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“He also ordered a compensation payment of £107,397.37 to be paid to the claimant and ordered this would rise by £40 per day until the work has been done.” This is reporting the payment of compensation (ie damages) not a fine. The £40 a day is the quantification of daily damage, not a fine. The country courts do not impose fines for breaches of contracts.

I agree with this, save with the word “usually”. Really? Fined by whom? The carpet police? Leases are contracts, breach of which entitles the wronged party to claim damages from the counterparty, in this case the landlord. Unless the landlord has a contractual right to levy fines on the other tenant in the lease between the landlord and the other tenant, I cannot see where the power to fine would arise. Even if such a power existed, it is likely to be unenforceable as a penalty clause, given it bears no relationship to the landlord’s cost or to the wronged tenant‘s loss.

Well that would depend on the agreement. Not all lease agreements provide this. In fact, the ones I’ve seen talk about floors, not ceilings.

That's not a bad idea, although then I'd need to find a way to secure the pole, given wind etc. I was thinking of mounting it on a concrete fence post that is quite close to the tree. The pigeons often sit on the fence (literally, not figuratively) before attacking the tree.

I'm no legal man unfortunately. Not anymore anyway. Was struck off years ago. Google brings this up: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a798b42ed915d07d35b655a/ETSU_Full_copy__Searchable_.pdf

I've bought this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QQTRPXO?psc=1&smid=A08231583FSHJCK2HXZMY&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp Let's see if it does the trick. The next challenge will be how to mount it securely near enough to the tree I want to protect.

The price you've been quoted for that downstairs WC is slightly more than double what I paid in London. Either the person quoting has misunderstood the brief, or they are ripping you off.

I have a mate who can deadlift 160kg. Two of him?

Seriously considered this. Probably not lawful though.

Anyone had any success installing something to deter pigeons. We have a beautiful lilac tree that gets eaten by pigeons. I tried spraying it with a chemical deterrent but it didn’t do a great deal. Now considering something ultrasonic, came across this but looks too good to be true: https://pigeon-deterrent.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA3JCvBhA8EiwA4kujZs17JYzMjWHGlq2jPqA2rdOe-SrxKSOXftRsvt85bbQsQCzcAGuhMxoC45YQAvD_BwE

A very wise move If you can get the staff. I’ve really struggled to get an electrician after the one we had on most of the build moved back to Poland. And getting a good joinery has also been mission impossible. So getting them both on site within reasonable times has been very tricky. The joinery is coming back for two days of snagging with this week. Let’s see what they say about making the lighting bits and bobs more accessible…

I did foresee this issue and raised it with the joinery at the time of agreeing the final design and I was told I was over worrying and that hafele electronics are designed to be threaded through channels, they’ve done this hundreds of times before and the channels they will drill into the cabinetry can have cables threaded through them. So I accepted their view, because I’ve done this zero times before. I guess it’s possible the sparky was a bit rough in his handling of the switch cable, but it wouldn’t be such a problem if I had stood my ground at the time the design was finalised instead of allowing myself to be persuaded by “the experts”.

Yeah, it’s all really rather piss poor. There is actually a fairly straightforward solution, I think I can just add a small panel to conceal a new - ACCESSIBLE - channel for the switch wires. If the flickering continues to bug me, I will then be able to replace the switch quite easily. Oddly it’s now stopped flickering.

The way the joinery recommended they be installed, no they are not removable. Very strange. i didn’t query it at the time, but now i realise how stupid this is. The only way to change the push to break switches is to remove the whole wardrobe, which is quite a big job.

We had some very expensive joinery made. It went through umpteen design revisions before the final drawings were shown to the joinery company and they were asked to quote. Some of the cabinets have integrated lighting. The joinery company said they could router the channels for the LEDs but I would have to get my own electrician to install. I did. The electrician came to do the first fix, he explained to me which cables had to be fed through the joinery and I explained this to the joiners. When the joiners installed the joinery they forgot to feed two of the four push to break switches through a hole at the back of one of the cupboards. I complained to the joinery and was told “don’t worry, your electrician will have a way of fishing them out.” My electrician did fish them out, but in doing so he snapped the connectors/plugs. He said that this could be fixed by soldering the connectors back on. So he did, and now everything is more or less working… more or less because the LED strips activated by the bodge job connectors flicker a bit when they come on. When the cupboard door is open they are generally fine, it’s just doesn’t look as nice when the light comes on, as rather than a soft dim on, it flickers on rather unpredictably. It just pisses me off, that such an expensive bit of furniture has turned out this way because of a momentary lapse in concentration at the time the joinery was installed.

Thanks guys. Can’t figure out from the source how thick the metal is. It just says: “made from strong, thick, galvanised steel, which means it is rust-resistant”. The overall weight is 99kg and there is 9.23m^2 of material in total. Average density of galvanised steel is 7850kg per cubic metre. That means I have 99/7850 of a cubic meter of steel so thickness is about 1.4mm thick. Does that sound about right? Obviously calipers would be useful here, but I’m saving up for some hole cutting tools…

I have a decent, but fairly standard, DeWalt drill. I was going to buy this attachment so that I can drill a hole in a metal shed (to install a fan): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bi-Metal-Circular-cutting-Aluminium-Plywood/dp/B0C5S2SLNB/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33ZWDR8LTKVEX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ARPeSrNGQMPRNfjzQ9nT8LphOneBxp2bq77vCw3dNc09_eghTYXsvasiAUgoqvNZIFu6aPsLXKQQ1YeOPkiAFgNe3dYxf3f0-Nlf3FL7pXrjp3ElUq7r0i18Y6Cv-O6IBGyYsyqILTHtRZ8C2H4wTDvop6UaSS9o6pk0XcKDbiuXyBLFFjsDmbMt7IHB7xKmbgz5r1WS1uh902DLQGyFKtHAOwoGlU2tBaBHlxfIWQfZI6BicmWDDXsLcSKDS8WY9_fD3tHAQMYy3JjmNH2nNzAD8RbRTiaoj1tFVE29kaE.bDwPej6-V36XehdviYliDWy8assgN-rpKps7FC_sPjU&dib_tag=se&keywords=hole%2Bsaw%2B105mm&qid=1709312139&sprefix=hole%2Bsaw%2B105mm%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Will this go straight into my drill, or do I also need an arbor, which appears to be the case with competing products, such as this one from Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-multi-material-holesaw-102mm/42986#product_additional_details_container I'm totally clueless, this will be the biggest hole I have ever drilled. What does an arbor do?

correct. That's why it's worth investing in a PIR activated pump. Our pump has come on today, for example, 14 times. Each time it comes on it is set to turn off 36 seconds later. So it's been on for about 8 minutes total today. On a busier day of the week it might be 2 or 3 times that.

So are you saying there is not much difference, WC giving you a more even temperature at a small, negligible, saving? But what about the savings from converting to high temp output to low temp output?

Yes, I agree that it should be quite different. But the question is how much cheaper to run, if at all. Currently, although we only have high temp output from the boiler, which I know is inefficienct, the heating is only needed in bursts.

For those that have WC and UFH that is basically on all the time in winter during the day, circulating water in the UFH with a pretty low delta T, just wondering what the floor feels like underfoot. For example, in my house, the water temperature is higher than one would have in a constantly on system; I think I run mine at about 41C for tiled floors and 34C for wooden floors, so that the heating is quite responsive. This means when the heating has been off for several hours the floor cools down and feels cold, but once it's been on for 90 minutes or so it starts to feel warm, which is quite nice particularly on tiled floors. In a constantly on WC system: what is the average temperature of the water (i know this fluctuates depending on the weather temp, but what's the range?); and what does the floor (both tiled and engineered wood) feel like?

Yes, in a signed witness statement, deployed in litigation.

Yes, I agree. Also goes to the implied term point I just posted. Threaten a lawsuit!

Postscript: you can also make arguments about implied terms, such as it was implied that the surveyor would be competent and that the survey would be accurate. And that you were signing off on the basis of that implied term, which is such an obvious statement that it goes without saying.

Reading the t and c you posted, I’m now of a different view to what I was previously. You have signed and agreed to the “specification” on the survey. Although not a bulletproof argument, you can certainly argue that “specification” does not include dimensions. A dictionary is an important tool in contractual interpretation and the dictionary definition of specification is: “a detailed description of the design and materials used to make something” So that is all you have signed off on. Although they may try to argue another, broader definition, ie one that includes dimensions, such as: “an act of identifying something precisely or of stating a precise requirement” (which is another dictionary definition I found online, and such could arguably include definitions), there is an important principle of English contract law called the contra proferentum rule. This holds that where a contract has been drafted by a business and is signed by a consumer, without the consumer having the opportunity to negotiate the wording of the contract, then any ambiguity will be construed against the business. The public policy rationale behind this rule is that it is unfair to read the ambiguity in favour of the business who drafted it. It’s a strong consumer protection.