matthyde83

They aren't cheap but I think have been great. Yet to see how much difference they make thermally but the must do! Great at door thresholds too. Another benefit we've seen is it stops the blocks soaking up water from the floors. They'd have been saturated with the amount of water we've had in there until the roof was on.

Sorry for delay. We got them from Ecomerchant

Nice - just been looking at them...

Do you mean Fakro? What about airtightness?

Hi all - do people have recommendations for roof windows in a more airtight build? I'm looking at various options for 6x 550x780. It seems that Velux, Fakro etc. have ventilation built in, which we obviously don't want...

Just ordered €2k of materials from Latzel... thanks all for the recommendations

I understand the skepticism. However I think it depends on the complexity, knowledge of the market, relationship with lenders etc. Ours is not the simplest case and I’ve found having a broker invaluable. Their fee in comparison to other things is tiny (at least the bit I am paying, obviously they get a fee from lender too) and so much work is done before they get anything. I’ve been talking to them for about 8 months about the financing and pretty sure all I paid was £400 until another £400 at offer.

Give Marc Gibbs from Mayflower Mortgage Brokers a call. I have found him amazing with self build options. Just about to complete on our self build mortgage (mid-build)

This looks great Gus and exactly what I need tbh. Someone interested in the job! We’re slowly working things out but I really need some SE input. For instance turning the trimmers designed by the SE into cranked beams because of the outside plate height and supporting the valleys on the large gable front and back as being a lower plate height means they need to finish about 300mm inside off the supporting wall. I’ve sent you a pm…

This is what I have...

Questions/solutions we (me and builder have) We've amended roof pitch to 40 degrees all round Cranked trimmers, can they pick up the hips and therefore remove the need for flitch plates Can we support the large valleys on cantilevered steels, they will end about 250mm off the inside of a supporting wall

Yup... HELP!

I can but only have A B C F as indicated on the plan, nothing across the width of the building which would be useful!

So challenges. Different pitches make the roof extremely difficult, especially given the style of the house really requires valley and bonnet tiles The beams indicated roof plan indicated doesn't work as the large gables eaves height is below that of the main roof so the valleys don't end on load bearing walls, they end in mid air The plate level is about 2.1m but ceiling height is 2.5m so we will have skeilings at the edge, so the trimmers effectively need to be cranked beams?

To provide some context - here are the plans... I have specified 45 degrees on the side, 37 degrees front to back Trimmers picking up the ridge of the 4 dormers Two steels across the centre picking up the valleys on the large dormers/gables Posts off of two spine walls picking up the main ridge Flitch plates in the hips

Can anyone recommend a SE to help with an efficient roof design? We are nearly at plate level and discovering all sorts of issues with the existing roof design and structural supporting of it. SE and architect are impossible to get hold of and don't really want to know. I feel like someone looking at it afresh (quickly) may be the best answer and tbh ultimately save money even though I'd be paying again.

I’m trying to work out what I want. Ha. As anyone I suppose, I want a good but inexpensive solution. Mutually exclusive probably. My SE is almost impossible to get a response from so anything requiring his input is out really. So standard timber, either as drawn or deeper? I’m trying to find a better solution than drawn with 200mm PIR on vaulted and 400mm rockwool in the loft elsewhere. Or is it just easier to leave it at that? My thoughts were to take the airtight layer into the loft. I’m hoping to have hot water cylinder and MVHR unit up there.

No not yet. We're about 4 weeks from starting it.

So a few challenges... My rafters are 150 @ 400 centres where I need 0.16 and 175 @ 400 centres where I actually need 0.11 (according to SAP calculation - which I could always go back to?) The slabs are still quite a bit more expensive than roll... I can get 300mm of roll for about £8 per metre. It's just supporting it. So one idea was OSB on the inside then can simply roll out on top?

Nope absolutely not. It’s working with the builder and carpenter and weighing up their suggestions also that’s all. Clearly we’re not fond of actis so a no go there! I was going to send another note on the above. I’ve contacted warmcel to find a provider and the build up they are recommending is concerning me on a cost basis. Smart ply propassiv inside, medite outside. Going to cost a fortune in labour and materials??

Nope, I can do. Investigating ways of achieving 0.16 (or better) for less £