M&E designer pls, anyone? Recommendation for drainage design (ground works, routing) is what I really need. See alternative routes 1 and 2 in diagram, next post. Sage advice, thanks Thanks It's like going to a surgeon and them saying ask the nurse which operation you need. So the patient needs to google. I'm looking for which surgeon to pin down and make responsible. Paying for design, drawings too. But omissions trouble me Thanks, I might start sleeping better at night as the concerns get sorted out one by one

Open to any possibility. No strong views, given my ignorance. But main question is To which professional shoudl I entrust the drainage design (& specs for Building Regs)? Architect / engineer / other? Context on Building Regs permission: Likely Going for single building notice and private Building Control.

Which professional would you entrust with the design of foul drainage? (architect / engineer / other) Assume nobody in the family is in a position to self-design This is a self-build in our rear garden, located to the north of our house. The mains sewer is located nr south east corner of our front garden. Land slopes gently down to the rear (north), height difference in ground levels roughly 2 m from rear of new build to main road. Architect has drawn nearly all of the remaining Bldg Regs stuff but has so far avoided committing to any firm foul drainage plan. Saying builders will have good suggestions. So foul drainage is in limbo at present. I'd prefer to get builder (main contractor) quotes for a fully specified build. Grateful for any advice.

Thanks all

Very grateful for the wise advice from all.

Hardcore for the drive seems the way to go. By the way, does "track" mean just drive over, or thump the stuff in some way? Just curious about the term. Need to expand my vocabulary. Going to request proposals from builders soon, armed with quantity estimates.

Not familiar with "tracked". Does it mean driven over? Squashed? Sorry to be unfamiliar with terms.

Planning the demolition of an attached garage to allow access to rear plot new build. Brick side and rear, reconstituted stone front. Neither the bricks nor the stone seem to be of high quality. What are wise options for disposing of the material? All to the skip? Convert to hardcore and use? Hand salvage to reclaim? Other? Thanks

Beautiful home. Well done

Thanks for responses. 200 sqm new build, 2 floors. Live on site, back garden development. Family illnesses etc mean not enough time to do a good job on project management. Ideally hand over building regs drawings & quantity estimates / programme of works. Have a reasonably good contract in place. Get involved in cosmetic details such as kitchen/bathroom fittings, entrance surround. Receive keys of finished house. Take time away without scuppering the progress. Alternative route available architect (already know & like them) + builder/master contractor If someone knew of a good PM they could recommend, might take that route depending on the details.

West Wilts. Anybody know (of) a reliable Project Manager near these parts? Or tips on how to go about identifying candidates? Thanks

Just for context: Architect has done a few traditional style new builds (pic). He mentioned reconstituted stone for the front. Stone front + brick sides & rear used by many older houses in these parts.

Is brick always much cheaper (materials & labour) than (reconstituted) stone? Front elevation definitely reconst. stone. Public side elevation option brick or stone. Rear and other side definitely brick. Traditional style build. Some in the family think brick for all but front elevation, others think stone looks more upmarket for public elevations. What would you choose and why?

Thanks, easy for us to miss such points.

Thanks very much!

Thanks!