revelation

I assumed it would be a fair bit cheaper, but if as you've suggested it may not be much cheaper at all. As if the difference in price is a few hundred pound I think I would prefer to go for skimming as it will add that extra layer of protection.

Others have said you will probably see some of the imperfections in the finish. If its likely to only be a small difference I may well go down the skimming route.

I can't really add to the weight, due to having to bring floor heights down we have had to use 150mm x 75mm timber. So i don't really want to add much more weight, and I have bought most of the aluminium spreader plates already. and we have decided to put insulation below too. (already discussed that in another thread. So you reckon its best to buy the non plastic film cabernek? and will non caber branded stuff do exactly the same job or do caber branded boards offer better quality?

Hi all We had a flat roof (with a parapet wall) constructed and some doorways for balconies, our original builders didn't account for the the roof build up for a thick layer of insulation in the warm roof. So for the balcony area to work we decided to reduce the insulation down to 50mm (and 25mm in a couple of places) for the warm roof. And though we will make up the rest below in the ceiling as we have around 25cmm of room, either with kingspan kooltherm or a layer of spray foam insulation. Does that sound okay, any potential problems with that?

We have taken our property back to brick to do some major renovation works. We are way over budget and we are getting closer to the plaster boarding stage. We know its not commonly done in the UK but is in America, where the plasterboards are fixed into place then the screws and joints are taped and filled. Then sanded down, then it is all painted. Are there any disadvantages to do this? as this is likely to save us a considerable amount of time and money.

Hi all I require some advice on the type of floor deck to use. We are having underfloor heating between our joists on the 1st floor and the loft. We are having our UFH on aluminium spreader plates so have been advised to put on 18mm deck then our 18mm engineered wood on top of that. There seems to be a big difference in pricing on the tongue and grove chipboard type floorings. I want to use whatever will work best with UFH. Our property is almost water tight, we're waiting for windows. Caberdek with a plastic protective layer seems to be the most expensive, is this worth the extra cost or should I go for the cheapest 18mm tongue and grove stuff without the protective layer? Any other recommendations would also be great.

Our issues is not increasing the thickness of the wall too much so if we are looking at just 50mm. With easily available e products, what would you recommend? The gyproc tri liner would have been ideal but I have checked online and it doesn't appear to be available.

I think I have settled on the 18mm caber and then the finished flooring ontop. In the joists I am thinking 50mm Kingspan (K12) and 50mm acoustic Rockwool, a few people have recommended acoustic, i didn't realise that it was so useful.

instead of the baffles, maybe to utilise the 50mm kingspan I could batten the sides of the joists put the 50mm kingspan board down and then use 50mm of acoustic Rockwool on top? (As you can tell I'm keen to make full use of any left over materials that I have rather than lose out)

I see, so that wouldn't make much of an overall difference? What of the acoustic vinyl mass was directly glued to the wall then we battened added the acoustic insulation and acoustic plasterboard?

We have had the chimneys taken out and have had new floor joists which only go 100mm into the other side and in a couple of rooms we have changed the directions of the joists entirely so that should eliminate joists issues from there entirely.

We have taken that into account, whatever solution we go for we will run it from top to bottom and between the joists (the house has been gutted, we have taken the floors up and all the plasterboard off too) I guess the main sounds I wanted to deal with would be the day to day noises that the kids will make or any loudness from TV/Music. We tend to have a lot of family around so it can get noisy.

Thank you for your response, the walls are solid between the houses, a doubled skinned brick wall. I didn't want to lose more than 50mm of space, the Gyproc Tri Liner would have worked well as that included the plaster board so we actually would lose less than 50mm in all. Wouldn't, the batten acoustic Rockwool and then soundproof plaster board be a similar solution. We obviously plan to fill in any gaps or little holes in the brickwork too.

Have I got my understanding of insulating wrong? I was under the impression that having some kingpan phenolic insulation below (about 50mm, we have a lot left over that were used in other places) would help make sure that all the would be directed above. I thought about using a standard rockwool too, but not the acoustic. Is the performance of acoustic rockwool in terms of sound reduction and heat insulation worth while compared to the heat insulation that the kingspanboards would give?

Hi all I am currently renovating my house and as we have gone back to brick I thought It would be a good idea to soundproof our party walls. Sound seems to travel fairly easily to the neighbours, we have two loud kids. I have been looking at sound proofing methods and was thinking of either using acoustic panel plaster boards something like https://www.noisestopsystems.co.uk/shop/wall-soundproofing/noisestop-acoustic-panel/ its expensive and will cost us around £1200 + labour to get installed. The alternative is to batten the walls and use 50mm of acoustic rockwall, then a layer of acoustic vinyl mass, then finally soundproofing plasterboard. This is cheaper in terms of materials but more expensive in terms of labour. What would you advise for the best results. We don't want to increase the wall thickness very much. Thank you

Thank you for that. It was very comprehensive. We will have a different manifold for the downstairs and the 1st floor/loft. Would 18mm Caber suffice as I am having 18mm wood on top? and in most of the areas I have 300mm joist spacing. I was planning on using PIR between the joists directly under the spreader plates, would that work well instead of the batts?

I am starting to lean towards putting it directly onto the joists. On the ground floor our UFH will be in screed with at least 100mm of insulation below which will work fine. I am looking to put about 50mm of kingpin between the joists of the GF/1st Floor and 1st Floor/2nd Floor.

Would the 18mm caber before the engineered floor add much time to warm up? Another issue that has come to mind if we went for the floor direct onto the joists would be where we have bathrooms that we plan to tile, they will need some kind of deck under so if we had to put 18mm caber and then maybe a decoupling membrane and then tiles we could end up with a bit of difference in the floor levels.

I am worried about long warm up times, do you have insulation directly under your pipes? Worst case scenario I would consider getting 21mm, ideally I would like to utilise what I have if it will work well with some kind of thinner deck board below.

Unfortunately I have already bought the 18mm engineered wood floor, I managed to get some walnut at a really good price last year. I didn't really think about this process at the time. My builders had said the 18mm could go straight onto the joists, but were concerned about where the joists may meet in the space between the joists. In most places we do have 300mm centres, we want the floors to feel really solid so unless its certain that it will work we are inclined to put something else down first then the flooring ontop.

Our joist spacing is either 300mm or 400mm on 75mm wide joist. So if we were going down the Caber/Egger route we would be going for 18mm and then the engineered flooring on top of that. From your experience will caber/egger allow for decent heat up times? Is there product that will work better for underfloor heating? Regards

Hi all, We are looking to install UFH between joists in our loft conversation and our first floor bedrooms. We were planning to run our pipes on aluminium spreader plates with insulation directly below them between the joists. I would like some advice on what is the best deck to put on top of the joists. The builders don't have any experience with UFH thats not in screed and have normally put caber-deck and then the final flooring when they have done normal (non UFH) floors. We have 18mm engineered tongue and groove wood flooring as our final floor finish. We would like a solution which is going to give the best\fastest heating up times. Thank you in advance.

Did you use K103 in the flat roof? Was the roof suitable for walking on?

Hi all I am looking to have a warm flat roof done. I have a fair amount of Kingspan K103 remaining from doing my floors. My flat roof is being made so it is suitable for walking on (we will be putting a floating Trex decking system on top). I was looking to use the Kingspan K103 for the roof, I spoke to Kingspan today to ask if it would be okay to do so, they said they cant say whether or not it is because it has only been tested for floors. I would assume it would be okay as if its suitable for walking on via a floor then they same would apply on a roof. Unless there is an issue as this type of board is not foil faced, I don't have very much experience with insulation as this is my first big project so any pointers would be appreciated. I also haven't decided what would be the best roof finish before putting down the composite decking on top, every roofer seems to give conflicting advice. Thanks in advance