Andeh

Insulation seems very reasonable, your well into law of diminishing returns at that stage! Maybe eek the flood up a bit with UFH. Ours is 0.11 floor, 0.22 walls (shoulda done better but realised too late) and 0.14 roof. Air tightness either becomes a focused investment or DIY, you will need to be all over the trades at all times realistically. I used to drive past the house after work nearly everyday with expanding foam and sealant doing what I could around the edges (DIY). We then stuck a wood burner in with external vent and lots of sliding doors 🤪

Have dropped them a message, as I can't see a way if finding my account or checking direct debit etc. See how long they take to respond!

Wait until a dry day, masking tape and a generous bead of silicone along the joint? It's only a lean to...

Welp, I switched over to them earlier in the week, from octopus cosy so we will see! Got £250 credit as well, which I'll call octopus to find out what happens. First 3 days seem cheaper then octopus, but will need to wait and see.

Fine to do that with the cold. Don't do it with the hot circulation route. You need the circulation route within a couple of feet from the tap. Our main bathrooms are within 2ft and it works perfectly... Our kitchen is a out 10ft and the hot water arrives by the time you've finished washing your hands. Still a great decision though, as without it we'd be 30m + away.

Can't help but think a stiff plug being pulled out is asking for Plaster cracks?

Put lights where you need them, not everywhere. Illumination levels should vary based on what you're doing. We did Leds over the counters (food prep) then hanging lights over the table and island (atmospheric). Lounge/study is atmospheric, you don't need operating theatre grade lighting. Terrible pics as camera over compensates the lights, but shows you what we did. Downlights ABOVE the counters so your body isn't casting a shower on the food you are preparing. Leds stepped out so not above the tall units, so the light is between you and the cupboard/fridge/oven. Hanging lights over island which is our default light (atmospheric) . Table downlights for eating when you down need 500 lumens over your head. This works very well. Leds everywhere just tells me your electrician decided the lighting arrangement, and priced per fitting.

So sockets utterly flush with the wall around them? Interesting.... Any images of what they could look like finished? We spent £1.50 ish on ours because our shit head of an electric recommended them be a use that's what he used in his house. As he wired his kitchen, likely with us paying for his materials....

As has been said. What's your daily kwh usage? If your floor has been cold for a few days whilst you've been figuring it out, it could talk a couple of days worth of heat to warm it up! If the pipes going into the floor are warm, and the pipes coming out if the floor are cool then the system is working fine and you need to give it more time. If all else fails hire a thermal camera and or use an IR Thermostat to have a look at what's going on.

If you want meaningful cooling, and you should, 100% split system aircon. Only way, the rest are compromised. We did across 5 rooms powered from 3 external units and love it. The world is only getting warmer, and with your solar panels mean it'll be free to run when you need it, so you can go nuts with it. Premium feature for the home and massively impactful to your comfort on hot nights and if WFH on hot days. Installation for me was the lowest point of out build due to original firm not joining (crimping) the joints on the longer run, but only being found after they'd gone bust (with our money) and after 2nd fix.... Not fun. But utterly worth it now!!

Do not forget insulation size on the pipes!! We had a nightmare of a job pulling 4 x AC pipes through together with the insulation on. 110mm duct was stupidly ambitious, but narrowly managed to make it work. Also bends disproportionately add to the resistance pulling things through.

How did you get on?

My worry is if I clamp the brass valve, and the middle section and nip it tight... What happens to the clamp with the white bit on it... Which I originally nipped up. It will likely rotate as well? This (white bit) is connected to a slight corner peice which itself is clamped onto the plastic hose which drops down via the subfloor to the ASHP. This joint is difficult to get to so disturbingly it would be an issue. Hence my concern, way to approach this. Fortunately I've got accident damage cover on my home insurance....

Nut on the right with the white bit is what I nipped up. The middle bit I think I braced off, but the more I think about it... I may have been clamping off the large brass drain valve bit furthest left in the picture. The weep is now on the thread between middle ring and this left brass drain valve.

So I've had a very slow leak for several months, losing probably 1-2bar a month during summer.... Triple that now that winters hit. The system is a 250sqm UFH system and 12kw ASHP. I'm my infinite wisdom I tried to nip the joint up this morning, sealing the original leaking joint (white tip on it) but now the neighbouring one just to the left of it is dripping. I'm not losing 2 bar a day via a slow drip. I'm now trying to debate my next steps. Calling out a plumber over the next couple weeks (peak season?) or trying it again... But I don't want to make the situation any worse. I'm tempted (!!) to just nip the left one up, bracing off the large drain valve (?)... But will this impact the original leak point (white tip on it). I had it all armaflexed up, and stripped it back....temp replaced some, hence so much black insulation everywhere! Any suggestions? Thanks

We're averaging about 19p on cosy, but I think because we cook during the high rate period generally! I'm strongly leaning towards tomato I must admit. Although I do like the octopus app and daily energy tracking.

I can still see them for what it's worth!

Yep, we're 18 months in ourselves! Interesting points to keep an eye on though.

Images show for me, albeit it I don't know enough to comment!

Also if anyone knows if you can check your daily usage/an app with Tomato... im a real data nerd!!

Just wanted to see if anyone has recently done a comparison between these two tariffs.... both offer very cheap periods balanced with more average priced periods. We have an ASHP and do struggle to keep usage within the Cosy periods, but Tomato's 1 - 6 for 5p is quite a potential saving I think. Standing rate is also cheaper, and no high prices at dinner time. Gut feeling has me strongly thinking Tomato will win out, but wanted to check if anyone else has looked into it?

That's really interesting, and could well be cheaper then octopus for ASHP usage... Esp in the winter!

Max output being my slab size, and for how cold it is from exiting a heat off period of 4-5 hours, meaning even with ashp at full chat for 'only' a few hours of octopus cosy period it can't get the flow temp up any higher then 30 degrees? Therefore the 5 deg increase is meaningless, ie.. Increasing top speed of a car stuck in traffic?

For what it's worth we are fairly lightly zoned, basically children's bedrooms vs master room and bathrooms vs living areas....again to try and force as much heat as possible into the small but tall children bedrooms. Morning and afternoon cosy everything is on until thermostats hit 22 degree limits (rare in this cold level temps), but the 10 to 12 is only children's bedroom is give them the extra helping hand.

Thanks very much! mine looks to be: Outdoor temp got water law: 15 degrees ........3.0 Water out temp for WL1 Heat (WL1 floor) 36 degrees..... 43degrees high target Water temp out for WL2 Heat (wl2-fcu) 36 degs....... 43 degrees However even boosting it by the 5 degrees as you suggested, after 3.5 hours of running my UFH temp is still only 29.2 degrees it is - 3.5 degrees outside. We have a very well Insulated property, but a few of the rooms have a small floor area but have high ceilings/Mezzanines. This means they do struggle to get warm when it gets very cold.... Just too little surface area. With the octopuses cosy tariffs I'm less worried at efficiency, vs hammering the electricity when it's only 11p during the cheap rates. Is there a reason I'm not seeing the 29degree water outlet temp getting to something warmer to really force the heat into these rooms? Was hoping the +5degrees would do this!