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Jimbo37

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  1. Jimbo37
    Hi All Im having a bit of a time with the Trocal install guys, most of which we have resolved, but there is one or two things outstanding. I dont have time to explain our dealings yesterday, as Im pressed for time before they come in today - but I will in due course, under the heading of things to watch out for!! - the roof is ply deck with VCL, 140mm insulation and Sikaplan S 1.5 membrane - I have a 400x400 box, which risies 150mm (i think) above insulation for the stove flue, which will be flashed. Are the upstands supposed to be insulated? - Similar question regarding the rooflight, which has some insulation as part of the kit, mainly inside or within the structure of the kit - insulate the upstands on the outside? - Are the cracks between the insulation supposed to be foamed - Im especialy thinking of where the boards meet from opposite sides of the apex? I cannot find the official Sika/Trocal details for this membrane (Sikaplan S 1.5) - anyone got a link? Thanks - Im expecting them in shortly/today... TIA, Jimbo
  2. Jimbo37
    Yes, had a chat, for the benefit of others that may find it useful, in my own words - span is 4.5m - 600mm to be removed from one end - 1.6m to be spliced in, to give a min of 1m overlap - 4 x 12mm bolts staggered off centres, and double faces toothed plates/washers between Also, as it happens, an easier solution may be available, based on @Mr Punter comment - 12mm fibre board, mounted to on 25mm fibreboard spacer to give 25mm ventillation behind - to reduce the required clrearance by 50%, ie from 60mm to 30mm (but subject to the stove guy agreeing that I got this right) - so 125mm flue, with 175mm outer diameter plus 2x30mm - giving a total required space of 235mm - which should all fit between the 285mm joist space (and a bit to spare) Thanks all for your comments, tips and advice
  3. Jimbo37
    Not possible, coz Id be moving it a foot into the room, not along the wall. Positioned twoards the left of this pic - the white beam is for room wall above, and flue rund up in that corner of upstairs room
  4. Jimbo37
    Just the two last joists, all others @400mm Agreed, but I have to comply - peace of mind, insurance, eextreme situations, etc
  5. Jimbo37
    A related question, please - when is T600 required, as I see more frequent reference to T450?
  6. Jimbo37
    OK, now that sounds promising, and Ill check it out - I can get lots of fibre board
  7. Jimbo37
    Thanks @Mr Punter - would that need ventillation behind it? Would it address the regulation issue, or is it just a good workaround?
  8. Jimbo37
    Hi all. I seem to have snookered myself, but maybe (hopefully) there is a way around it... I have a stove planned for my living room, with a flue going straight up through the ceiling into the bedroom wardrobe space above, and on through the roof. Installer had planned on using Dinak DW or T600 flue, but... - 125mm flue outer diameter is 175mm - Receommended clearance between flue and combustibles (joists), 60mm - Space between joists (in first floor), 285mm So that suggests that my joists are 10mm too close for this to be compliant? - Can I solve this problem with a heat shield on one side (I think a heat shield needs 25mm circulation, but what are they and how thick are they?) - Any other flue system/brand that may squeeze in here? Related - is that 60mm clearance a manufacturer recommendation or a regulation? (The roof joists are wider spaced, so this problem just exists at first floor level) Thanks, James
  9. Jimbo37
    I'm trying to avoid a rework, and cant visit a new spec on him - but thanks for the suggestion. Intresting solution though.
  10. Jimbo37
    I just nipped up for a closer look & there are another couple of issues that veer slightly from spec, which are of no consequence, except they add to the condensation exposure of the end of the joist. (1) all joists project into the cavity by between 10 and 30 mm, and (2) the cavity tray is two courses (440mm) higher than it should, increasing the condensation area above the joist. Two sketches attached - the specification, and the as (nearly built) and my proposed mitigation - essentially to drape a DPC over the end of the joists (the blocks with the Xs are not yet built)- thoughts?
  11. Jimbo37
    Can I approximate your thinking - it is probably OK? @Bonner and @saveasteading
  12. Jimbo37
    Yes, that is my understanding. I suppose that the dpc just above helps with keeping weather wet away. On the other hand, I think it is a condensate point so the route/trickle out is a thing that will be used
  13. Jimbo37
    Yes, the cavity is filled with bead. That reference is out of shot
  14. Jimbo37
    Hi Self Builders A bit of a problem, that I'd like your thoughts on, please. Im building a flat/parpaet roof house with , which calls for preservative impregnation where the roof timbers enters the external walls (of cavity block walls). The builder placed the timbers today, and built blocks between the timbers and one row on top, but without the preservative, nor did he wrap them in DPC - there are 2 more rows of blocks to go to take it to the top of the parapet. Is this a serious omission, do I get a rework? Is there some other mitigations, other than a rebuild that I could ask for, that would suffice? Clearly, if it must be done, I'll ask for the preservative and rebuild - but I want to be reasonable, if there is another sufficient answer.
  15. Jimbo37
    Thanks @Temp it does/will go through wall. Im angling for 600mm, or less, if possible (but of course must comply and work)
  16. Jimbo37
    Hi all, I'm building a parapet/flat roof 2 storey house, with woodburner stove served by flue exiting through wall on ground floor. I cannot figure out how much higher than my (aluminium) parapet capping I need to take the flue. I just can't relate the regs to this configuration (no windows, ridges, neighbouring walls etc). Any help appreciated.
  17. Jimbo37
    Mmh, I thought I responded to this post, so if Im repeating myself... Thanks all - good points. As always, I really appreciate you taking the time to share your views. All good here.
  18. Jimbo37
    Thank you folks, appreciate your time and views.
  19. Jimbo37
  20. Jimbo37
    Hi all, a steer, please? I have had a chat with my builder, as I felt the cavity & ties were not clean enough. - He agreed that the ties should be cleaner, and was agreeable. - He felt that because there is a 150mm (min, but 175mm mostly) drop in the DPC from inner leaf to outer leaf, that it is OK to have a small amount. I told him that I had sent pictures to the (sick, but doing some work) architect for her view, and he said that she will say they should be clean, but that is simply not practical. Obviously, I pay her to keep standard up, but am mindful that the builder may have a point, on practicability - thoughts? To make my question more direct - is 25mm of droppings in a 150/175mm DPC OK, or do I need to insist on a clean? Likewise, I could just rock in, and demand my "rights", but I feel there is good value in keeping an amenable builder happy!
  21. Jimbo37
    Sorted - and went with the majority advice and put in the MJs. Thanks all
  22. Jimbo37
    Thanks @Gus Potter for all that - the stuff we dont even think of - advice above noted.
  23. Jimbo37
    Will do, thanks all - Ive come around to the idea after the initial groan
  24. Jimbo37
    Just so I follow your logic @markc - you think because the entire wall is sitting on the same (really big fundations, because we are on a brown-field that had a lot of fill), there is less chance of cracking, right? I really want you to be right, but Im mindful of @nod and @Mike comments too What is the expericnce of those who have built 13m without movement joint, if they are reading?
  25. Jimbo37
    Hi all, a steer, please... I am building a 2 story house 13m x 7.5m, cavity - both leaves are 100x215x440 block and external is sand and cement render. Structural Engineer has recommended a movement joint along the 13m stretches. The problem is I don't want to as I have no downpipes etc to hide it behind, and the whole design is minimal - would I be crazy to ignore the SE advice? Has anyone built 13m+ without movement joint?
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